Strip plank "ceilings" and furring strips out of cedar?

[dannc]

In case you have not heard of the material, the Dashew FPB's used EPDM insulation, Armaflex is the brand name, https://setsail.com/insulating-boat-hull/ and https://setsail.com/fpb-78-1-the-insulation-story/ links have explanations and photos.


It seems to allow easy close fitting to the hull without possible gaps between insulation and the hull. It come in a variety of sizes and thicknesses. A home boat builder used this stuff and recommended getting the insulation with the glue already applied. More money but faster and easier install. He did have to go back and cut a hole in the side of his steel boat for a modification. Removing the EPDM was not too much trouble.


Later,
Dan

[roverhi]

I had 3/8" African Mahogany T&G custom milled for the overhead and ceilings in our Westsail 32. Wasn't cheap to have the planking milled but then it wasn't all that expensive either. Made vertical nailing ribs out of 2" mahogany cut roughly to shape with a saber saw and glued to the hull sides with thickened polyester resin. Nailed the T&G to the backing ribs with bronze ring shank nails. Had to spile the T&G for the ceilings in the V berth area forward. Planed the planks down with a block plane on the groove side and recut the groove on the table saw. It's been 45 years and don't remember if I had to shape the tongue side as well.to make the boards fit. In any case it worked out well and everything's still in place after 45 years. Filled the voids with styrofoam sheets cut to fit and glued in place. No condensation issues as a live aboard over two SoCal winters.

I used thickened polyester resin to glue the ribs to the hull because it was the only thing readily available in those days. Epoxy was still a gleam in the Gougeon Brothers eyes. Used asbestos as the thickening agent. It was sold in paper bags by the resin suppliers and on the factory floor in open paper barrels and was universally used. If you have an old boat, be careful if you have to grind a greenish tint filler. It's harmless until you turn it back into a powder. Did not laminate over the nailing ribs which I would recommend now. Probably got away with it because of the thick Westsail hull layup that didn't flex much.

The bronze ring necked nails worked great as they quickly oxidized into a dark bronze that matched the Mahagony and blended in. They really bit into the wood and were a bitch to to pull out and haven't had the tendency to back out like straight shank nails do.

If I was doing it again would use straight wood strips with a slight gap in between. Would be way easier to spile to fit and allow air flow though don't think that's a big issue with a fiberglass boat.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by robwilk37

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
the aroma only last a few days when fresh cut anyway so seal it up and youre good to go. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's the answer. I cut some cedar to stick in my hanging lockers. The [non-existent] spray would've been longer lasting!

[Sailorbob8599]

I purchased & completed a Passage 24' F/G hull & deck assembly. I think it cost me far more than a production boat but, I ended up with exactly what I wanted.
I cut 2" wide furring strips from 1/2" fir plywood, notched the backside with saw cuts about 1/4" deep to allow it to bend without cracking or splintering. Mixed up some 'bear ****' & applied the strips to the hull from the bunk decks, up & overhead at about an 18" spacing. I then cut sheets of "Ethafoam" … a closed cell insulation having a very high R factor … & fitted these between the furring strips sans glue of any kind. I then lined the interior of my boat with 2" wide YELLOW CEDAR T&G. The T&G strips were about 3/8" thick. I fastened them to the furring strips with #6 - 3/4" Phillips s.s. oval-head wood-screws. I finished the T&G with an application of "Watco Danish Oil" which is so simple to keep pristine looking by simply wiping it again using a rag & a light film of additional oil.

The boat has now been in the water for three winters & never showed signs of condensation in any part of the interior. Always feels 'warm' even the only heater I use is a 110v 'purpose designed' thing that is just comfortably warm to the touch. Can't recall the name of it right now, but they've been on the market for many years. They come in two different sizes. I bought the larger one. It works well & is safe to operate, No switches or controls, just plug it in & leave it on all winter. It uses minimal power so is economical to use 24/7.

I should mention the yellow cedar was export grade. I managed to get it from a load slated for export from the sawmill. Normally not available to our home market. It's all clear grain, no blemishes anywhere. Lovely wood, nice musky smell when cutting. Like teak, it has its own natural oil & is impervious to rot. Best boat building lumber. Easy to cut or machine.

[catman]

I helped a friend cover the ceiling and walls of his 46’ catamaran in red cedar T&G.
Finished with water based varathane. The variations in color looked great
If you have serious compound curves put the strips in a lenght of pipe ABS/PVC with a cap on one end and fill it with hot water, let soak and it becomes really flexible.
If you want a more natural look brush on Swedish Oil, a small amount goes a long way and if it dulls just reapply.
Catman

[psk125]

The ceiling (hull liner, not the overhead) on our boat is strips of ash, screwed into furring strips in the hull, and varnished. The edges have been rounded to provide some delineation/contrast in the expanse of wood, and to make the space look larger. Routing a decorative edge on each strip would serve a similar purpose. Bead & cove strips might end up looking too flat, and this might make any surface irregularities or errors stand out more than you'd like.

[Sand crab]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

That's the answer. I cut some cedar to stick in my hanging lockers. The [non-existent] spray would've been longer lasting!

For that you would need aromatic red cedar. It is found in the eastern US and the color is really striking. It is commonly used in closets and chests because the intense smell repels moths and other insects. Perhaps a ceiling lined with it might be too much of a good thing.

[Delfin]

Sounds close to what I did on Delfin. I used a "V" to router to cut a 1/8" groove in 1/4" x 4' x 8' hard board every 4", then painted white. That's thin enough to allow bending. I then made 5/8" x 2 1/2" strips from Jatoba with an inset, rounded edge so as to make a finger grip. These were attached athwartship with screws and bungs every two feet to cover the seams and break up the field.