Let's Talk Hull Painting

[HopCar]

DON’T TIP PERFECTION!
I went crazy trying to get a nice finish by rolling and tipping Perfection on a small skiff I built.

Then I read this book and it was easy. Just roll it on and walk away. Turns out that Perfection will flow out beautifully if you thin it correctly to begin with. No need to keep adding solvent as you work. No need to tip with a brush.

A digital copy of the book only costs $3.50. It’s a real bargain.

?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

[coopec43]

I have not read all the posts but I notice people are adamant you need to use two part paint and I agree wholeheartedly.

I tried rolling and tipping, watched all the videos and it was an absolute disaster.

I mentioned to the guy behind the counter and he looked alarmed and said "But you said you were spraying it!" And then went on to say they supply three types of hardeners

• One for spray painting - very quick action
• A slower hardener which could be used for rolling and tipping in cold weather.
• A slow acting hardener for use in warmer weather.

[s/v Jedi]

Awlgrip in white also doesn’t need tipping if thinned right, but it doesn’t harm either and it is needed for darker colors.

Like Coopec writes, you need to get the right converter and thinner. There are only a handful of products that support rolling, make sure you get that right.

In case you consider spraying diy: these products are poisonous until they are cured and with spraying you atomize them which multiplies danger level. I would only do this outdoors with cartridge respirator; for indoor painting air supply respirator is recommended.

That said, the second problem is the equipment as you need a huge compressor. Then there is the steep learning curve.

For this there is a solution: you can use a HVLP Turbine spraying system like the Fuji Q5. This is very compact, much easier for beginners and it almost eliminates all overspray because of the very low pressure it uses.

For detail work you can even use a large airbrush like the Paasche H which has a 3” fan width. When there’s all edges, corners, fastener holes, hardware etc. they are all high risk for runs when brushing/rolling while spraying is effortless. You can combine this with rolling for large surfaces.

[Gary Mc]

I painted my deck a month ago with Interlux Perfection.

I just used a good quality brush and it came out very well, no pictures handy but am very happy with it.

It is very important to add their brush-able thinner, with that it goes on and levels our very nicely. They recommend two coats so will be doing another after a 320 grit sanding this fall.


With Perfection if there are some dull spots or runs you can buff it with 3M Imperial Compound and it comes out looking good.


Good luck!

[Miguelso]

I painted my previous boat topsides and deck with a paint called Signature finish. It is a two part urethane plus some kind of flow agent. I rolled is in and then another pass with a clean roller right after, kind of tipping but with another roller. I was really impressed with the results. I also learned that the painting was the easy part. Preparation is most of the work.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

I seem to recall thinning my boat 2-part urethane paint down...I believe it was MEK thinner....not sure than you can apply a two-part polyurethane straight from the pot with a roller and brush...without thinning it down....a spray gun will almost certainly require a thinner..it's all coming back now...

Yep. And you should see the mess that follows when someone doesn't follow the instructions on Interprotect 2000 Epoxy primer; doesn't thin it at all and then applies with a coarse brush.

It took them weeks to machine sand out the imperfections.

With all topcoats, 1- or 2-part, the fairness of the underlying surface is the main key to good results.

[Argyle38]

Dumb question, but I've never heard it addressed. Is it not possible to re-paint with gel-coat? It can be thinned enough to be sprayed on. It can certainly be repaired and buffed, and it's what most boats were originally 'painted' with.

Does it just not work, or is it just expensive with better options in other coatings?

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Argyle38

Dumb question, but I've never heard it addressed. Is it not possible to re-paint with gel-coat? It can be thinned enough to be sprayed on. It can certainly be repaired and buffed, and it's what most boats were originally 'painted' with.

Does it just not work, or is it just expensive with better options in other coatings?

I've seen it done by an amateur; spraying the transom of a Beneteau 45. Good results. Colour matching might be the issue, although if you're doing the whole thing...? I'm not sure of the cost.

[karkauai]

My 20 yr old Amel doesn't hold a shine anymore. I have polished and buffed and waxed and it looks pretty good for a month or two, then starts looking dingy again. With exhaust for both engine and generator on the beam, soot is a real issue. Does anyone have thoughts about paints and soot deposits? Awlgrip vs Awlgrip 2000 vs something else? I'd hate to paint the hull and have it be impossible to get the soot off.
Thanks for any thoughts.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by karkauai

My 20 yr old Amel doesn't hold a shine anymore. I have polished and buffed and waxed and it looks pretty good for a month or two, then starts looking dingy again. With exhaust for both engine and generator on the beam, soot is a real issue. Does anyone have thoughts about paints and soot deposits? Awlgrip vs Awlgrip 2000 vs something else? I'd hate to paint the hull and have it be impossible to get the soot off.
Thanks for any thoughts.

