The pulley gets removed with a puller, but can be pressed off with an arbor press. There's a clip on the pulley front that needs to be removed first (not there on new pumps). Then there's a clip the holds the shaft in position that comes off before the shaft is pressed out from the pulley side. It comes out seal, shaft and impeller as one unit. You press the bearing out after removing the bearing clip. Keep track of the part order. There's a spacer and water
thrower. It needs to go back the way it came out.
There's 2 seals
. A ceramic seal next to the impeller and a felt seal between the bearings and housing. The ceramic seal is the one leaking water
. The felt seal is to keep the bearing grease in place.
You should be able to find a PDF of the service
manual on line. boatdiesel.com is one place. I'd upload here but the file is too big for cruisers. As I remember the the shaft is a USA size. Any good bearing supply should be able to match the ones in the pump. The bearings will have a stamped in number. I use a Arbor Press for pressing on and off parts
. Most auto parts
stores have a bearing press. I have 5 diesels I take care of with 9 pumps. The first time I buy bearings and seals
, I get spares so I'm ready for next time. I keep rebuilt spare pumps for the boat
The bearings can be open or sealed. The pump originally had open ball bearings and part of the process was to pack grease in the bearings. But since there's no way to regrease the bearings once the pump is together, sealed bearings work
fine, I've used both kinds. Replace the bearings. They're probably why the seal failed. Last time I did a coolant pump, the bearings and seal were under $15.
A new pump is about $80 at www.parts4engines.com