Best Wood Sealer (That Isn't Epoxy)

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Exctyengr

i do a bit of woodworking both on and off boats. I do like CPES but with your allergy, I would use a shellac based sanding sealer, or if you are going to paint anyway use stain kill again shellac based. It penetrates the wood and seals it you can put two or more coats on in a day, a light sanding (I use 180 grit) and you are good to paint.

Nice!

I may have the epoxy/glass/foam/wood thing down, but woodworking is not one of the things I understand.

Thank you for the tip on how to best seal the wood.

Stain kill is this product, correct?


https://www.kilz.com/

That's my best bet for holding a final paint coat on wood in steamy, damp conditions?

[Ramona]

I would suggest the clear floor sealers instead of varnish.

[s/v Jedi]

This is for inside right? I would go for Tung Oil or varnish. I would even try to mix Epifanes varnish with Tung Oil and do some test pieces with different mix ratios. If it’s too glossy, you can get Epifanes in satin or mat as well.

[Chotu]

I'm trying to paint the wood very high gloss white and have it last through the extreme heat a closed boat gets, extreme humidity and a port or hatch leak that may happen while a boat is unattended for 6 months.

This is all interior joinery

[rbk]

Best for painting wood is an alkyd (oil) based paint usually sold as metal paint these days (at least in Canada) Like Rustoleum, Tremclad, Armorcoat etc. They are essentially a pigmented varnish and most stores can do custom colours. Thin the first one or two coats to get it to penetrate the wood then full flow, sanding between coats just like varnish. It is way more durable, excellent colour and gloss retention, resists staining, UV and so on. It does require proper ventilation when applying but when you finish your first full flow coat and it levels off you’ll see why it’s worth the little bit of extra work.

[CaptRory]

Tried and True Original Finish. All natural bees wax thinned with boiled linseed oil. No VOC's, FDA food safe.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by CaptRory

Tried and True Original Finish. All natural bees wax thinned with boiled linseed oil. No VOC's, FDA food safe.

That takes gloss white paint well? Seems it would peel right off a waxy first coat.

[CaptRory]

No, I guess I misunderstood. It's a good, easy, water resistant finish. You can't paint it.

[Exctyengr]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Nice!

I may have the epoxy/glass/foam/wood thing down, but woodworking is not one of the things I understand.

Thank you for the tip on how to best seal the wood.

Stain kill is this product, correct?


https://www.kilz.com/

That's my best bet for holding a final paint coat on wood in steamy, damp conditions?

Personally, I am partial to Zinsser products, they have a cover stain primer that works very well, again shellac based so you can cover coat with either an oil or water based final finish (I prefer oil). Now the other product that I have used to paint a boat is Interlux pre-coat. That's oil based and takes awhile to dry. You can find Zinsser stuff at any Ace hardware, don't think Home Depot has it any more. Now, I am suggesting a shellac based product because it goes on fast and you can recoat quickly. It's also comparatively cheap but that's a minor consideration. BTW, I usually roll it on with a 4" roller then tip with a 2" foam brush. I suggest two/three coats of primer, light sanding then 3/4 coats of finish. Be careful with gloss, it will show every imperfection, and below decks it can be a bit stark. But your call.

[slug]

Originally Posted by Chotu

That takes gloss white paint well? Seems it would peel right off a waxy first coat.

At the shipyard , for painted surfaces ...they primer the wood ....Then they take fiberglass body filler, a wide steel blade and scim the primed wood surface

This polyester body filler scim fills the open plywood grain

Then they sand flush and topcoat

The result is perfect

[SteveSadler]

Polyester resin was the norm in boatbuilding 50 yrs ago and I didn't see any delamination problems with it. any oil based primer will likely suffice as well. Epoxy resin is just the best. If you can't apply it, maybe hire someone?

[GeneM]

I like gel coat. It's inexpensive ($25 a qt.) and easy to work. If you want a well sealed white cabinet inside, it's a good choice.

Get solvent resistant rollers from Ace or others and change them often.

Use a very good mask and a blower for ventilation. The polyester base irritates, but the smell goes away completely.

Make sure the gel coat has wax (not really wax - I think). If not, you have to add wax. It gives a shiny, slick finish.

Be sure to use only the right amount of hardener (maybe less than rec) or it will harden up fast.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by GeneM

I like gel coat. It's inexpensive ($25 a qt.) and easy to work. If you want a well sealed white cabinet inside, it's a good choice.

Get solvent resistant rollers from Ace or others and change them often.

Use a very good mask and a blower for ventilation. The polyester base irritates, but the smell goes away completely.

Make sure the gel coat has wax (not really wax - I think). If not, you have to add wax. It gives a shiny, slick finish.

Be sure to use only the right amount of hardener (maybe less than rec) or it will harden up fast.

Yes, I've done polyester. It's now my resin of choice.

Question:. What's the best way to apply gel coat (or flow coat, as I believe it's called) when you're doing it as the top coat?

Roll and tip? Just roll? Want to mostly have it looking like paint when done with maybe a little bit of light polishing to do. To bring out the shine.

Not lumpy with lots of sanding to do.

Is this good for the shower and wood there too?

[GeneM]

I imagined you were gelling over wood. If so, just roll it on. Some care will be needed on an upper surface. I find roll and tip to be unworkable especially if doing it alone.

Don't polish. The gel should give a smooth finish.

If going over another surface, rough it up with 150 grit. I hear you can't gel over epoxy, but I have no experience there.

I wouldn't use gel for a shower, but it could work if thick enough.

I would tend to use two part
epoxy for a shower. I like Interlux Perfection. It's a hard paint but Awlgrip is harder.

Two part is very involved, but worth it. Be sure to mix it the way they say and roll it thick. Be more concerned about dry roller spots than runs and sags.

[s/v Jedi]

I believe that the finish you are looking for comes from a linear polyurethane top coat. Awlgrip, Interlux Perfection etc.

Second best, a one part polyurethane top coat: Interlux Brightside, Total Boat Wet Edge etc.

The gap to the rest is big. The problem is gonna be the primer.

I do not believe you’re gonna get what you want from a polyester flow coat. It will require sanding all the way up to 400 grit, then polishing up through the grits, it’s a hellish job when there’s corners etc.