Head removal of Perkins 4.108

[pr2501]

Forget about 0610844 pin trust plate locating. It is on the engine block.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by pr2501

What about next parts. How could I check them.
31134137 Bushing idle gear
0050323 Bearing for injection pump gear drive hub.
Is it "vital" part?

The idler gear bushing and inj pump drive hub bushing are of course 'vital', as are all the other parts.

Since they are both subject to only rotary motion it is unlikely that they are worn enough to require replacement. As the service manual advises, examine them carefully for cracking, pitting or excessive wear (which you could take to mean obviously abnormal play or 'wobblieness'). Unless you had a serious oiling problem, again, it is unlikely that they are a problem.

Did a little research on your gear, it is either a Velvet Drive 71c or 72c with a reduction unit. The only way I could find to tell which is which (unless there is a tag on the unit) is by weight; the 71c weighs 145 lbs dry, the 72c weighs 153.

The cooler is external, the lines should be carrying gear oil to the cooler.

Borg Warner transmission manual here (thanks bletso)
http://69.89.27.238/~sailboa1/wp-con...ive-Manual.pdf

[pr2501]

Thank you

I have attached image of transmission tag.

I had a leak from transmission. In 150 hours I lost one gallon of oil.
But I could not locate where it was from, because diesel was also leaking from injection pump. And all bottom area of engine was wet.
Just all was in bilge.

My intention was to solve this together with engine rebuilding, but now when is time for action I have no idea how to locate the leaking. Especially when I can not run the engine.


Is it hard to get bolt on transmission coupling to replace oil seal on the shaft?

Tomorrow I will order it with all other parts. Until now I have on the list with rebuilt kit also oil pump and injector washers. What would you suggest me to buy also?

And another problem: Does the injector fixing element not have its own catalog number?
(second image)

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by pr2501

Thank you

I have attached image of transmission tag.

I had a leak from transmission. In 150 hours I lost one gallon of oil.
But I could not locate where it was from, because diesel was also leaking from injection pump. And all bottom area of engine was wet.
Just all was in bilge.

My intention was to solve this together with engine rebuilding, but now when is time for action I have no idea how to locate the leaking. Especially when I can not run the engine.


Is it hard to get bolt on transmission coupling to replace oil seal on the shaft?

Tomorrow I will order it with all other parts. Until now I have on the list with rebuilt kit also oil pump and injector washers. What would you suggest me to buy also?

And another problem: Does the injector fixing element not have its own catalog number?
(second image)

Well having the tag makes it easy to identify, it's a 72c with a 2.10 reduction.

Regarding leaks, it shouldn't be too hard to replace the front and rear seals, the nut on the rear should come off easy enough with the impact wrench. If you have to take off either the front housing or rear reduction unit to remove the seals, you'll also need the gaskets to replace them.

There could also be leaks from the hoses at either the cooler or the transmission; if the transmission is overfilled it will leak from the breather. Follow the manual for disassembly if needed. Seals can often be replaced without pulling the gear apart by drilling a small hole in the metal part of the seal, screwing in a small, appropriately-sized sheet metal screw, and popping the old seal out with a small clawed device. Care is needed to avoided screwing up the sealing surfaces though.

Parts are available from Marine Parts Express, and are listed in the manual.

These are what I came up with, you should double check me before ordering or let the MPE people figure them out.

rear

10-00-044-017 seal
L4-146 gasket
L4-145 gasket

front

10-00-044-014 seal
3-61 gasket


The injector hold down is not listed because it comes with the injector.

The hold down is available from Parts 4 Engines for 45.00, but since rebuilt are available from them for 65.00 with core, or 90.00 without, it doesn't seem to make much sense to not just replace the whole injector.

[pr2501]

Isn't Parts 4 Engines in UK?
I have to order over agency from Miami because I am in Panama.

I think transmission leak will have to wait.

[jimbunyard]

Marine Parts Express is in the US and has the Borg Warner parts.

