Yes, you will need everything you have listed. You will want to add a few various sized prybars to the list though... from finish nail puller on up to a monster. (Depends on the size of the boat how big the monster is... Or at least how heavy the
engine is!)
Add a few really long extensions (2 foot plus) a hand full of wobble extensions, universal joints, and 5/16ths nut drivers to the list. If your
interior is done with flat
head bronze screws... buy every flathead you can find until you have an assortment of sizes that fit perfectly, and when you strip out a screw... replace it with one that has the same size slot! (Klein screw drivers do not suck... The best are the old
wood handled snap ons however. Buy a real nice set of fine files and a mini-vice and you can make most anything
work...)
I like 6 point sockets. (Don't break as often, and don't round fasteners as often. 2 sets of box wrenches though, 6 and 12... or one set of Snap On flank drives!) A set of ratcheting box wrenches can be really nice... but after the first couple months, just
buying 3-4 that you really wish you had works too. (When you take something apart with way to many threads... cut the bolt shorter, or replace it with a shorter one!) A few common size stubbies, or crows feet and a few offset box wrenches are worth their weight in gold.
Make sure you have a few extensions that aren't indexed the same... meaning the square on one end is off from the square on the other. For those times when the ratchet or breaker bar is jammed up beside a bulkhead, and has to much backlash to start loosening no matter what you do. Wobble extensions help with that too. Snap On/Matco/high end craftsman are great things to have in 1/4 and 3/8ths.
A few ratchets that have really long handles, and a 1/4 inch drive flexible extension for going after Hose clamps! Add a magnetic button to the 5/16ths for the occasional screw driving bit, and a hammer driven impact. A quarter inch drive ratchet that has a handle barely two inches long... A few bits of heavy wall pipe for all breaker bars (not on the ratchets, unless they are new Craftsman.
) to add some butt.
Once you step up to 1/2 inch drive, get a 3/4 inch breaker bar and adapt it down to 1/2 inch. Won't break, breaker bars again.
Then add nut and bolt extractors. The type that look like taps and dies... (add a few of those too, a few spare in 1/4 20!) You can use a sliding t-handle with a socket on it as a tap wrench...
Add a bunch of magnets, pickup tools, mirrors... flashlights on sticks, and mirrors with flashlights, as well as a rock climbing
head light.
Lastly, a pair of channel grips/water
pump pliers that have been ground down to perfectly fit inside the housing of your
raw water impeller housing. Without scratching anything, letting you grab hold of the impeller and yank it out. Facom makes some of the most beautiful pliers on planet earth.
If you have any massive recessed hex fasteners, you can either buy the massive wrenches or buy a bolt with the proper sized head. (Easier to do with metric...) and double nut it. Block drains... eww! Replace with
bronze if you get the chance.
Shew... I could go on for days, but
boats are a pain in the rear. You can't see the fastener, can't touch the fastener, or have to build a rube goldberg contraption to work around corners, through
hull fittings, hoses, and curves of the
hull to take anything apart. Worse than the engineers that have never worked on a car,
boats have three layers of improvements done the easiest way possible with no care for the difficulty the next guy will have removing that widget!