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13-02-2009, 21:47
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Sloping the Bilge?
I want to buildup my bilge a bit so the slope is a little more aggresive toward the sump. It is vinyl ester fiberglass and I figure that at one end the buildup would be about 1.5 inches. To do this with epoxy would be expensive. Is there any other product or maybe the question should be what is the right product to do this.
Any Ideas?
Thanks,
Extemp.
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13-02-2009, 22:52
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: We're technically refugees from our home in Yemen now living in Lebenon
Boat: 1978 CT48
Posts: 5,964
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How wide...how long?
My first thought would be to use a core filler like a pieces of HD foam shaped to give the tapper you're looking for, Or maybe that "Starboard" stuff I here some members talk about....even wood!
Then a couple layers of glass on top.
This is probably going to mean grinding into the sides of the existing bilge finish and will be messy to say the least.
I did a similar build up but only needed about half the height you’re looking at and was about 2ft square…I just used filler from resin/micro-balloons with no glass on top…it’s a lot easier if you can reduce your volume.
__________________
James
S/V Arctic Lady
I love my boat, I can't afford not to!
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14-02-2009, 00:38
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Francisco Bay
Boat: Fantasia 35
Posts: 1,251
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Extemp,
Are you sure the boat needs a sloping bilge? Rarely does a boat sit level in the water. They also rock and roll when the winds blow, power boats go by at high speed, and the crew moves about - even when tied to the dock. The trick is to use this natural sloshing about of the bilge water to catch it in a sump and then to pump it out.
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14-02-2009, 08:30
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viking Sailor
Extemp,
Are you sure the boat needs a sloping bilge? Rarely does a boat sit level in the water. They also rock and roll when the winds blow, power boats go by at high speed, and the crew moves about - even when tied to the dock. The trick is to use this natural sloshing about of the bilge water to catch it in a sump and then to pump it out.
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Actually, you make a good point. However, I think I do need to slope a bit more than it is and will have to fill some small pits and low spots.
Glad you said that though.
Thanks,
Extemp.
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14-02-2009, 08:49
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now.
Posts: 10,406
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How about building a well the bilge pump sits in? As water gets sloshed around it accumulates in the well where it is captured and contained. It is then an easy matter for the bilge pump to empty the well.
__________________
David
Life begins where land ends.
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14-02-2009, 09:15
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David M
How about building a well the bilge pump sits in? As water gets sloshed around it accumulates in the well where it is captured and contained. It is then an easy matter for the bilge pump to empty the well.
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Thanks David.
I indeed have a well or sump, I'm just not happy with some of the standing water (not that much really) on the bilge bottom along the path to the well.
I think Viking Sailor had a good point about the sloshing and now I just want to make it all smooth (with some slight buildup) and be sure what I install to smooth/sloop/buildup that path will not delaminate or get water trapped between the old and new. If I use epoxy it could get expensive (path approx 12" x 7') and was wondering if there was an alternate material that would be acceptable and less expensive?
I may be stuck with epoxy from what I've read.
Extemp.
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14-02-2009, 09:17
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#7
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running down a dream
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Florida
Boat: cape dory 30 MKII
Posts: 3,116
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couldn't you use some kind of foam core covered with epoxy? seems easy enough if you need to do it.
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14-02-2009, 09:28
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonesail
couldn't you use some kind of foam core covered with epoxy? seems easy enough if you need to do it.
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You may be right but that would still mean that the low spots below any flat material (foam core) would have to be filled.
My question is a little preemptive as I only have about half of the bilge in question opened up. I still need to remove 100 gals of diesel from my main tank and remove the tank.
We'll see.
Thanks,
Extemp.
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14-02-2009, 09:34
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now.
Posts: 10,406
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I think epoxy is your best bet with its strength, ability to adhere and water tight properties. Instead of using pure epoxy, which would run, mix the epoxy with microballoon until you get the paste or filler like viscosity that you prefer. Adding microballoon also makes it lighter and easier to sand smooth. You could then paint or roll on a layer of epoxy over that to make it easier to clean. I would use something like Interlux 3000 which is a white colored epoxy meant to be a water barrier and is a very tough epoxy when cured.
I think that if you were to use foam that you may be opening yourself up to possible delamination or water absorption problems later.
__________________
David
Life begins where land ends.
