Want to mount wood slat in my cockpit locker to hang lines, etc.

[jbinbi]

I am sick of having lines and fenders just tossed in, so I want to organize it. I would like to hang them so they are easy to put back and take out.

My locker is basically a huge hole into the port side of the boat where if I chose the 3 cabin model, there would be another stateroom. So in a volume sense it is great, but how to organize is the issue.

I was going to take 1/2" x 2" wood and mount it, then I could add hooks to them. But how to mount to the back of the hull, underside of deck, or inside of locker on the cockpit side? Can't drill and screw. Was thinking about using 4200?

Would think lots of members here have solved this problem already and hoping to hear their solutions.

[Bycrick]

I’ve had good luck in your application using Plexus or similar methacrylate adhesives. They are two-part like epoxies, but set quicker than regular epoxy and are generally stronger than the quick-set epoxies.

[Cheechako]

I've used 5200 once, it worked fine. But I had a couple screws in it also which helped while it cured.
I think I did "Kitty Hair" once also on a board with saw cut grooves in it to help bond the kitty hair.. You need the boat glass side of the bond to be nice and rough not smooth.

The hardest part of either will be holding it secure while it cures.

As mentioned, the modern products in tubes might be good, like the Plexus mentioned.

[bcboomer]

Weld Mount Adhesive have several types of fasteners and glues. I mounted our hot water tank to the inside of the hull with 4 weld mount studs and the 8040 adhesive. Works great. I use their wire tie mounts for running wiring and the studs for mounting pretty much everything that needs mounting.

[Madehn]

I use a couple of small screws or a wood brace plus 5200. Clean the area with acetone first and it will hold longer than you will live.

[Chotu]

all of these things and epoxy work great.

probably the main thing you want to look at out of all of them is the open time and the time it takes to cure.

Just making sure those fit with the installation strategy you’re planning.

[hlev00]

The other important thing is prepping. Clean the adhesion area in the locker well with acetone. Then sand with 80grit to provide some tooth for the adhesive to hold. Then wipe again.

I would go for a bigger piece if there is room. Maybe 3-4”. You will find all sorts of uses once you get started.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by hlev00

The other important thing is prepping. Clean the adhesion area in the locker well with acetone. Then sand with 80grit to provide some tooth for the adhesive to hold. Then wipe again.

I would go for a bigger piece if there is room. Maybe 3-4”. You will find all sorts of uses once you get started.

If it is a painted surface sand through the paint. If you glue to paint it will just pull the paint away from the fiberglass. Most paint is put on without removing the amine blush, in other words the paint is not well adhered to the fiberglass.

[John_Trusty]

I had great success with West Systems 6ten, which is thickened epoxy in a standard caulking tube with a mixing nozzle. Rough up the surface with course sandpaper, clean with acetone, put down a small line to a 1/2 inch board. Two hours later it is a structural part of the boat.

[s/v Jedi]

So, instead of drilling holes and screwing to keep the part in place while epoxy cures, you can simply mark the spot to mount it, trowel the epoxy onto the part except for some inch wide circles, then just before moving it into place, put big dabs of hot glue in those circles and hold in place until the hot glue has set.

[hlev00]

Originally Posted by stormalong

If it is a painted surface sand through the paint. If you glue to paint it will just pull the paint away from the fiberglass. Most paint is put on without removing the amine blush, in other words the paint is not well adhered to the fiberglass.

Yes, be sure the paint, if any, is adhered well. Or sand back to the fiberglass. Except there isn’t amine blush with polyester or vinylester resins. Only epoxy, and then not every epoxy. So unless you have an expensive epoxy boat, no need to worry about blush. If you have a production GRP boat, the paint most likely is “gel coat” and well adhered. Still, getting down to the fiberglass layer is a good thing. Just be sure to wear a good mask/respirator and tyvek suit to avoid an unbearable night of itchies from sanding the fiberglass.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by hlev00

Yes, be sure the paint, if any, is adhered well. Or sand back to the fiberglass. Except there isn’t amine blush with polyester or vinylester resins. Only epoxy, and then not every epoxy. So unless you have an expensive epoxy boat, no need to worry about blush. If you have a production GRP boat, the paint most likely is “gel coat” and well adhered. Still, getting down to the fiberglass layer is a good thing. Just be sure to wear a good mask/respirator and tyvek suit to avoid an unbearable night of itchies from sanding the fiberglass.

Excuse me. Wax boom on polyester. Wax is mixed with polyester resins so they will cure properly or are sprayed onto the final layer if a layup to promote curing.

"Wax Solution, when mixed into polyester resins or gel coats prevents tackiness. The wax in the curing process will rise or "bloom" to the top creating a barrier between the resin and air."

https://fiberglasssource.com/product...agent-1-gallon

[hlev00]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Excuse me. Wax boom on polyester. Wax is mixed with polyester resins so they will cure properly or are sprayed onto the final layer if a layup to promote curing.

"Wax Solution, when mixed into polyester resins or gel coats prevents tackiness. The wax in the curing process will rise or "bloom" to the top creating a barrier between the resin and air."

https://fiberglasssource.com/product...agent-1-gallon

Waxes are different than the amine blush that some epoxies, including West Systems, produce during the curing process. But yes, there may be wax left over from a final spray coat of gel coat. Or I suppose as you suggest from the fiberglass layup. I suppose some hack shop might paint right over the waxed resin so you are right to suggest ensuring it is all sound before proceeding.

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So, instead of drilling holes and screwing to keep the part in place while epoxy cures, you can simply mark the spot to mount it, trowel the epoxy onto the part except for some inch wide circles, then just before moving it into place, put big dabs of hot glue in those circles and hold in place until the hot glue has set.

Now that’s a trick

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So, instead of drilling holes and screwing to keep the part in place while epoxy cures, you can simply mark the spot to mount it, trowel the epoxy onto the part except for some inch wide circles, then just before moving it into place, put big dabs of hot glue in those circles and hold in place until the hot glue has set.

I do this at times as well. Hot glue is really important when building a boat. It works for so many things. It's fast