Awlgrip is the clear winner for that (soot will rinse off) but the new system discussed above may well be a better choice. Awlcraft 2000 is clearly not the best choice for you.

[karkauai]

Thanks Jedi, I kind of figured Awlgrip, I wonder if anyone has tested the new paint. Ill ask Practical Sailor what they know. If I learn anything I'll post again

[wingssail]

I'm finding this thread kinda interesting.

Our boat was originally painted with Imron, then we repainted in 1993 with Sterling, and in 2009 with Awlgrip. The Awlgrip was by far the nicest finish except for a flaw in the prep which showed up a few of years later (see below).

Now it needs new paint and that brings up the real critical aspect of a paint job: Prep.

My painter in 2009 gave a fixed price bid but he underestimated the hours of prep which were needed to fair out my beat-up old hull. In the end he ran out of time and money and he took a short cut which I was not smart enough to catch at the time. What he did was put on one last layer of filler (polyester) in some spots over an epoxy primer coat just to make the final fairing look perfect. Then he sprayed the Awlgrip.

The result was perfect, for about three years. Then the poly filler started to detach from the epoxy and you can read it though the topcoat.

Never mind, the price was good ($4600, including paint cost) but now I need to take all the Awlgrip off and re fair the hull. That is the expensive part. The inexpensive part is the actual spraying of the paint.

The last thing I need to decide is whether to use Imron again (which the best local painter loves and we had in before) or Awlgrip, which I love due to it's great look. The Sterling we did in 1993 which was OK, but nothing equals Awlgrip. The Awlgrip was by far the best result, if only the prep had been perfect I would not need new paint now. Live and learn.

Awlgrip looks beautiful:

[coopec43]

I haven't read all the posts but I am intrigued at the comments of people saying they have their boat sprayed with two part paint.

In Australia that would be illegal as the over-spray is quite dangerous and I would be amazed if any marina would allow it.

Dangers of inhaling spray paint

Short term health effects can include irritation contact dermatitis, burns to the skin and eyes, vomiting and diarrhea, irritation to the nose, throat and lungs, headaches, dizziness, nausea, and fatigue.Jul 31, 2019


Sorry if other people have already pointed this out.

[Gary Mc]

Originally Posted by karkauai

My 20 yr old Amel doesn't hold a shine anymore. I have polished and buffed and waxed and it looks pretty good for a month or two, then starts looking dingy again. With exhaust for both engine and generator on the beam, soot is a real issue. Does anyone have thoughts about paints and soot deposits? Awlgrip vs Awlgrip 2000 vs something else? I'd hate to paint the hull and have it be impossible to get the soot off.
Thanks for any thoughts.

You might try buffing with 3M Imperial compound, the stuff is amazing. It brings out the shine on old gel coat that last for years.


My 1984 boat was very dull when I bought it and could not get a shine no matter how hard I tried. Used Ploy Glow for years then took that off and buffed with the 3M, 5 years ago. People still comment on how shiny the hull is still.


Good Luck

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by karkauai

My 20 yr old Amel doesn't hold a shine anymore. I have polished and buffed and waxed and it looks pretty good for a month or two, then starts looking dingy again. With exhaust for both engine and generator on the beam, soot is a real issue. Does anyone have thoughts about paints and soot deposits? Awlgrip vs Awlgrip 2000 vs something else? I'd hate to paint the hull and have it be impossible to get the soot off.
Thanks for any thoughts.

It it currently gel coat?

If so, literally ANY boat can look like the day it was built if you do it the right way, using the right products.

There is only one set of products that will work at that level.

Take Collinite Fiberglass boat cleaner and work it to a brilliant shine.

Next, apply and buff off Collinite Fleet way to protect that shine. This has to be done BY HAND for best results.

I can restore literally any boat to brand new shine with these products.

It takes a lot of buffing/scrubbing, but it’s way cheaper than Awlgrip. LOL.

Hire people if you don’t want to do it.