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Suijin · 11-07-2019, 08:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennismenace111

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ! You'll be happier in the long run!

This is bad advice. Clean it up and paint it and you'll be in a much better position to quickly notice and diagnose oil, fuel, and cooling leaks in future. You'll be much happier in the long run with a clean, painted engine.

Cheechako · 11-07-2019, 08:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt. Rehab

there are many rust removers or converters but all benefit from a thorough degreasing First....Dont use wire brushes made of steel they will broadcast micro particles throughout bilge which Will rust. Certain Rust Removers convert leaving stable coating for primer others strip to clean metal Some of these disburb existing paint some do not. Its a foul job but oh so worth it!

It's a good point but really you are spreading steel all around the bilge anyway (rust /steel particles ) The brush is the least of the problem!

RaymondR · 11-07-2019, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Suijin

This is bad advice. Clean it up and paint it and you'll be in a much better position to quickly notice and diagnose oil, fuel, and cooling leaks in future. You'll be much happier in the long run with a clean, painted engine.

Yep, nothing worse than having to put the engine cover back on in a rush when visitors arrive.

zenith_adelaide · 12-07-2019, 16:23

Hi everyone. Thank you all for your advise. So what I think I will do is brush everything down. Those few lines certainly have to go. I have no idea what they are made of but don't look right to me. I will then look at getting one of the products suggested. Something that does not affect rubber, paint etc. Ospho sounds like an option but will not sure if it's available in Australia. Will check it out. The boat has been sitting on a mooring for 3 years, closed up and damp. The engine room was left closed with minor water in the bilge dripping in from the stuffing box keeping things humid. The motor started first up and I ran it for two hours in gear and just ran faultlessly. The boat is located at Kangaroo island with limited facilities and in the next tow weeks I will be moving about 70m to my home port in North Haven Adelaide and hauling it out for a closer look at things.

zenith_adelaide · 12-07-2019, 16:44

One quick question. Does Ospho 605 react with other materials like rubber, plastic, paint etc?

**a64pilot** · 12-07-2019, 16:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by zenith_adelaide

One quick question. Does Ospho 605 react with other materials like rubber, plastic, paint etc?

I don’t think so, but it’s available in liquid too to be brushed on.
If you go the liquid route pour it into a separate container, and don’t put that back into the original.
Reason I was told is that a tiny bit of iron oxide can neutralize the whole amount and once you brush it on and put that brush back into the liquid you have contaminated it with iron oxide.
Brush off the loose stuff but don’t take it all off, if you take it all off there is nothing for the osphoric acid to react with, so it takes rust to work.

If you brush it on you can be neat and not get it everywhere like spraying can. Same for the paint.
I can’t find Yanmar grey in anything but a spray bomb so I spray it into a bottle or something and paint it on with a brush.

Oh, and that product you have found the 605 is just a brand name of course, there are many, but the 605 appears to be good stuff
They work by chemically changing Iron Oxide into Iron Phosphate and this apparently stops the rust.

model 10 · 12-07-2019, 17:09

Ford has 2 different blues and neither one is an exact match for Perkins blue. When I rebuilt the engine I picked "new" Ford blue.

**Wotname** · 12-07-2019, 17:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by zenith_adelaide

..... Ospho sounds like an option but will not sure if it's available in Australia. Will check it out. .......

Most common home rust treatments are slight variations of phosphoric acid (AKA Orthophosphoric acid). Bunnings sells "Rust Convertor" (phosphoric acid). There are other brands. In larger quantities (>20 litres) you can get it under various trade manes

This is the same acid as used in the food industry (soft drinks etc).

mike d. · 12-07-2019, 17:26

From what I can see of your heat exchanger cap and elbow on the left side in the pic it looks like you have leakage problems, which could be the cause of paint condition ! Our water pump">raw water pump seal went bad, and the whole top of the bell housing, and tranny did what happened in your boat ! I used a pressure washer to get the scale off ! Boat was at home ! Then I used an salt neutralizer, then a rust inhibitor paint from KBS coatings here in the states (just a customer) ! Now you can't tell how bad the surface was ! Prep, Prep, Prep!

zenith_adelaide · 12-07-2019, 18:18

Has anyone heard or used feronite?

zenith_adelaide · 12-07-2019, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike d.

From what I can see of your heat exchanger cap and elbow on the left side in the pic it looks like you have leakage problems, which could be the cause of paint condition ! Our raw water pump seal went bad, and the whole top of the bell housing, and tranny did what happened in your boat ! I used a pressure washer to get the scale off ! Boat was at home ! Then I used an salt neutralizer, then a rust inhibitor paint from KBS coatings here in the states (just a customer) ! Now you can't tell how bad the surface was ! Prep, Prep, Prep!

Was it leaking for a while? or was it because it wasn't cleaned up? This engine really seems quite rusty on the outside. It looked like it would never work, however she fired up first turn with no fuss, no smoke. Idles well and everything. I left running for a couple of hour but did not see any leaks. Having said that it was just most spinning at about 1200rpm so never really got hot. I see what you mean about the cap and elbow and I will take a closer look at these. It's getting new oil and filter and will replace all hoses too.

**s/v Jedi** · 12-07-2019, 18:36

That engine can use some work with the needle gun before using Ospho or other chemicals. When you read their directions, you’ll find that mechanical removal comes first, then Ospho, then paint.

**Wotname** · 12-07-2019, 19:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by zenith_adelaide

Has anyone heard or used feronite?

I've heard of it but not used it. It is tannin based product and it is cathodic inhibitor while phosphoric acid is an anodic inhibitor.
It seems to have good following.

Here is one description https://boatcraft.com.au/information...owtheywork.php