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14-02-2009, 10:29
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Thanks David.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David M
I think epoxy is your best bet with its strength, ability to adhere and water tight properties. Instead of using pure epoxy, which would run, mix the epoxy with microballoon until you get the paste or filler like viscosity that you prefer. Adding microballoon also makes it lighter and easier to sand smooth. You could then paint or roll on a layer of epoxy over that to make it easier to clean. I would use something like Interlux 3000 which is a white colored epoxy meant to be a water barrier and is a very tough epoxy when cured.
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I think this is right for my situation.
Regarding the paint, I am currently preping the interior of my hull (parts at a time) and was planning to use AwlGard. It is less offensive (water based) for interior work. "Like all urethanes, is not to be subjected to extended water immersion" however I'm hoping to have no standing water when I'm done. "This two component urethane has excellent solvent resistance to denatured alcohol and acetone as well as diesel fuel and anti-freeze."
Will this paint work or do you maintain that I should use the Interlux 3000 for the actual bilge portion of the painting project?
Quote:
Originally Posted by David M
I think that if you were to use foam that you may be opening yourself up to possible delamination or water absorption problems later.
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This is what my farmer sense was telling me also.
Thanks all,
Extemp.
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16-02-2009, 19:16
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corpus Christi Texas
Boat: boatless atm
Posts: 762
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Extemp I today coated my bilge with bilgekote.
Interlux Bilgekote Paint
Went on easy. Nice white color. Cost was reasonable.
Far are pumping out your 100 gal. of diesel, I used a electric pump thru my twin racor 500's and into a racor baja filter into a 19 gal. moller poly day tank and 6 secpter 5 gal tanks. There was only a bit left after that. I had planned to sell my fuel to the local shrimpers if there was more but just squeaked by.
The crap that I found at the bottom of my aluminum tank was increadible. So glad I pulled it out.
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16-02-2009, 19:22
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Winnipeg
Boat: None at this time
Posts: 8,462
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Bob, did you take pictures of the gunk in your tank? It would be great if you could post pictures of the stuff here or the "Fuel Polishing" thread. Thanks
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21-02-2009, 12:10
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Interlux Bilgekote Paint vs AwlGard in the Bilge
This project is a BIG deal due to the removal of most of my Interior and the extensive preparation required. I ONLY want to do this ONCE as I'm sure you can all appreciate.
Does anyone have an opinion of which of the two paints above is the BEST?
I am already compromising due to this being done within an enclosed area and therefore I believe that picking the RIGHT paint is even more important. A lot of these areas will be covered and NOT accessible again.
Below are links to the two different paints for those that may be able to interpret the data better than myself.
yachtpaint.com - the official site of International and Interlux paints (it's java based? so you have to go to Bilgekote once you get there)
Awl-Gard
Anyone?
Thanks,
Extemp.
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21-02-2009, 12:16
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfnbw
Extemp I today coated my bilge with bilgekote.
Interlux Bilgekote Paint
Went on easy. Nice white color. Cost was reasonable.
Far are pumping out your 100 gal. of diesel, I used a electric pump thru my twin racor 500's and into a racor baja filter into a 19 gal. moller poly day tank and 6 secpter 5 gal tanks. There was only a bit left after that. I had planned to sell my fuel to the local shrimpers if there was more but just squeaked by.
The crap that I found at the bottom of my aluminum tank was increadible. So glad I pulled it out.
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Thanks Bob,
I'm just getting my polishing system setup and will likely use it to empty my tanks. Now I just have to find someone who wants it (and is willing to pay something for it).
Did you look into the AwlGard?
Extemp.
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21-02-2009, 15:07
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Buena Vista Colorado
Boat: S/V Pooka Com-Pac 27
Posts: 219
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I just did this on a much smaller scale. My boat is a Com-pac 27. The ballast is concrete. The bilge is made by placing a plywood form in the keel and the concrete is poured around it. The whole thing is then glassed over. Over the years water made it's way into the plywood and it was rotting out. I tore out the old bilge and plywood form which left me with an issue, rebuilding the bilge with the proper slope. Since the surface I was working on was laready concrete I used grout, sand/cement mix and built a very smooth and well sloped bilge. Then the whole thing got reglassed with epoxy resin. The majority of the shape was very cheap and easy to work. If it should encounter water intrusion it wont rot, rust or delaminate. It'll just be damp concrete. On top of the e-glass it got two coats of bilgekote.
For your project why wouldn't something like that work? You can even get admixs for the grout that make it bind to most anything, however a little flex might be a good thing.
check out this resource, they have some pretty exotic material.
http://www.foxind.com/
__________________
S/V Pooka
Com-Pac 27
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