Fuel leak from on engine filter yanmar 3gm30f

[Gripfast]

This filter assembly is driving me crazy. Ruined one a couple years ago trying to get the bottom cup tight to stop a leak at the joint. Replaced the assembly then. Didnt leak for a year but at next change it began leaking.

Is there a special tool to tighten the nut on the assembly?

[Sailmonkey]

Here you go.


https://www.google.com/search?q=hook...&client=safari

Although I’m assuming you’re talking about the castellated nut on the yanmar secondary filter

[Gripfast]

Yes, I will get one and see if that will get it tight enough to stop the leak.

Thanks!

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Gripfast

This filter assembly is driving me crazy. Ruined one a couple years ago trying to get the bottom cup tight to stop a leak at the joint. Replaced the assembly then. Didnt leak for a year but at next change it began leaking.

Is there a special tool to tighten the nut on the assembly?

You do know you can ditch the dinky yanmar engine filter assembly & buy another filter holder & replace with spin on filters at 1/2 the price & 3x the life that dont leak?
We got a holder that takes a 5 Micron baldwin filter to replace the 10 micron Yanmar one.
Dont let Yanmar ream you unnecessarily is my motto.

[Gripfast]

Originally Posted by Compass790

You do know you can ditch the dinky yanmar engine filter assembly & buy another filter holder & replace with spin on filters at 1/2 the price & 3x the life that dont leak?
We got a holder that takes a 5 Micron baldwin filter to replace the 10 micron Yanmar one.
Dont let Yanmar ream you unnecessarily is my motto.

That is an even better idea. I added a raycor that I put 2 micron element in as the primary filter and located it upstream of the engine. I seldom touch the one on the engine becase the damn thing is prone to leaks so bad. But, getting ready to start a trip and I wanted to have all filters clean. The reuslt was it is leaking worse.

[ggray]

Originally Posted by Compass790

You do know you can ditch the dinky yanmar engine filter assembly & buy another filter holder & replace with spin on filters at 1/2 the price & 3x the life that dont leak?
We got a holder that takes a 5 Micron baldwin filter to replace the 10 micron Yanmar one.
Dont let Yanmar ream you unnecessarily is my motto.

That sounds like a good idea. Could you find another that would fit in the same place? Did you make new fuel lines?

My leak problem was not with the cannister bowl, but the bleed screws on the cannister. There doesn't seem to be much margin between being tight enough not to leak, and over too short a time, stripping the threads. Poor design IMHO, with a good portion of the female thread removed, thus easy to strip.

I thought about drilling it out for a larger bolt with the bleed groove cut in the bolt instead.

[dennismenace111]

Originally Posted by Gripfast

This filter assembly is driving me crazy. Ruined one a couple years ago trying to get the bottom cup tight to stop a leak at the joint. Replaced the assembly then. Didnt leak for a year but at next change it began leaking.

Is there a special tool to tighten the nut on the assembly?

Dont overtighten it... It probably just needs a new O ring... Over tightening can distort the housing.. or worse damage the threads.

I chased this same thing on mine till I changed out the O ring and the crush washers on the bleed screws to the proper size. I had washers on that were too big and they leaked around the threaded screw.

BUT DONT OVERTIGHTEN THAT CASTELATED NUT...

[dennismenace111]

Originally Posted by ggray

That sounds like a good idea. Could you find another that would fit in the same place? Did you make new fuel lines?

My leak problem was not with the cannister bowl, but the bleed screws on the cannister. There doesn't seem to be much margin between being tight enough not to leak, and over too short a time, stripping the threads. Poor design IMHO, with a good portion of the female thread removed, thus easy to strip.

I thought about drilling it out for a larger bolt with the bleed groove cut in the bolt instead.

Replace the crush washer on the bleed screws... made all the difference in the world on mine... take the screw with you to the hardware store and get the proper metric sized copper washer.

[bailsout]

Common problem with Yanmar. You think they would have come up with a better design. What do other manufacturers do?

[Gripfast]

I have the leak stopped. I had used a new OEM O-ring, but the old one really didnt show any issues. Its hard to tell what the real problem was but I also used PTFE tape on the junction and the threads, I also replaced the copper washers on the injector lines and the bleed screw. No leaks now.

[ilanortho]

Originally Posted by Compass790

You do know you can ditch the dinky yanmar engine filter assembly & buy another filter holder & replace with spin on filters at 1/2 the price & 3x the life that dont leak?
We got a holder that takes a 5 Micron baldwin filter to replace the 10 micron Yanmar one.
Dont let Yanmar ream you unnecessarily is my motto.

How would I go about finding such a replacement assembly for a 3GM30F?
Thanks

[Cadence]

Totally ignorant. I might guess replace the O ring and washer. Don't over tighten.

[jpstevens]

ilanortho,
I think many of us would be interested in the details and source of the filter and the accessories

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by ggray

That sounds like a good idea. Could you find another that would fit in the same place? Did you make new fuel lines?

My leak problem was not with the cannister bowl, but the bleed screws on the cannister. There doesn't seem to be much margin between being tight enough not to leak, and over too short a time, stripping the threads. Poor design IMHO, with a good portion of the female thread removed, thus easy to strip.

I thought about drilling it out for a larger bolt with the bleed groove cut in the bolt instead.

No I didnt care if it fitted in the same place, just wanted it to filter diesel & didnt want it mounted on our single banger anyway as it vibrates a lot.
I need to take pictures to show you filter as I'm away from boat at present & dont want to give incorrect information.
Yes I did put new fuel lines on as the 37 year old Yanmar one crumbled & yanmar wanted $136NZ for a 6" section of fuel line but I needed longer ones anyway.
You can get suitable fuel line from autoparts stores
The muck metal IS prone to stripping, another reason to ditch Yanmars filter assembly. Ours came pre-stripped from P.O.

I imagine ( but dont know ) that you can buy a spin on fuel filter mount from Baldwin but if you can't they have the thread sizes & dimensions of their filters on the website & you can look for one at a truck or auto supply place.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by jpstevens

ilanortho,
I think many of us would be interested in the details and source of the filter and the accessories

ok I'll be glad to help y'all escape yanmars predatory parts pricing as it's my vendetta.


The Filter is a Baldwin BF988 ( 5 micron nominal) cost $20NZ probably 1/2 that in the USA
Cant tell you what the mount is as it came with boat but its 16mmx 1.5mm thread. USA users would be better off to find an SAE thread base. It was the primary filter but I got a used $5 CAV type filter base & put an 18 micron primary filter on to use as primary & repurposed this one as engine filter.

yanmar filters cost $45 NZ & last for 100 hrs ( recommended change interval). The BF988 has done 300 hrs so far & my guess is it will do 1000hrs easy on our 8hp engine so should do at least 300 hrs on a 3GM30.

You can find fuel filter mount bases on Amazon or Ebay & then find a filter that fits from your favourite manufacturers website.


Sorry about the pic quality & orientation, I'm not 'puter savvy.
Ignore the squeeze bulb, thats for oil pre start priming.

Pics below of my easy to access setup.