Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Roy M]

Here are some pics. The furler lines, hardware are pretty much all Harken, final details are pending, but the operational details work well, so now I can install the headsails, sheets and shiny bits
More pics to come.

[Roy M]

Hope these pics make it

[gruffa]

Hi Roy,
Your boat is looking real good.

I was wondering about your non-skid, as I am going to need to redo ours.
(We've got a 1975 Tristar)
Our non-skid looks to be done with sprinkled grit on a wet coat and then a couple of layers of paint over that. Very effective and nice feel, and has lasted very well.
Problem is that with deck rot repairs and other repairs, and general deterioration, I need to repaint now that I have done all the repairs, and want to match the old non-skid.
I have found suitable grit for the repaired areas. I just wonder how best to blend in with the old. It's tricky fairing in at the right level to the non-skid surrounding the repairs. And how to clean and key the old non-skid areas?

I was wondering how you handled this, as I can see you have some repaired areas and must have some of the same issues to blend in the repairs, and paint the old areas over.

Jamie

[Roy M]

Jamie, don't over think this repair. You will be the only person who really notices. I try to work on zones, defined by what we call "waterways", glossy strips an inch wide, which then get masking tape over them and the nonskid gets rolled on, grit sprinkled lightly over the fresh paint, let it dry overnight, then vacuum the non adhered grit and cover with sequential applications of paint. If you do it in zones you can reapply within 24 hours and not have to be concerned with sanding between coats.

[Roy M]

This morning I epoxied the deck coaming that prevents my port forward headsail furlers (seen in my recent photos early last week) from being a tripping hazard. Like the future dodger coamings, I use a PVC pipe section glued in place, followed by glassing them, creatively molding and then painting them before finishing the portside nonskid. It's a lot of detail work, but it's going to be worth it. When complete it will appear to "grow" out of the deck naturally. Later I'll place a flat lid with nonskid to span the two coamings to ensure that the furler lines don't trip anyone.

[Roy M]

I think the most challenging part of doing an overhaul of a whole boat is understanding the concept of sequencing all the individual projects. If you don't take care to have each step planned out, then expensive (time consuming, costly and frustrating) consequences ensue. Not to mention, that in these crazy times of supply chain chaos, you need to order way in advance and have plenty of common supplies like sandpaper, hardware, paint and acetone on hand. Right now I seem to have a better inventory of self tapping screws than West Marine.

[gruffa]

Thanks for your reply Roy.
How do you key the old non skid before painting? (Assuming you are not sanding off all the old non skid.. or are you?)

[Roy M]

Yes, Gruffa, I go over the old nonskid (which used silica sand as the grit) with the courses disks available for my vacuum sander. This knocks the sharp grit off the old paint and readies it for the nonskid grit (Awlgrip). Then I apply the masking tape and razor cut the corner radii to make it look nice. That's what I'm doing right now. Later, this morning I will mix some Sterling Moon Dust LPU, then begin rolling on the first coat, followed immediately with a dusting coat of grit. Tomorrow, I'll vacuum off the excess dusting of grit and roll on the first topcoat.

This is very exciting because our weather has been damp and foggy the last couple weeks making the masking tape application impossible. Today the decks are dry and we are masking all we can.

There is a portion of the aft portside quarter deck that I may not strip as it is in good condition due to minimal UV exposure, being covered by the RIB on deck rollers. I may just give it a good scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner (like Comet) and call it good. That leaves only the walkway around the sterncastle to paint. I want to install the Autohelm mechanical autopilot before doing so, for which there's no hurry. Again, it's all about sequences. I can't wait to send pictures of the roller furler control lines after I'm done painting the foredeck nonskid. The layout turned out beautifully and finishes that installation. Then I can install the staysail and jib on their respective rollers, finishing one more project. That will leave the anchor windlass and foredeck wiring (foredeck running light [engine running mode] and windlass controls, worklight and holding tank deck pump out fitting) to complete one more sequence project. Yesterday I loaded the two spare chain and rode into my car for installation in the forward wet hatches. Then, I will install the hatch hinges, after polishing, to finish the deck projects. Things are moving fast, finally.

[Roy M]

Masking the foredeck.

[longjonsilver]

Originally Posted by Roy M

Things are moving fast, finally.

Itza great feeling to see things progressing fast. Ask me how i know.

[Tusitala]

Interlux makes a product called fiberglass surface prep that you can work into the nonskid surface using a fairly coarse Scotch Brite, then wash off with fresh water. Does a pretty good job of it

Pat

[gruffa]

Thanks Roy, and thanks Pat.

Gives me more confidence to go ahead.

[Stormsignal]

An ambitious asking price imo but there is a Searunner 37 for sale in Queensland, Australia.

https://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats...nner-37/283539

[gruffa]

Well, 75k in Aussie dollars is about 50k in USD so maybe not as ambitious as it might sound.
The second hand boat market has been quite hot for the last two years too. But may be cooling now.
Looks to have all the gear and low hours engine, perhaps on the small side though. Can't tell what the condition is like though.
Maybe at the high end for this type of boat here.
(Though someone is trying to sell their Cross 53 for $400k AUD ! )

[catsketcher]

Yeah nice boat.

I had a look over her about 25 years ago. She had a Ruggerini in her and she had a 4 bladed prop. My wife and I crawled around inside her and were impressed. I would have bought her if she had been epoxy but she was very well built.

I rang the owners to let them know we wouldn't be buying her and got told we were not in their good books. We had been poking around the engine room and I had undone the companionway step latch. Then one of the owners stepped inside and came undone when the steps moved. Not one of my better days.

A new diesel and good sails would make her a nice boat. Good that they got rid of the awful plastic wallpaper too.