Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Mark Johnson]

Sea Dragon,
The deck material is DriDeck tiles from West Marine. It is expensive and heavy, but last a VERY long time. (decades)... Standing on it's little feet, and having all of the open squares with a non skid surface, makes it great for drainage or a good surface under foot. We only use it in the cockpit, sub floor, and anchor/dive gear locker.

We shower in the cockpit, yet the walking surface between cabins is dry in about 15 minutes, and the DriDeck openings keep our feet free of sand, which passes through. Out cruising, about once a week we lift the connected rubber mat, and wipe up the sand with wet paper towels.

FOLDING STEERING WHEEL:
These are large, very expensive, and still not totally out of the way. We prefer to just remove the standard wheel. If quick access to the wheel is needed, (like when anchored out), we put it in the aft salon bunk, if not, (like at the dock), we put it in the ama.

The autopilot has to be unpluged from it's waterproof outlet, then TOTALLY BY HAND, I unscrew the large textured axle nut, and the wheel pulls right off. No AP drive belts need to be removed, as they are totally within the autopilot, that remains attached to the wheel. The entire wheel removal process takes 15 seconds or so.

Removal of the wheel solves the space and easy passage issues, and if you make a full cockpit enclosure, it makes the cockpit into a third cabin!

We would not have lived on Delphys as our "only home", In temps ranging from the teens to 105F, for 12 years, without this combination. It would've been too long a camping trip...

Mark

[Roy M]

My own pedestal is located off-center, on the starboard side of the cockpit sole. I cut a small notch in the cockpit seat locker, which is for the helmsman's use during a watch. Here he or she can keep their foulies, jacket, snacks, binos, sunglasses and diversions while on watch. I still haven't repainted the cockpit so I don't have a photo. Moving the pedestal over to the starboard side allows me to pass fore and aft easily past the wheel, allows simply removing the wheel and centerboard axle to remove it from the trunk. The offset wheel also allows the helms(wo)man to sit back, feet up, if desired, and have full command. Sheet handling doesn't seem to be an issue for a single hander, as my boat is at 3 A.M. After I get the dodger installed, the multifunction display will take up residence on the starboard side where the radar can be easily seen, as well as other functions. The pedestal guard holds the main autopilot control, as well as the anchor chain counter and windlass control. The gearshift/throttle is on the starboard side of the pedestal, and all engine instruments and exterior lighting switches are on the port side, below the cockpit seat, so they are easily visible. It's a natural site for handling the boat.

[Roy M]

Back to refrigerator stuff, Nanopore, one of the few makers of vacuum insulated panels (VIPs), now tells me I can send them $1000 and they will immediately fabricate my VIPs. I then have an additional year in which to send the templates for the freezer insulation. The remaining balance I'll use to make a state-of-the-art fishbox that I can transport on deck on any boat I wish to fish on, or even sell it to other anglers. So, the joint order offer is now closed, sorry. On the happier side, my coldplate arrives any day now, and I can go into the final assembly phase and cross this immediate project off the list. I'll send pics later.

[sea dragon]

So I've found some substantial rot in the wet lockers"sigh".
It's going to be a piece of work,so I'm hoping to improve them while I'm at it so they are not "rot lockers"
The rot seems limited to the walls away from the main hull and the underwing skin in places
So what is the best way to build/renovate these hatches for longevity and usefullness?
What is the best way to strengthen them to carry heavy stuff so when the underwings get pounded in a seaway?
is there a way to make these lockers not as wet?

[Doggone]

Originally Posted by sea dragon

So I've found some substantial rot in the wet lockers"sigh".
It's going to be a piece of work,so I'm hoping to improve them while I'm at it so they are not "rot lockers"
The rot seems limited to the walls away from the main hull and the underwing skin in places
So what is the best way to build/renovate these hatches for longevity and usefullness?
What is the best way to strengthen them to carry heavy stuff so when the underwings get pounded in a seaway?
is there a way to make these lockers not as wet?

My 37' SR "Tiva" that I owned in the 80's had rot in the wet lockers. Called Marples and he said to make them dry. So I sealed the bottoms and made new hatches. On our newer '40 which I built from hulls up I went without. Only one bigger hatch on each ama, no more problems. friends at the Napa yard thought that I would regret not having all the access but in 14 years 5 in Mexico I have no regrets.

