Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Roy M]

Mark, from time to time I wonder what I'd do if there were a serious failure of the centerboard trunk, I know there are folks with more traditional construction techniques that have faced this problem. It might be a good idea for some of us Searunners to put together a plan for those who may face this issue in the future. I was thinking along the lines of fabricating the trunk, as I did, then taking a sawzall to the frames, hull, cockpit sole, etc., then reconstructing the union with epoxy and other materials. Have any of you other owners ever faced this dilemma? When I built mine, I used a pair of Delrin throughhull fittings for my centerboard axle gland. If I ever have to replace it with a bronze pair, flush-type face, I've come up with a pretty simple plan, but never a complete trunk replacement.

[Mark Johnson]

Roy,
My axle pin glands are also caulked in Delrin, but did not "start out" flush. For my re-glassing in there (after the fact), I made a flat fillet around the previously installed heads, so there is an 8" circle around the head of each one made of Silica bog, that ramps up to being flush with the head. Then it was sanded and glassed over X 2 layers.

The large hole in the board was glassed about 1/8th" thick, and then I caulked in there a 5" long slice of 1/4" thick rubber hose. Next I did the same "again" with an even smaller rubber hose. Now, the huge hole in the board was reduced to just larger than my 5/8" silicon bronze axle pin. The effect created with the double thick hose inserts, is an "impact bumper". Along with the buried and glassed over Delrin gland fittings, and the 3" dia. slice of hose on the trunk's forward end wall as a crash bumper, (per the design sheet). I have had no problems with several crash centerboard fly-ups. This is because I ALWAYS USE A FUSE! I did get a 1/16" deep gouge all along the side of the board once, from a crab pot line's barnacles, but it did not get to the wood, so I repaired it years later.

With the strength of my firmly attached 3/8" control lines, and my "now" 5,000 BL turning blocks, if I didn't have the line fused and hit something, it could tear out the sides of the trunk! One also does not want anything "loose" in the trunk, as the board comes flying up in a "hit", because it might JAMB next to the rapidly rising blade, so I try to make that end bulletproof. When my previous 3 turning blocks blew up, and the sheaves flew forward (as the board flew up), it was sheer luck that I didn't get a serious board & trunk damaging jamb!
Of coarse, like I said earlier, we are all vulnerable in reverse with the board down.

I would truly hate to have a big CB trunk failure, leak, or rot. They are relatively easy to make bomb proof in construction... partly out on a table, but a BITCH to repair. Many a Searunner has had problems here.

A REPEATED BUT IMPORTANT NOTE TO ALL:
It really helps close quarter maneuverability to have the board down when docking, but some basins are too shallow. I suggest that no one "backs up" with the board down, in marina basins that are shallow or new to them.
ALSO: in forward groundings or crab pot line collisions/snags... THOSE OF YOU WHO JUST "CLEAT OFF" YOUR CB CONTROL LINES, TAKE HEED: Use a fuse! A 1/8th" thick piece of parachute chord, tied to the winch end of your control line with a rolling hitch, becomes a perfect fuse. Cleat THIS chord, rather than the control line itself. It IS strong enough, but will pop easily on impact.

Our centerboards can be a pain in the ass, but in a conversation with John Marples, he expressed that: "daggerboards have no place on a cruising boats". I have come to agree with that sentiment. We had a friend in Pensacola docked next to us with a 54' gold plated Chris White cat, (pictured in the post "Ivan" photo). This guy spent every winter in Central America with his incredible rocket of a boat. He naturally hit things regularly with his high aspect carbon fiber daggerboards, and often came back with a broken board. Luckily, never both at the same time, so he could always get home. In his price bracket, he never worried, because he would just "hire" the broken boards repaired or replaced. This sort of expense, however, is not for us "mere mortals".

I prefer a centerboard! If I didn't like shallow anchorages so much, I could live with a keeled tri, but I do...

Roy,
I think that goop was called "Gluvit". I used it several times, back in the day... It was incredible stuff! Perhaps it was the best adhering and toughest of any resilient two part goos ever made. I wonder if it is still around?

Mark

[Mark Johnson]

OOPS! CORRECTION:
It hit me in the middle of the night, Roy. After sub consciously straining my memory from 40 years ago... I think that "Gluvit" was actually a penetrating 2 part epoxy, and the 2 part caulk stuff I was thinking of was called "CaulkTex". It was indeed, amazing stuff.

Now, if I could just find my car keys...
Mark

[Roy M]

Thanks, Mark. It was, indeed, CaulkTex. Great stuff with a distinctive odor.

[silviris]

Well, the dream died before it began. Not going to be acquiring the Searunner....finances just aren't there. Guess I'll try to find a trailer sailor that I can park at home and don't have to put much money into. Thank for all your helpful info, guys. Hopefully I'll be able to put it to use sometime in the future!

[Roy M]

Good luck silviris, keep looking.

[rossad]

Sad to hear that Silviris . LIfe is short so we must do the best we can. Good luck with your efforts

[Boatguy30]

Roy

I replaced the trunk in a 34. It is maybe a little easier in a 34 with the subfloor setup. I preglassed each side inside with 2 layers and outboard with 1 layer of 8 oz cloth. I put one side in at a time and then glued and filleted in the end log pieces. You have to make the side just a little short and notch the companionway sills in the cockpit corners to get them in. It is a bitch, but possible. That boat had mushroom head bronze centerboard fitting, which seems like a good way to go?

[draw123z4]

Just joined the CF recently and have a question about the Searunner 34...is it blue-water capable for sailing newbies? I want to start on the US west coast, then range between Pacific NW and Mexico. Would it be a good choice as a liveaboard for two? I think it might be a bit crowded, but I ask as it appears these boats are well designed and within my price range (approx. $35-60K asking price before refit). There's one in Honolulu that caught my eye on Yachtworld...

I appreciate this forum and info anyone might have regarding my query...

Thanks,
David

[trisailer]

Well, splash day is coming.
Looks like I'll get the 31 to Milwaukee, WI Saturday the 22nd.
Planning to splash then on Monday.
Got permits ordered, but routing the 13ft width is getting very interesting with road construction all around.
Have folded and unfolded the amas and akas a dozen times now, and all is working as designed.
If it all goes well, I will be so relieved.
The original 31 has a hinge in the lower arm (no one knows why).
So, I just built from there.
Found first try caused a lot of bend in the lower arm, so a little reinforcement took care of that.
Everyone keep you're fingers crossed for me.

[trisailer]

Pictures of folding system in member photos, under trisailer.

[Roy M]

draw123z4, yes.

[Cavalier MK2]

Draw, The Cross 42 on the cheap multihulls thread would be a better liveaboard and the larger size would make the Mexico to PNW passage smoother. Easier maintenance too.

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

Dale:
you can use a come-along or block & tackle to lift the board out.
Mark

Do all centerboards lift out or do some drop out of the bottom? I just found some glass cracks under the paint of my rudder and think I should pull the centerboard to grind it down too for inspection.

[Doggone]

Amazing, the one feature that folks focus on when they visit our SR 40 is the lazy susan in the galley. Three feet across it holds everything that a home should. great use of the space under our T cockpit. I thought that it might get into a spin offshore but it just sits. The black countertops is a great powerboat trick, black stove disappears and galley looks larger. Sink is a commercial mixing bowl. Idea that's been around forever. Works for me....