Opinion on just painting rough surfaces?

[Chotu]

It looks like I’m starting to think about keeping the boat. Even though I haven’t gone sailing yet. Even motoring around it has been pretty nice. A great platform to live and travel from.

I have a question about some finish work.

Basically I have an epoxy boat. A lot of the stuff on the bridge deck level is already fair and painted. Down in the hulls, it’s still raw fiberglass in many places.

I haven’t started on that yet because much of it will be hidden behind cabinetry so there’s no point in making it all pretty when it’s going to be in the back of a cabinet behind a shelf and some things.

My question is regarding a picture I saw on a recent thread about replacing headliners.

MarcJSmith posted a picture of his excellent looking work.

All he did was take down the old bad headliner and give a coat of paint to the fiberglass. It shows texture. It shows kind of the guts of the boat. But in my opinion it looks pretty good.

What does anyone think about just leaving my fiberglass rough as well and painting it over in the areas that it shows?

Again, this is for down inside the hulls.

Because of my problems with all of the boat building chemicals these days, I am pretty limited on what I can do. But I’m thinking if I make the cabinetry absolutely beautiful and use high end items everywhere I can to set off a good expensive look, leaving the walls with the rough texture might be OK.

Kind of like how in a lot of really nice stores and restaurants they just leave the old industrial building that they converted. You can still see all the concrete and steel and stuff, but because they have very new and nice-looking fixtures, it comes together.

Any opinions on that?

First picture is markjsmith’s work. Second and third pictures are my raw fiberglass texture in a decent area. And in the worst area. The chain plate area.

Could I just paint this stuff over?

[Chotu]

It would be really cool if there was some kind of paint that would go into the lows and that’s it. Kind of smoothing the texture a bit but not needing sanding

[rslifkin]

You'll still have the texture after painting, but as long as you can prep it adequately for the paint to stick, it'll work fine. If you want to make it smooth and fill the texture, unfortunately it'll require some kind of fairing compound. Or a whole lot of layers of paint with sanding in between. But the good news is, because this is interior, you have the option of using basically any fairing compound out there and don't have to worry about what's suitable for weather exposure or immersion under paint.

There's evidence of the builder doing this on my boat. Looking into the top of the galley cabinets (which extend above the headliner right to the underside of the deck) they very clearly just painted over the texture of the roving the inner layer of the deck is made from. That said, I don't think they did much to prep the surface, as some of the paint is flaking off (after 37 years).

[neilpride]

In my opinion, painting inside cabinets is fine even if the finish is rough, it is better to use two-component paints or primers.

On the other hand raw fiberglass finish painted in white inside of the boat looks horrible to me.
Gives an appearance of finishing a boat on a Friday afternoon.

The other option you already know is the one that costs more money.

BTW, In photo number 1 you can still see the marks of a grinder or sander..

[Tin Tin]

Couple of ideas:
1. Textured spray paint - variety of finishes.
2. 2 Part Polyurethane using a texture roller - this will last for a very long time.
3. Cheap solution - matt finish acrylic bathroom paint with mold inhibitor.


The more textured the finish the more effort to clean mold off.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by neilpride

In my opinion, painting inside cabinets is fine even if the finish is rough, it is better to use two-component paints or primers.

On the other hand raw fiberglass finish painted in white inside of the boat looks horrible to me.
Gives an appearance of finishing a boat on a Friday afternoon.

The other option you already know is the one that costs more money.

BTW, In photo number 1 you can still see the marks of a grinder or sander..

Well, it’s no longer really about money right now.

This is the work I have to do. It’s about time and my ability to withstand chemicals.

[JBP]

I compromise. If I touch it or rub against it, I fair and paint. If I don't, I'll paint rough. The inside of cabinets, storage lockers, etc. are rough. Headliner and ceiling get faired (although fairing is a pain, I might surrender some places to paint rough.

[neilpride]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Well, it’s no longer really about money right now.

This is the work I have to do. It’s about time and my ability to withstand chemicals.

If $$$ its not a problem....

No chemicals involved.

[ozarkshark]

I have just used truck bed urethane liner. You can get it in several colors, apply with spray can, brush or roller. tough and durable. Get it online or at about any auto parts store.

[Bill O]

I like Neil's idea above to make panels for a more finished look.

A little more work would be to incorporate the panels into a "drop ceiling" to allow for some insulation under the deck. This will keep a lot of heat out of the boat coming through the deck, keeping the interior cooler.

Painting would be quicker than adding insulation and more finished panels. A high build type paint/primer may help take out some of the texture and level out the appearance of the f/g. Definitely would not go w/a textured material as it will be more difficult to clean or match the texture if you need to touch it up.

[nussbda]

Ozarkshark - Do you have any pictures of the interior painted with the truck bed liner? How much prep did you do to the surface? I'm considering removing the current 40 year old carpet liner and painting.

Thanks,
Dave

[siamese]

I'd just paint it.

I'd knock down anything really rough or sharp with some sandpaper, but that's about it. If you rub your hand over an area and there's a point that seems like it will cut your hand, knock it down. It's entirely possible you won't have to do any of this.

The entire area will need to be sanded enough to make the paint stick. Maybe 220 grit everywhere. It'll be hard to get to the low areas, but don't sweat it too much.

Prime it. Paint it. I'd to glossy or semi gloss, depending on what kind of paint you're using. Done.

I did this on my 1972 Grampian 26. It had come from the factory with vinyl glued to the areas you're talking about, and the vinyl was looking kind of sad and was peeling off at the edges. I tore it down, sanded off the worst of the glue, and primed and painted it with Interlux Brightsides, beige. Looked terrific. Sure, you could see all the imperfections, but it was clean, uniform, and shiny.

My current boat, a Catalina 315, is one of the best maintained boats in my marina. Shiny, polished topsides, clean, shiny cabin sides, interior immaculate, finish redone in the interior anywhere it appears to be failing, etc.. I like to maintain to a high standard. Just saying this to let you know where I'm coming from.

It's kind of a shame that boats are so darned shiny and perfect when they're new. I for one, would be fine with a simpler work boat sort of an aesthetic that was easier to maintain.

[Chotu]

Pretty good ideas. But I can’t be sanding it either. I can’t sand the epoxy.

When it comes to the ceiling however, I will be able to just do the simple drop ceiling. That was already the plan. Helps with lighting and wire runs and everything as well.

This is strictly for the top sides of the hull. Like the wall inside the hull.

[bil56]

no sanding, no good paint job...
the main problem with painted interiors without insulation is condensation and damp walls

[rslifkin]

Some sanding will be required to get just about anything to stick, I think. Mind you, we're not talking a big sanding project. So someone to do a little sanding for you could have it done pretty quickly. Hand sanding over tarps and then vacuuming for any stray dust should do the trick, as the surface will just need to be scuffed up for adhesion.