Westerbeke generator - needs new glow plugs

[Jbingham]

Either way the fact this is an issue only related to hard starting should eliminate a fuel issue no?

[Exile]

Originally Posted by Jbingham

Either way the fact this is an issue only related to hard starting should eliminate a fuel issue no?

On mine, if that fuel solenoid is not pushed all the way in, it is very difficult if not impossible to start. That is, after all, the purpose or the solenoid, namely to stop the engine from running by cutting off its fuel supply. This is just one of several components that could be at fault, but it's an easy one to check.

[Wonderinlost]

I believe to test the glowplugs see if it makes a complete circuit with a ohm meter. If the circut is complete then see if the relay is sending power to the glowplugs upon activating that circut.

Edit: Mispelled the with tbe.

[tdoster]

Simple test is if your glow plugs are working, you will see a big spike on the voltmeter when depressing the switch. The voltage should be the same at the plugs as it is at the switch, if not, check the circuit.

Another thing to check is the older Westerbekes used a trailer type connector to connect the panel to the engine. The contacts are subject to corrosion, and should at the least disconnect and squirt WD40 once or twice a season.

When you depress the glow plug switch, you will hear a click, that is the solenoid that opens the fuel delivery. Have someone hit the switch while you are making sure it depresses fully.

The electric lift pump is also subject to issues. Check and clean the filter. A weak lift pump is not good for the injection pump as it is not made to pull in fuel.

I have seen the generator run off a T fitting from the tank and fuel essentially sucked back.

We have a secondary switch that controls the electric lift pump, so able to turn it on for a few minutes before the warming the glow plugs and found this solved a lot of problems, especially after changing a filter to allow it to auto bleed without cycling the glow plugs.

Turn off the seacock that feeds the generator until it starts. This will wear impellors fast, but save your engine from water backing up into the cylinders. I prefer to remove the hose from the mixer and allow it to drain into the bilge until the first start.

[Jbingham]

Originally Posted by tdoster

Simple test is if your glow plugs are working, you will see a big spike on the voltmeter when depressing the switch. The voltage should be the same at the plugs as it is at the switch, if not, check the circuit.

Another thing to check is the older Westerbekes used a trailer type connector to connect the panel to the engine. The contacts are subject to corrosion, and should at the least disconnect and squirt WD40 once or twice a season.

When you depress the glow plug switch, you will hear a click, that is the solenoid that opens the fuel delivery. Have someone hit the switch while you are making sure it depresses fully.

The electric lift pump is also subject to issues. Check and clean the filter. A weak lift pump is not good for the injection pump as it is not made to pull in fuel.

I have seen the generator run off a T fitting from the tank and fuel essentially sucked back.

We have a secondary switch that controls the electric lift pump, so able to turn it on for a few minutes before the warming the glow plugs and found this solved a lot of problems, especially after changing a filter to allow it to auto bleed without cycling the glow plugs.

should the volt meter go up or down when you switch the plugs on? i would have thought down but interestingly enough it goes UP?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Jbingham

should the volt meter go up or down when you switch the plugs on? i would have thought down but interestingly enough it goes UP?

Somethings wrong, You don't put a high amp drain on a battery and have the voltage increase or maybe if your on shore power your battery charger "sees" the current drain and kicks in or something?

[tdoster]

Originally Posted by Jbingham

should the volt meter go up or down when you switch the plugs on? i would have thought down but interestingly enough it goes UP?

Glow plugs put a considerable drain on the battery and should see a marked decrease in voltage when you hit the switch. If not, then start working your way through the circuit. Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the engine. Put the red contact on a non red painted portion of the bar (you may have to unscrew one of the thumb screws on one of the glow plugs) and the black on a good ground point and have someone hit the switch. If you are getting good voltage there, then you may have bad plugs and they should be tested individually and replaced accordingly.

If you are not getting voltage, then start checking the circuit starting with the wire harness plug.

[redsky49]

Sorry to take so long to post a pic of the (potential) problem relay. In any case, here is the new replacement relay on my small Westerbeke genny that serves the glow plugs as well as the fuel pump. The item in question is the small brown device in roughly the center of the pic.

[tdoster]

The piece that is not painted Westerbeke Red is the solenoid for the circuit. Just above it is a circuit breaker. Check that breaker.

If you are not getting voltage to the glowplugs, breaker, solenoid, wiring.

If you are getting voltage then you have to find the plug(s) that are either dead or not getting voltage.

You should be able to find a wiring diagram on the Westerbeke site. Use that with a voltmeter to determine where in the circuit you are not getting power. Solenoid is easy to spot in redsky49's post as it is not painted Westerbeke Red.

[redsky49]

Originally Posted by tdoster

The piece that is not painted Westerbeke Red is the solenoid for the circuit. Just above it is a circuit breaker. Check that breaker.

If you are not getting voltage to the glowplugs, breaker, solenoid, wiring.

If you are getting voltage then you have to find the plug(s) that are either dead or not getting voltage.

You should be able to find a wiring diagram on the Westerbeke site. Use that with a voltmeter to determine where in the circuit you are not getting power. Solenoid is easy to spot in redsky49's post as it is not painted Westerbeke Red.

Actually, that is Chrysler red. I pulled the genny in 2005/2006 and replaced the heat exchanger (with a non-factory unit), all the hoses and service items, etc., etc., wire brushed the rust and re-painted the engine. Chrysler red engine paint was a perfect match for the original paint.

Not sure that the circuit breaker location (above the solenoid on my generator) is typical. The OP may have to poke around a bit to find it.

[Jbingham]

Luckily it was just the glow plugs. Runs like charm now!!!! Great insight all around and very helpful for troubleshooting any future challenges. Thanks all!

[Greg4cocokai]

Originally Posted by redsky49

Just had this very same issue with my Westerbeke generator. It was the relay that controls the glow plugs. Check your manual for the location and verify its operation.

Same with our 7.6 BTD. Had an identical spare for our Perkins starter motor. Much easier to start now