[Roy M]

They are meant to be wet, hence the name. The problem was that they were not built for the service intended. There are no short cuts to this one. All rotted wood must be removed. Period. It must then be replaced with SEALED (as in epoxy) wood, reinforced as necessary to withstand impact of wavetops smashing into them. I am assuming the worst rot is in the forward wet lockers, because those get hammered the hardest. You may have to remove the entire curved section, from the mainstrength bulkhead to the deck. If so, just buckle up and do it. Get a sawzall and whack away. You need to rebuild this critical area as though it was the first time. Consider double diagonal planking on the forward wing surface if you are having a hard time bending the 1/4" ply. It seems Herculean, but it's a manageable task. You just have to have the right attitude and do it right. Again, I'm sorry that this happened to you, but it's a good project to get out of the way so you can move on with your life with this boat.

When you open up this wing section, make sure that the forward frame has plenty of air circulation and drainage. I used large holesaws to allow me to reach in and touch every square inch of the "dead space" forward (and aft in the aft wet lockers). After epoxy, use epoxy primer to bring light into this area for future inspection.

Since you are in the land of green and gray, consider keeping the wet lockers slightly open when the boat is not in use, just to keep fresh air circulating. I will be up in your area in May, visiting my mom, in Burlington. Send me a pm on how to contact you.

[Cavalier MK2]

I agree with doggone about losing the hatches. The Nicol doesn't have them or the problems that go with them. Some of the wing can still be accessed for storage from the main hull or amas. The unused space is good for flotation for inversion but air circulation is still a good idea. Plus you save weight and complication.

[Roy M]

I disagree about the wet hatches. Mine are extremely useful. On the starboard side, the forward wet hatch contains my secondary anchor rode (primary is all-chain, in the forward bilge), with the anchor, a boat length of chain, all rigged for deployment.

Further aft, in the vicinity of the aft cabin, are two additional wet hatches for storage of the 20# horizontal aluminum propane tanks, gasoline for the outboard, engine oil waste, and other flammable liquids (paint, thinner, etc.) stored in waterproof containers. These, being drained at the underwing, make for safe transport and storage.

The starboard aft wetlocker will be used for drogue storage, when I go cruising.

Portside, forward, lies the 50' saltwater washdown hose and shutoff valve for the washdown pump (which lives in the forepeak).

The next-to-last wetlocker aft is used for fenders, docklines, and other handy gear. The aftermost wet locker stows stuff for the RIB, which will live alongside on the port wingdeck.

I love my wetlockers so much I added some in the cockpit alleyways. The portside houses the engine start battery bank (air and drainage), and storage for distilled water and other battery maintenance supplies. Inboard of it, and part of the cockpit seating, aft, is a large locker for emergency gear (foam extinguisher, sheath knife, hatchet, flashlight, horn, firstaid kit, etc.). This locker drains onto the cockpit sole, and additionally, serves as the air intake for the engine room ventilation system. On the starboardside, under the helmsman's butt, is a locker just for whoever is on watch, to store jacket, binoculars, snacks, etc., also draining onto the cockpit sole, though both the cockpit draining hatches have much better drain seals than wetlockers. Outboard of this locker is another deep wetlocker that is currently waiting for a reassignment.

[Mark Johnson]

Wing lockers:
When John and I discussed this issue 20 years ago, he refered to these wing lockers as Searunner's "rot boxes", and suggested making dry hatches for them. Here is what I did:

I made the interior 100% sealed with several coats of grey pigmented epoxy over the glass, then further protected the bottom from anchor induced impact chips, by laying in there either a thin vinyl mat, (Lowes), or in the case of my dive locker, "DriDeck" tiles, (West Marine).

I also built in a standard combing around the perimeter of the opening, as well as built a skirted hatch. Both of these combings had a notch in the front corner, for the passage of chain or rope rode when the lid is closed.

I added a quick release support spring, so I can flip it up and quickly remove contents between waves. (I can open it, grab a bucket, and close it, in 3 or 4 seconds).

The gasketed dry lid reduces wave entry from above, and allows me to just drop the lid without damage, as it cushions the blow of a "SLAM".

There are 3 close together eye bolts in the front edge, one in the hatches skirt, and the other two in the deck. Since these "eyes" line up, I can use them with a long pad lock to lock the lid, if I'm in that kind of place...

