Bedding Compounds

[forsailbyowner]

Im getting ready to install aluminum toerail and stainless on rubrail. From what Ive seen I could spend a huge amount of cash, a little or something in between. I see the Dolphinite, Interlux 214q, pettit 7110q, 3m-8509 etc.. which would break the bank. It retails for $50 a pint and i need nearly a 1/4"x1 1/2" bed for 50'. 5200 would be cheap in comparison. Back in the day I built modular homes for a while and polyseamseal was the standard when you didnt want something to leak. Heck Ive bedded stuff with $1 a tube latex that never leaked through years of service.

So properly applied, getting an adhesion and a compression seal on properly prepared surfaces , is the hi dollar stuff really that much better or even necessary?

I keep thinking of those who say things like only do repairs with epoxy on fiberglass when Ive done large boatyard polyester repairs that lasted decades with no sign of failure. Is it tossing money in the wind?

[SV Windrush II]

3M 5200 is permanent and almost impossible to come off but I do not believe it is UV resistant. if you ever need to replace it, you could use 3M 4000UV. It's less expensive also and has UV protection. Sika also has a product that is similar.

[glenn.225]

One word, Butyl. The deck to hull joint on my 1971 Vega is still sticky and water tight. The stuff moves with the joint and seals like nothing else.

Mainesail sells it. ***Buy Bed-It Butyl Tape*** Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

[forsailbyowner]

The butyl rubber sounds good, the tape maybe not for this. I just looked and estimate was spot on. its gonna be 1/4"x1 1/2" by about 50'. the tape is 1/2"x 1/16".

[Cheechako]

You don't want to go cheap in a labor intensive task like that. I think boat companies used to use 5200 when doing toerails was the IN thing....

[neilpride]

If its just to keep the leaks at bay, Butyl tape..

Structural and need to be glued in any way, 5200.....

[forsailbyowner]

Its got 1/4" bolts on 3" centers so im not seeing a bunch of movement except maybe where the sheets will be attached. Now the sheets are led via track bolted on top of a wood toerail on longer centers. those have been a constant source of leaks and broken bolts. my plan is to use blocks with snap shackles to move the sheeting fore and aft.

[thinwater]

Butyl is available in all shapes and sizes, up to 1 1/2" square. Look around. Concrete construction uses the large sizes.

Remember, you can lap pieces; in seconds they become one.

[forsailbyowner]

The butyl rubber tape is new to me. Looks inexpensive. Is there a certain type I should look for. I see some described as amalgamating and some as putty tape , tacky tape, architectural tape etc... How do you install the bolts through? simply push through? any tips or cautions? Should I get 5/16" to seal a 1/4" flange?

[roverhi]

R&R'd the 1 1/2 x 2" cap rail on my 35' boat. Used 2 tubes of LifeCaulk per side. Bolts were on 1' centers. The hull to deck joint is epoxy and glass. Have used LifeCaulk (Polysulfide Sealant also known as 3M 101 or Thiokol) for 5 decades and have been very satisfied. Have pulled stuff sealed with LifeCaulk after 30 years and the caulk still adhered and was pliable after all that time. The secret is to clean the surfaces with acetone to remove any traces of oils.

Have used a number of different of caulks in house construction. The residential stuff was all pretty much crap that either hardened after a few years and/or broke the bond between the parts it was supposed to seal. That was in areas that were mostly shielded from UV and never saw a breaking wave.

Dolphinite is an historical anomaly. Originally invented by Horatio Nelson to seal wooden ships. The stuff is easy to work with but will eventually harden and quit sealing. Had to pull my wood cap rail and reseal with LifeCaulk when the Dolphinite failed after a few years. Works okay for wood but modern sealants are way better.

[Terra Nova]

There are many sealants that would work. But for a permanent installation, like a toe-rail, 5200. For a rub-rail, that is likely to be damaged and replaced, Life Caulk or even Life Seal. Or their Sika equivalents.

This isn't the place to save $ on cheap materials.

[bobconnie]

If UV is not a concern, then 5200 is the way to go ! It seals and sticks!! even adds strength !! Do it once with 5200 and forget it till your old and grey !! LOL Just my 2 cents, I bed almost everything with 5200, and have never had a problem !