Wood to Fiberglass Leaky Deck Joint Repair

[liquidkangaroo]

When the new fiberglass deck was laid on my Edisto, the project was never finished. Now that I have my new deadlights in, I am able to better spot leaky areas and get them fixed. One of the biggest contributors to these leaks are the deck joins where the wood panel meets the deck.







Several options have been presented here by other sailors at my marina. Both of them include sanding the deck and side panel (which needs to be done anyways):

1.) Seal with 4200 and add a a teak trim set with butyl tape and screws around the entire base to keep it water tight.

2.) Use the West Systems Epoxy with the 406 Colloidal Filler and create a seal that will be water tight and can be sanded down to create a flush appearance.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this or if there were any other options that I have not been presented with yet. As always, I look forward to your advice and help!

[deltaten]

'roo;

I'd opt for #1, as you will have a mechanical connection. When it leaks again, it can be r&r'd to re-do the butyl and re-tighten..
With the epoxy scenario,, when it leaks or de-lams; you'll have a heck of a time sealing/re-doing it.

hope that's helpful,
Paul

[senormechanico]

Butyl expands and flows when warm, shrinks and CRACKS when cold.
We built a 40' geodesic dome house in the '70's.
The windows were dark grey tinted, and set with butyl.
I repeatedly found leaks from the above process.
I finally scraped out all the butyl and replaced it with black silicone.
I never quite got all the leaks, but it was a heck of a lot better.

[senormechanico]

Pic of house.
CF is acting funny today.
BTW, this is NOT a recommendation for silicone.

[Lepke]

I am 66 and started working on boats and ships when I was 14. I am also a former union shipwright and commercial fisherman. I have done dozens of decks in a variety of ways. I live on a wood former USCG patrol boat and have recently refiberglassed my decks.
For a long term seal, the problem is how much flex the seam must overcome. If the cabin wasn't varnished, I would have rolled the cloth and resin up the panel an inch. Otherwise you need enough clean wood for epoxy to hold. That means cleaning out the gap so enough epoxy is in contact with the cabin. West also makes a flexible epoxy. I use it where metal hatches meet wood decks.

The fastest, easiest way is with an excellent flexible caulk with a trim strip embedded into the caulk.
Now I only use West epoxy and their 404 high density adhesive filler. I don't use polyester resin for anything. A case in point, I used West epoxy and 404 to seal the tops of where my rubrails meet the planking and where sections of rubrail come together. The previous sealers weren't holding and this boat flexes in heavy weather. In 4 years I haven't got a crack.