whoops... there goes the chain!

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

98.5% pure zinc epoxy paint in a can for a tenner.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-...-zinc_p1580764

Yeah, I've used the cold galvanizing spray (aforementioned chain that's seen better days). Not exactly the same as the real thing, but better than nothing I guess. Slows down the inevitable, but doesn't stop it.

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

They would have to be the dodgiest thing known to man IMHO.
I would not trust my dinghy to one, I kid you not.

Interesting, as I have a few more of those on board, connecting deck eye plates to double and triple blocks for the jib sheets.

You had a few coming apart under load?

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by hzcruiser

Interesting, as I have a few more of those on board, connecting deck eye plates to double and triple blocks for the jib sheets.

You had a few coming apart under load?

I have blown them up on other things not under much load.

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

I have blown them up on other things not under much load.

I guess, like everything, they come in different sizes and qualities.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by boat_alexandra

One time I accidentally dropped my anchor line... I used a weight followed by a squid lure a few feet behind on monofiliment fishing line. The squid lure pokes into the line and catches it. This seemed to work pretty well for nylon, and caught it near the end of the rope where it would have slipped off with a grapple.

I have managed to wrap my anchor line around sunken trees and boats several times. If the water is cold and has no visibility, I am not really excited to dive down and untangle it.

For chain I have been using a 1.5lb "grapple" anchor (sold at west marine for dingys), followed by a trip line, and float. It takes me a few tries to hook the chain, I think the grapple anchor isn't the best. I found that too shallow a scope 4:1 or more is not better, but 2:1 seemed to work better, and not sure why.

Is a small danforth better? What scope did you use? It must not be much or you would stop the dingy.

I think a better grapple is rebar welded together to form 4 or more hooks, and possibly sharpened. Less drag in the mud, and curved more than an anchor to hook the chain better... what do you think?

Sean, I used the Danforth copy because I had it close to hand, not because I thought it the best tool. A proper grapnel with 4 or more hooks would be better at grabbing the chain, less good at grabbing all the scallop and oyster shells that I collected and likely easier to tow, allowing better control of the dink and erhaps a bit more speed as well, increasing the area covered.

I used somewhere around 2:1 scope by estimated angle. How well it worked? Dunno... i may have dragged it across the chain several times without a hookup, no way to tell, but it eventually succeeded.

Jim

[Steve Bean]

Our 45-pound Danforth dragged through the mud in Annapolis Harbor enough to snag a short bit of chain attached to a 45-pound CQR, which we traded for a sail at Bacon & Associates. I don't know what the scope was but the Danforth earned its keep that day...

[estarzinger]

BTW . . . . with regards to how well 5200 does in this application . . . .I can say that every time I opened ours (over 20 years) it was 100% secure, I had to use a thin metal wedge to crack the 5200.

We used that solution because we did something that I dont think all that many other cruisers do. We reconfigured our chain when we switched cruising grounds. In some places (with coral or frequent stern ties) we used all our chain in bow, but most other places we kept 50m in bow and rest stowed in bilge over keel. So I needed the join's to be secure but removable without damaging them (I suppose I could have just always used new ones when I reconfigured because they are inexpensive, but the 5200 seemed to do the trick just fine).

So, in any case, I can say the 5200 solution worked perfectly fine and securely for us. But I would not describe that as sufficient statistical experience base to say categorically it is a good practice.

When you add in a spectra 'safety' loop though the risk factor even for an 'early adaptor' seems quite low.

[SaltyMetals]

Estarzinger, do you mean to say that you only used thie 5200 to stick the two C Links together and never peened the pins? Impressive stuff this product but dont think it exists in Europe where i am.
Andrew

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by charliehows

So the broad recommendation seems to be to use an adhesive between the halves of the join link as well as peening the pins – I think after reading this i'll give them a try.

Given the amount of force I needed to use to peen over the pins I don't think there will be much glue left in between the two halves of a Crosby link assuming you peen the pins shortly after gluing the two halves together. Or is there some secret to gluing it first for 24 hours then bashing the hell out of it, always dead easy on a wooden pontoon.

Pete

[Blue Stocking]

Atlantic problem as well Jim.

Yesterday, in the boatyard, after a service and re-install of a client windlass, decided to drop all the 5/16" chain and re-stow. At 270 ft, chain drops over the bow. Joining link separated at the last 25 ft. He had never let out that much, and did not know of the joint. Also, chain not anchored in the locker. Chain to 10ft rope splice now with dowel at the bitter end, supported up on bulkhead.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by hzcruiser

I guess, like everything, they come in different sizes and qualities.

I have some 3" S/S versions rated with a working load of 1000kgs and connect the anchor chain to an addtional 15m length of rope. If I apply a 1Tonne load to the chain I suspect the bow would be under water if the cleats haven't pulled out first.

Pete

[double u]

...gentlemen, much as I value your accumulated experience:
I just looked at the damned things in the drawers here in the warehouse - they are not gonna be aboard our next boat! just like all those chinese anchor-copies!

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by SaltyMetals

Estarzinger, do you mean to say that you only used thie 5200 to stick the two C Links together and never peened the pins?

Yes, correct.

When I started doing this I originally also used two '2 turn whippings' of monel seizing wire on the c link. But after a few years seeing how well the 5200 held I stopped doing that. It worked well for me . . . but as I said above that is not enough experience to suggest it is a perfect idea for others

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by double u

...gentlemen, much as I value your accumulated experience:
I just looked at the damned things in the drawers here in the warehouse - they are not gonna be aboard our next boat! just like all those chinese anchor-copies!

But like everything.....did you look at the genuine product, or a poorly made knock off casting.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

But like everything.....did you look at the genuine product, or a poorly made knock off casting.

Exactly. Just like the chain or shackles or any other related bit, there's a big difference between the good stuff and the junk.

To be safe for anchoring use only Crosbly alloy shackles. Don't trust anything off the shelf at any chandlery unless you know and trust them to sell you the real thing.

Crosby also makes C-links that are rated to the same strength as G30 BBB anchor chain. Even though rated the same I still have reservations about using a two piece anchor chain. Just makes me nervous. What if I discover a yet undetected failure mode? I always hate being the first to learn this kind of thing.