Best Wood Sealer (That Isn't Epoxy)

[Chotu]

I've done the maths. All the maths.

Figured out lowest weight, lowest cost way to build cabinetry is marine ply (1/4" or 3/8") with a little stick framing to support.

I'll attach my messy sheet detailing all the options for panels in case it helps anyone at some point.

Question: Assuming I use ply, what is the best way to make it inert and long lasting in humidity and greatly changing temperatures?

I'm looking for mostly extremely smooth, glossy white finish. Inside cabinets, it's ok to have bare wood, except it needs to be sealed up well like you'd do with epoxy. But not epoxy. Just in case a leak drips on it or something.

Options I know of:

Polyester resin
Paint (what kind do I use in the shower? Primer? Spray? Roll and tip?)

[Chotu]

Just updating this thread with findings. In case anyone is interested. I just won’t use any type of wood where the shower is. I will use the more expensive foam and Formica panels. Then use wood in other locations.

[pilott]

I painted the inside of my fridge with bilgecote. It seems to be holding up very well

[Benz]

I seal interior plywood with varnish, which can be painted over with any paint you like. Also the Interlux one-part primer (comes white or gray), seems to do pretty well. Anyplace that's likely to be wet I won't use ply. Linseed-oiled doug fir is what's on my companion stairs and cabin sole.

[slug]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I've done the maths. All the maths.

Figured out lowest weight, lowest cost way to build cabinetry is marine ply (1/4" or 3/8") with a little stick framing to support.

I'll attach my messy sheet detailing all the options for panels in case it helps anyone at some point.

Question: Assuming I use ply, what is the best way to make it inert and long lasting in humidity and greatly changing temperatures?

I'm looking for mostly extremely smooth, glossy white finish. Inside cabinets, it's ok to have bare wood, except it needs to be sealed up well like you'd do with epoxy. But not epoxy. Just in case a leak drips on it or something.

Options I know of:

Polyester resin
Paint (what kind do I use in the shower? Primer? Spray? Roll and tip?)

Are you allergic to amine or polymide epoxy

Normally allergies are caused by the Catalyst

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by pilott

I painted the inside of my fridge with bilgecote. It seems to be holding up very well

Is the substrate material wood in your fridge? What's below the Bilgekote?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by slug

Are you allergic to amine or polymide epoxy

Normally allergies are caused by the Catalyst

Definitely the amine hardeners. That's what gets me.

I've never seen or tried an amide hardener. Would love to find something I can use, but I'm awfully scared to get another life threatening anaphylactic reaction experimenting with what I am and am not allergic to.

[CarlF]

Interior woodwork, except in the bilge, really doesn’t need anything more than paint or varnish. To save money get something at Home Depot (exterior with UV is a different story)

But if you want more, why not epoxy? I’d use CPES (like water going on). Then paint or varnish for cosmetics and UV protection where needed.

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

And be sure to use a high quality ply bought from a place that specializes in marine ply. Some “marine ply” is junk. Good Okoume is a joy to work with. https://www.boulterplywood.com/

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by CarlF

Interior woodwork, except in the bilge, really doesn’t need anything more than paint or varnish. To save money get something at Home Depot (exterior with UV is a different story)

But if you want more, why not epoxy? I’d use CPES (like water going on). Then paint or varnish for cosmetics and UV protection where needed.

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

And be sure to use a high quality ply bought from a place that specializes in marine ply. Some “marine ply” is junk. Good Okoume is a joy to work with. https://www.boulterplywood.com/

Whoops. Forgot to mention the epoxy allergy in the opening post of this thread.

Yes, I've used plenty of Okoume from Boulter for various things. All sealed with epoxy. In fact, that's where the pricing and weights in my panel data came from above. Good stuff.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Definitely the amine hardeners. That's what gets me.

I've never seen or tried an amide hardener. Would love to find something I can use, but I'm awfully scared to get another life threatening anaphylactic reaction experimenting with what I am and am not allergic to.

I wonder if there's an allergy test that could be run for that kind of stuff? If so, you'd be able to get a handle on what is and isn't safe without taking the risk of just trying it.

[slug]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Definitely the amine hardeners. That's what gets me.

I've never seen or tried an amide hardener. Would love to find something I can use, but I'm awfully scared to get another life threatening anaphylactic reaction experimenting with what I am and am not allergic to.

For paint and sealing try a water based two component polymide epoxy primer

These epoxy seem to cause fewer allergic reactions

Many around

This is a popular brand in North America

https://www.systemthree.com/products...SAAEgKew_D_BwE

[Stewie12]

Marine ply does not have any knots in it that could pop out if the hull hit a big wave or something like that. That is the only thing that makes it marine and more expensive. As suggested interior ply will be just as good and less expensive.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by Stewie12

Marine ply does not have any knots in it that could pop out if the hull hit a big wave or something like that. That is the only thing that makes it marine and more expensive. As suggested interior ply will be just as good and less expensive.

Marine plywood should also be hardwood, and the adhesive used to make it is waterproof. There's a lot more to it than being knot free.

Still, there are grades of marine plywood. My Bristol has Bruynzeel teak plywood bulkheads, the best you can get - and even those will rot if continuously submerged.

[slug]

The issue with plywood is end grain

If you can waterproof the edges marine ply is very durable

When I was a kid I had a Douglas fir marine ply skiff

That skiff had no modern sealers, only house paint

The skiff still exists Very little deterioration

The skiff is No long a boat....it’s a flower bed

[Exctyengr]

i do a bit of woodworking both on and off boats. I do like CPES but with your allergy, I would use a shellac based sanding sealer, or if you are going to paint anyway use stain kill again shellac based. It penetrates the wood and seals it you can put two or more coats on in a day, a light sanding (I use 180 grit) and you are good to paint.