Macerator or Manual Pump ?

[Blissopia]

My head currently drains into a holding tank or straight overboard. I would like to have the ability to pump out the holding tank myself (when offshore).
I understand how to correctly set up the plumbing but I'm torn between installing a macerator pump or a manual pump. Macerators don't seem to get favorable reviews when it comes to reliability and reliability is my #1 requirement.
What do you all think? Am I wrong about the reliability of macerators? Which way should I go?

[rockerdar]

We have macerators in both of our heads and have never had a problem in the six years we've had the boat. Ours are made by Jabsco.

[sailorboy1]

As far as reliability it's probably a wash between the 2 because blockage is the main problem either way. If a big manual pump like a Whale that is probably the most reliable. But really the macerator pump is pretty reliable overall.
Never have any problem with the macerator on my current boat, but never have any problem with the manual pump on the last pump.

[Sailmonkey]

go with an electric diaphram.....less prone to clogging than a rotating macerator, and better than pumping #2 for 20 minutes of an already short life

[Scott Berg]

Talk a look at the Sealand "T" pump. Its a bellows pimp that can make short work of a holding tank and is as bullet proof as an electric pump can be.

Disclaimer: We sell a range of pumps including these.

Scott

[peghall]

I second Seamonkey's and Scott's recommendation. An electric diaphragm pump can run dry for a LONG time (hour or more) without harm...so it combines the push-button convenience of a maccerator pump with the reliability of a manual diaphragm pump. They do cost a bit more than a macerator pump, but it only takes a few impeller replacements for a macerator to make up that difference. The SeaLand/Dometic T-Series pump by far the best. I had one on my own boat that was 11 years old when I sold the boat...still working fine. Don't know of many other things that I could say that about.

[Blissopia]

These are awesome responses. Thanks for all your help.

Dylan

[delmarrey]

I would go with the macerator. Had a diaphragm pump once and the rubber would absorb/transfer the smell into the holding space.

[Scott Berg]

Quick note: while there are indeed some diaphragm bilge pumps that aren't suited for solid waste the sealand pumps have a poly bellows and are odor free even after a decade. It's the same technology used in the excellent if expensive vacuflush heads with fewer duckbill valves

We've installed dozens with good results and I've been shipmates with mine for years and performance is great. They can also be fitted in series to make a lavac optionally electric


Scott

[peghall]

Fwiw, the SeaLand T-pump is identical to the S-Pump (Vacuflush vacuum pump) with two exceptions:

1. It's half the price of the of S-pump

2. it only needs one duckbill at each end--and the valve nipples are reversed threaded to prevent owners from replacing S-pumps with T-pumps. However, it's actually very easy to replace an S-Pump with a T-Pump that does need 4 duckfills if you have only a little more mechanical ability than is needed to turn a doorknob.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by peghall

Fwiw, the SeaLand T-pump is identical to the S-Pump (Vacuflush vacuum pump) with two exceptions:

1. It's half the price of the of S-pump

2. it only needs one duckbill at each end--and the valve nipples are reversed threaded to prevent owners from replacing S-pumps with T-pumps. However, it's actually very easy to replace an S-Pump with a T-Pump that does need 4 duckfills if you have only a little more mechanical ability than is needed to turn a doorknob.

Originally Posted by Scott Berg

Quick note: while there are indeed some diaphragm bilge pumps that aren't suited for solid waste the sealand pumps have a poly bellows and are odor free even after a decade. It's the same technology used in the excellent if expensive vacuflush heads with fewer duckbill valves

We've installed dozens with good results and I've been shipmates with mine for years and performance is great. They can also be fitted in series to make a lavac optionally electric

BTW these duck...whatever's are called a joker valve.

[peghall]

They're very similar to a joker valve and serve part of the function of a joker valve...however SeaLand calls 'em duckbill valves...so to avoid confusing folks who don't know that they're essentially the same thing as a joker valve, I call 'em duckbills too.

[Watercolor]

We had a Shannon 28 set up exactly like your system. If you're off shore you can pump straight overboard, by passing the tank. If you're on shore and pump into the tank, I'm assuming you're close to a pumpout. if you need to pump-out of the tank off shore, I'd go with the diaphragm pump. The ideal would be an electric pump with a manual override.

A simple option that we used on the Shannon, although a little clunky, was a manual diaphragm pump an a board with two hoses. When I had to I'd simply haul out the pump and hoses on deck, screw in the hose to the deck fitting and the other overboard. Simply pump. Clean out the hoses and store. Never had a problem with it working or smells. Again, it's a simple option.

[Blissopia]

I have considered and researched all of your suggestions have decided to go with the Sealand T Series pump.
Thanks again for all your help

Dylan