I kept the 2" drain hole in the lockers lowest corner, but on the outside, I put a wave deflector block over it, which blocks most of the water from wave impacts below. The drain hole is a bit less necessary on the 40 due to far less deck sweeping waves, but on all of the other Searunners for sure, a drain hole with wave deflector is called for... (unless perhaps, you make your hatch 100% water tight). Since this requires latching the lid securely every time, and requires having no rode passage notch, it is not advised.

Finally... each of my 3 wing hatches has a Nicro solar vent in the exhaust mode. (They still work after 18 years).

The idea is not so much to prevent rot. If a wet OR dry locker is well enough epoxy/glassed, it will not rot. The idea is to have a mostly dry and constantly "vented" space, to prevent your canvass bucket, brushes, rodes, wet suite, dive gloves, etc, from being fuzzy with mold and mildew.

The system I have used still gets just a bit wet when beating hard to windward, in a full gale and really nasty seas. This is from what gets past the deflector in the lower wing, and from deck sweeping waves. The other 99.9% of the time, I rinse it out in a good rain, close the lid, and after a day to dry (from the solar vented cross breeze), it stays bone dry in there the rest of the time.

Of coarse if one only puts an anchor rode in the wing lockers, this keeping "dry contents" is less important. In my case, however, along with the above, I have all manner of boat gear in the wing lockers, and this keeps the contents in good shape, year after year.

Mark

[sea dragon]

Originally Posted by Doggone

My 37' SR "Tiva" that I owned in the 80's had rot in the wet lockers. Called Marples and he said to make them dry. So I sealed the bottoms and made new hatches. On our newer '40 which I built from hulls up I went without. Only one bigger hatch on each ama, no more problems. friends at the Napa yard thought that I would regret not having all the access but in 14 years 5 in Mexico I have no regrets.

I definitly want to keep the lockers.
They are really usefull.
I like the idea of making them drier wet lockers.
That way things you put in them don't get ruined
they are perfect for propane/gas lockers,because they self drain and are isolated from the main cabin.
The are simply great for anchor lockers
And many,many other handy applications
I just want to make them"bulletproof"
They are just one of the really nice features of the searunner line

[Jmolan]

No time to post. Launched Corazon today, had a wonderful day on the water. Sitting out in front of the house now. Enjoy the photos, I will post more later......:-)

[Doggone]

The real fun of this forum discussing a 45year old design is that the designer left a lot of detailing up to the builder to personalize it to their needs. I have been fooling around with ocean going multihulls since a bought a Warram Tangaro 34' in '79 and sailed to the west coast of central Mexico. My 37' Tiva my wife and I sailed from San Diego to Hawaii, Fanning Isl, Samoa, Tonga and Fiji from 86-90. We did change out the rot hatches before we left. I do remember leaving some of the hatches dry with drains. When we launched Doggone in 99 and I mentioned that I had critics in the boat yard I answered them at the time that I would put the important common used items closest to the hatch and the less common towards the ends of the amas. I have total access to all interior areas. At the end of my port hull is my surfboard and boogie boards. I love the clean lines of the decks. It works for me. We are currently at the Willowberm Marina in the Sacramento delta.

[Sand crab]

Mark. I was wondering what you think your boat is worth? And what year is it again? Nice boat, btw.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by Sand crab

Mark. I was wondering what you think your boat is worth? And what year is it again? Nice boat, btw.

It is hard to say, Sand crab, and thanks!
We try to keep her in sailaway condition, she's LP/WEST system, and was launched in '96. Everyone who knows what they're looking at says she is like no other Searunner. (I don't know about that, Roy's is mighty nice)...
We spared little expense in time or money on the building end, so that on the cruising end, we could cruise comfortably and live on < $15,000 / year, (total expenses for two PLUS boat maintenance... averaged out over many years). We didn't want to be working on the boat all the time, from a beach in a third world country. We wanted to be freediving for dinner, and enjoying the cruising life.

If and when the time to sell comes, I would be looking for around $100,000. She is a round the world boat, fully equipped, and certainly more boat than a 34' Gemini cat. Even second hand, that's about their selling price.

Mark

[PJOHara]

SeaDragon, I've found that using an oscillating cutting tool makes work like cutting inside of lockers much easier. The one made by Fein was probably the nicest, but no stores near me stocked blades or accessories. I ended up going with a Porter-Cable unit from Lowes. Get something you can get accessories for from a local source. I would recommend a tool that you don't need an allen wrench to change or adjust cutters.