Would You Buy a Hans Christian 33?

[Lowcountry]

Originally Posted by hcfirstlight

Our understanding from the Owners Association is that all 33s were built in the same yard, Hansa, as were the 48s. Most if not all were of better quality design and build than the rest of the fleet, but there will be disagreement about that for certain. We are unaware of any 33s for example, built with coring in the decks. Ours has none. All Asian built boats suffered from poorer quality stainless steel is our understanding.

This is inaccurate. HC33's were built at the Hansa yard through 1987. 1988 and beyond were built in the Shin Fa yard. The majority of the Hansa boats had solid GRP decks, but I have read somewhere of a few that were cored. I know for a fact that all HC33's built in the Shin Fa yard had decks cored with isolated 3" square sections of marine ply. I've seen photos of it on hull 144, so I know it to be true.

[Lowcountry]

Originally Posted by Dolphins

With a mixture of complex feelings, it is time for me to pass on my HC33, "Phoenix", to a new steward.

I will be listing her soon with a broker. I mention it here first, because of you, IslandofHope, in case you are interested. During her major refit and restoration in 2012, I wired her for both American 110volt and European 220volts, with a galvanic isolating transformer.

Phoenix was my Odyssean ship as I sailed all over the eastern waters of the Mediterranean. Blog at le grand voyage - a sailing blog

She lies Lake Champlain now, my home waters. You could sail her across yourself in the adventure of a lifetime, or what you could consider is shipping her across the pond. I have sailed across the Atlantic in my previous HC33, and Phoenix has crossed the pond twice by freighter. Back in 2012, it cost $23,000. I would be willing to deliver her to wherever the freighter on the East Coast departs from.

I would be willing to take the cost of the freighter ride into consideration (as well as the VAT you pay) in the price.

For more information, please contact me at mr.dubilier at g mail

I love Phoenix. I put so much work into her restoration, including rewiring, adding equipment, maintaining and updating the engine, and just all the love and care you do when your little ship is your life.

These days I don't get to enjoy Phoenix as much any more since I work as a captain on a passenger friendship sloop on Lake Champlain during the summers, and in winters I work as a writer. (Pretty sweet life.) My partner and I are considering a Cape Dory 22 now for occasional outings on my homewaters.

-Mathias

Mathias,
I recently bought HC33 #145 and shipped her to the US from Balearic Spain. My cost was $16,500, so it seems to be a bit more affordable these days. Also, since my boat was European, I have a 220V system. I am considering wiring in a 110V system and would love to have any information you might be able to share regarding your 110V/220V setup.

[ohdrinkboy]

I like the looks of the HC, but a few no go's for me. The no go's are teak decks, full keel, and too deep a draft. Probably a great boat for crossing an ocean, but I want to bump around the Bahamas and a few islands further south.

[Training Wheels]

The deeper the draft, the more the bumping!

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by hcfirstlight

Our understanding from the Owners Association is that all 33s were built in the same yard, Hansa, as were the 48s. Most if not all were of better quality design and build than the rest of the fleet, but there will be disagreement about that for certain. We are unaware of any 33s for example, built with coring in the decks. Ours has none. All Asian built boats suffered from poorer quality stainless steel is our understanding.

? No deck coring? are you sure about that? You are saying it's solid glass?

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by wingssail

No, not a chance. But then I'm in love with sailing and I want a boat which comes alive in 10 knots of wind and can beat off a lee shore and you can set a kite in something less than 45 minutes.

Depends on what you're in it for.

Such as what boat?

Originally Posted by Lowcountry

Mathias,
I recently bought HC33 #145 and shipped her to the US from Balearic Spain. My cost was $16,500, so it seems to be a bit more affordable these days. Also, since my boat was European, I have a 220V system. I am considering wiring in a 110V system and would love to have any information you might be able to share regarding your 110V/220V setup.

WOW!

I thought I got a good deal on my mystic, seems the few Hans I was just looking at after reading this thread we’re all north of 60k

[Lowcountry]

Originally Posted by NorthernMac

Such as what boat?







WOW!

I thought I got a good deal on my mystic, seems the few Hans I was just looking at after reading this thread we’re all north of 60k

No, I think you misunderstood me. That's what I paid to ship her across. The previous poster had mentioned that he paid $23k for Trans-Atlantic shipping.

[Lowcountry]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

? No deck coring? are you sure about that? You are saying it's solid glass?

Yes, the decks and coachroofs of pre-1988 HC33's are solid GRP.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by NorthernMac

Such as what boat?

NorthernMac, If you are in love with a HC33 you probably like the traditional looks, the interior layout, and the wood. Very lovely to look at and adore.

I wonder if you would be at all interested in the kind of boats I could recommend, those which would fill the needs of an enthusiastic sailor, but here goes:

A boat which comes alive when sailing in 10 knots of wind means high sail area to displacement. Look for over 20.

A boat which can sail off a lee shore will have a fin keel at least, and a good detached rudder.

A boat on which you can set a kite in less than 45 minutes will have clear decks, an efficient deck layout, and winches free of encumbrances.

Any race boat will meet all of these requirements. Some of them, (older ones, 60's, 70's pre-IOR) will even have nice traditional looks, sort of. But most of them are sterile. My own boat is a full-on race boat from the late 70's. A Doug Peterson design, totally industrial topside and below; you can check out the photos on my public profile. It's not for everyone.

