Head removal of Perkins 4.108

[pr2501]

Water leaked past the vanes in the salt water pump under marina water pressure, filled the exhaust manifold and entered the cylinders through whichever exhaust valves were open.

Next time I will use barrel for water in which i will put pipe connected to salt water pump.
My I presume that marina water pressure did not make any damage to the vanes in the salt water pump? I mean is there something that I have to do about it?

In the shop they did find that my crank shaft is in good condition and also the camshaft. They did also teach me how to check rings gap and clearance in groove. I will do it tomorrow.

Lifeofreilly57 I know about TAD. I am in contact with them. There is a problem with customs here in Panama. Because of taxes and time which they need.
But maybe I will need only head gasket, because I have one which did got little of rust on metal part.

[model 10]

No damage. I'm surprised you didn't see or hear something. That pump is not made to hold marina water pressure. I know my cover plate would leak. It's on the verge of leaking with no pressure.

[pr2501]

I need explanation of cooling system.

I understand that here we don't have air to cool the water for cooling of engine, but the salt water.


On my Perkings 4.108 salt water is also cooling transmission oil.

I will draw some pictures in the next hour.

[pr2501]

In attached picture raw water is blue and green is internal engine water.

This is the way I understand it.

In previous post I made a mistake.

On my Perkings 4.108 salt water is also cooling transmission oil.

Internal water is cooling the transmission.

[pr2501]

I'm surprised you didn't see or hear something.

I was not on the boat.

[skipperpete]

Get the crankshaft shop guys to check the connecting rods, there's a fair chance that prior to the stripdown you had a hydraulic lock in at least one cylinder if you tried to start the engine while it was flooded.

[rbthorson]

Once you get to the point of disassembly, make sure you take plenty of photos along the way. They will be invaluable during reassembly.

[pr2501]

rbthorson thank you. I had a hydraulic lock in at least one cylinder.

My rings gap for 4 cylinders is between 0,7 and 0,9 mm for top compression.
Manual says 0.432 is max.

I am still waiting for time estimation of custom to process the shipment here in Panama.
I hope I will be able to go on and order new parts as kit.

Can you understand my schematics of cooling system?

Is it correct?

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by pr2501

rbthorson thank you. I had a hydraulic lock in at least one cylinder.

My rings gap for 4 cylinders is between 0,7 and 0,9 mm for top compression.
Manual says 0.432 is max.

I am still waiting for time estimation of custom to process the shipment here in Panama.
I hope I will be able to go on and order new parts as kit.

Can you understand my schematics of cooling system?

Is it correct?

Just because you had water in the cylinder doesn't mean you 'hydraulically locked' the engine, even if you tried to turn it over. The force required to bend a rod is quite substantial, and even if you did attempt to start it, you'd probably have noticed something very wrong immediately, and the engine would never have started. Since you have the engine apart it is very easy to check the rods for straightness; very often it can be seen with the 'naked eye', the machine shop can certainly measure them, and even in the bush a determination can usually be made by comparing them with each other.

Are you measuring the old rings or do you already have new ones? If old, the mismatch to spec probably is just normal wear, and new rings will have a smaller gap which may need to be filed to fit.

If new, I hesitate to advise, best to talk to the machine shop.

Without knowing the actual setup of your engine it's hard to say if your diagram is correct. Some engines, even from the factory, are fitted with different components, plus there are many different aftermarket systems available.

Without descriptions of the various components it is even more difficult. I've added descriptions of what I think they are, but am uncertain because they don't strictly match with what would be expected with the 'piping' illustrated.

Perhaps you could repost with the actual descriptions and things will make more sense. Pictures of the various components might also help.

[pr2501]

I can waggly remember that when I started the engine it did make let's say one turn around and then it stopped. I did try again for just an instant and it could not move.

I went then down from cockpit to engine and tryed to move it manually on crank shaft bolt. As it was not rotating in clockwise direction I tried in contrary clockwise. And again in clockwise direction. At that instant water squirted from intake manifold.

As I have go back to the shop for some work on injection pump (corrosion made some damage between injection pump housing and high pressure pipes connection element(we will discus it latter))
I will ask them to check piston rods.

My cylinder/piston rings are old one. The bigger gab is pointing me to buying and installing of new liners, pistons and rings.

I will upload image of cooling elements in moment.

[pr2501]

Attached illustration is cooling system of my Perkins 4.108

Does it fit to some logic?

[jimbunyard]

A revised drawing.

Makes more sense now, but unless there is a cooler inside the transmission, it seems oil should be in the lines to and from the cooler, as shown in the revised drawing. Doesn't mean it has to, just that it would be more efficient. Also found this while kicking around the internet, are you sure you have a 4108 and not a 4107? Could be either, or that you have an early model 4108...second picture is a 4107.

[pr2501]

I was to ask about transmission cooling medium.
What sense would it have to have a cooler then. Transmission could be then connected directly to heat exchanger on one side and to engine block/water pump on the other side, if the cooling medium would be the same. But I can remember that when I disconnected the pipes same green water (antifreeze) come out from pipes as it came from header tank.
I think I will have to return to transmission latter. Also because as I did mentioned before I have oil leak problems.

My engine number is:
ED 22195 U
558681 G

[pr2501]

And are 36178509 plate camshaft trust need to be replaced?
In the catalog there is 0610844 pin trust plate locating. I can not remember about it.
Have I lost it?

[pr2501]

What about next parts. How could I check them.
31134137 Bushing idle gear
0050323 Bearing for injection pump gear drive hub.
Is it "vital" part?