Borg Warner Schematics - Marine Parts Express




The injectors were from Parts 4 Engines, which is in the UK, and they supposedly ship worldwide, though they're available from many places in the US as well, some even slightly cheaper than those quoted.


https://oregonfuelinjection.com/shop...change-nha-bg/

[rbk]

Wow that’s a good price. Thanks Jim

[pr2501]

Thank you.

[pr2501]

To get injector for 50$ you have to send one old to them.

As long as your core is rebuildable, you will get your $50.00 back.

As I have broken flange this option is not valid for me. I will have to pay 100$
to get another one.

If I get a flange from some worthless injector , would I be able then to repair my with it?

[rbk]

Originally Posted by pr2501

To get injector for 50$ you have to send one old to them.

As long as your core is rebuildable, you will get your $50.00 back.

As I have broken flange this option is not valid for me. I will have to pay 100$
to get another one.

If I get a flange from some worthless injector , would I be able then to repair my with it?

You can buy the flanges online as well. A broken flange does not mean it is useless. I keep a spare flange on board in case they break as rebuilt ones tend to break when you look at the wrong.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by pr2501

To get injector for 50$ you have to send one old to them.

As long as your core is rebuildable, you will get your $50.00 back.

As I have broken flange this option is not valid for me. I will have to pay 100$
to get another one.

If I get a flange from some worthless injector , would I be able then to repair my with it?

Certainly. My point was that a new flange from, for instance, Parts 4 Engines, is 44.00, essentially the price of the core charge, so why not just get a rebuilt one.

If you can get an old one from a scrapped injector locally that will be your best option, if you know your old injector is good and if it isn't damaged by disassembling it.

It is likely that the flange is made from forged gray iron, and is probably brittle right out of the box. I might be tempted to make one out of steel of the appropriate thickness; if the part is as uncomplicated as it looks (or hard to find locally), it would be easy enough with a drill and a hacksaw (or, better yet, a drill press and a 4 1/2" grinder). It might be less rigid at first, and require retorquing (though I doubt it if of the appropriate thickness), but if it is it should stabilize after the second retorque.

[pr2501]

Hierro fundido in english is molten iron.
That's what in the shop where they did check my cranck shaft were teling me flange is of.
They will make me new one. I have to bring another injector with the flange, so they will then make the copy of the flange.

They took apart botom part of injector. When I will have new flage I will have to put it back and also the botom part. It does not look nothing special to me. Or I am wrong?

[rbk]

Which flange on the crank? They’re making you a new crank or injector flange? Inj flange should be fairly straight forward as long as same depth and angle are met. As I said before be careful grinding the crank as Perkins used a tufftrided crank and most local shops cannot complete the hardening process required after grinding. You’d have to check the serial number to determine if it was in fact tufftrided or induction (very few were induction).

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by pr2501

Hierro fundido in english is molten iron.
That's what in the shop where they did check my cranck shaft were teling me flange is of.
They will make me new one. I have to bring another injector with the flange, so they will then make the copy of the flange.

They took apart botom part of injector. When I will have new flage I will have to put it back and also the botom part. It does not look nothing special to me. Or I am wrong?

Hierro fundido is generally cast iron, if they're made from cast iron I can certainly understand why they break. In that application they should be at least forged, but who knows what they're actually made from.

It is likely that the shop will make it from plate steel which is in my opinion entirely adequate (and probably better) if it is of roughly the same thickness. Doesn't look like anything special to me either.

Originally Posted by rbk

Which flange on the crank? They’re making you a new crank or injector flange? Inj flange should be fairly straight forward as long as same depth and angle are met. As I said before be careful grinding the crank as Perkins used a tufftrided crank and most local shops cannot complete the hardening process required after grinding. You’d have to check the serial number to determine if it was in fact tufftrided or induction (very few were induction).

Be interesting to see them make a new crank, but the purpled section in the post shows they're just making a new flange...

[rbk]

Ahh Re-reading it a few times I understand what he’s saying. I’ve found the parts4engines flanges are better than those I’ve received on injectors from TAD. They machine the top face of the flange and it lets the nuts sit flush against it.