For a more modern boat, some call them plastic Tupperware tubs, they won't have the same appeal as a HC33, but they will sail the pants off one, such as Beneteau, Jeanneau, Catalina, Sabre, Hinkley, just ab out any boat from Australia or New Zealand, ...oh there are many. Check out Jim and Ann Cate's boat

So, like I said, you have to decide what you want in a boat. Maybe look for some sort of compromise.

I would suggest that you do some sailing, a lot of sailing, before deciding what boat you want to have for some years.

To me, this is beautiful, and at 40 years old it's starting to look a little traditional:

[Dolphins]

Lowcountry,


I used a Charles isolation transformer. See photo. Available from charlesindustries.com. They are available in different models depending on the load you will draw. They transform in both directions. From 110 to 220 and visa versa. My boat was set up for 110. So I also wired a European outlet to the quarterberth, (outlet just under the berth on the forward side, and so "hidden" when you are standing.) I wired a separate outlet because I wanted new wire for the increased heat of 220v, and I was using that outlet for a space heater. That outlet came straight from the transformer. Remember to wire in a breaker to the outlet if you do it that way.

To "switch direction" (110 to 220, or: 220 to 110) all you do is take the cover off (see photo) and change a jumper wire inside.

The transformer makes a slight hum. And it will get warm. That's normal. But to people who are sound sensitive, it can be heard in the quarterberth. I had it mounted in the cockpit lazerette. The risk in this system is remembering to switch it back when you sail between countries with different voltages. It is not automatic. You must fiddle with the jumper wire. Not sure what kind of fireworks would ensue if you forgot. The advantage is that it is an incredible galvanic isolator. My zincs didn't erode anymore after I installed it.

[Lowcountry]

Originally Posted by Dolphins

Lowcountry,


I used a Charles isolation transformer. See photo. Available from charlesindustries.com. They are available in different models depending on the load you will draw. They transform in both directions. From 110 to 220 and visa versa. My boat was set up for 110. So I also wired a European outlet to the quarterberth, (outlet just under the berth on the forward side, and so "hidden" when you are standing.) I wired a separate outlet because I wanted new wire for the increased heat of 220v, and I was using that outlet for a space heater. That outlet came straight from the transformer. Remember to wire in a breaker to the outlet if you do it that way.

To "switch direction" (110 to 220, or: 220 to 110) all you do is take the cover off (see photo) and change a jumper wire inside.

The transformer makes a slight hum. And it will get warm. That's normal. But to people who are sound sensitive, it can be heard in the quarterberth. I had it mounted in the cockpit lazerette. The risk in this system is remembering to switch it back when you sail between countries with different voltages. It is not automatic. You must fiddle with the jumper wire. Not sure what kind of fireworks would ensue if you forgot. The advantage is that it is an incredible galvanic isolator. My zincs didn't erode anymore after I installed it.

Thank you for the response. I believe that Victron makes a similar unit. At this point, my AC needs are very low, so not sure I will go beyond running an extension cord into the boat from the pedestal and plugging devices/appliances directly into that.

[hcfirstlight]

Ok, thanks for the correction. Our 1984 33 has solid glass hull and decks. What is your hull number?

[hcfirstlight]

The first boats were built at Hansa Yachts Und Shifbau, a new yard located in Taiwan with state of the art facilities. The yard itself was built by former Hans Christian employee Herbert Guttler (a German engineer noted for his genius as a boatbuilder) and his Taiwanese wife, Susan. Hansa continued construction from 1980 through to 1987, the year Hans Christian Yachts ownership passed to its new owner Geoffrey White. Shin Fa Industries, a boatyard located in Taipei, Taiwan took over production in 1988 and these boats, although good, never match the exceptional quality attained by Hansa.

In 1990 Hans Christian operations shifted to Thailand in search of lower costs under the twin pressures of a recession and a Taiwanese luxury tax. In Thailand, Edwards set up a company with the lofty name of Dutch East Indes Trading Company (DEITC) to carry on Hans Christian production for its new owner. We believe one HC33 was constructed in 1992 before production properly recommenced in 1996 under Andersen Yachts Ltd, the boatyard that had essentially risen from the ashes of DEITC.

By 2003 when Andersen’s owner sought retirement, its production manager, a Kiwi by the name of Jack Hall migrated production to his new facilities in Pattaya operating under his own company, Pantawee Marine Ltd. Pantawee presently manufactures all boats from the current Hans Christian line and the Hans Christian 33 is available for purchase at the base price of $297k USD.

In all 155 boats have been produced with the last recorded build in 2009 which shipped to a European dealer.

[IslandOfHope]

Originally Posted by Arthurwg

I could easily let the exterior wood go grey. Mostly concerned about leaking decks and rot. I read somewhere that at least some of the HC33 decks were fastened from underneath, with the screws pointed up. That would not eliminate the need for recaulking, but it might help keeping the core dry. ....

And pre-1988 Hansa HC33's are with solid deck...

Pros and cons - solid vs. cored?

If decks fastened underneath - when? Maybe early Hansa boats?

thanks,

[hcfirstlight]

Our 1984 33 has solid (not cored) decks and the teak decks are fastened from the underside of the deck, then the heads of the wood screw were fiberglassed over. For 25 to 30 years, this was a workable approach. But, as the teak deteriorates, as it normally does over time, the tips of the screws start to show. This becomes yet another maintenance issue. One we will deal with as we continue to appreciate other virtues of our boat.