So West System Epoxy Resin Can Be Used As A Complete Substitute For Gelcoat ?

[albergsailor]

Well i was r i g h t!! the resin can actually completly take the place of the gelcoat. this is coming straight from west systems instructions! sure seems like im pionerring on this one. Thank.s everyone for the advice ill surely let yall see how it turns out. O and that is funny about checking with the yard first. no thanks i work at nite

[albergsailor]

well the gelcoat didnt blast off like i thought it would even with 20 40 grit coal slag., i blasted down to fiberglass in some spots and could have done the whole boat like that but it would have taken a ton of media. Well i was really thinking i wanted an epoxy resin barrier coat but now im not so sure. Its bad enough that i dont seem to have the means to totally remove my gelcoat, Do i want another layer that i will not be able to remove IF i apply it impoperly or if it was to degrade like the gelcoat did, after all the gelcoat it would be going over isnt in good shape at all. Im thinking a RESIN epoxy layer would be just as hard to blast off as gelcoat right? Is it not smarter to apply some type of non resin epoxy barrier coat that could be easily removed/repaired if need be?? Cuz again im guessing the resin barrier coat would not be simple to remove even with a sand blaster like the origional gelcoat, maybe that was what some of u meant when u mentioned the interprotect, since i know they have a like a primer with that.

[Cheechako]

I've done epoxy resin on 3 boats over the years, easy to put it on, no failures. Would you rather risk doing it again? or worry about removing something that shouldnt fail?

[bruce smith]

5000 RPM , spiral -cool backer, 16 grit disc. lot of em .
keep it sharp , keep it flat, keep it moving.

[CharlieCobra]

The epoxy we use doesn't blush, a nice feature. We did use a barrier coat over the faired epoxy and then bottom paint.

[David M]

The way it is done professionally (by the yards) is with an epoxy barrier coat, usually Interlux 2000.

[albergsailor]

but like i said its would be going over battered cracked gelcoat. So in other words the difference between just using the epoxy resin barrier and the epoxy non resin barrier is that i assume the resin barrier has a longer lifespan?? Now about this grinder, i know this is one of the other gelcoat removal methods. I dont understand how that grinder disc is supposed to go onto that pad, I have a feeling this grinding would be pretty back breaking and take a long time. I always wonder why everyone always seems to recommend, power sanders. wouldnt air sanders/ grinders be 10 times lighter. So roughly how long do u think it would take to grind a 30ft boat, anti fouling already removed? Thanks for helpful advice i do appreciate it!

[bruce smith]

I think you are over thinking this. All epoxy will work. Some are easier.
The Milwaukee sander ( not a grinder) pictured has a 5/8ths standard spindal. The pad screws on then the disc, (or several) then there is a special nut.
Yes, it is a 10 pound tool, lighter duty ones , like the popular Makita 9207, are 7 pounds, but top out at 3000. Yes, It is hard work. But a lighter tool still needs to be pressed into the job. Sometimes a heavier tool is less work.
How long depends on the operater and the yard. First of all , in the states, much of the time involved will be on keeping things clean, but you may already be tented off to do blasting.
I could spin the gelcoat in a day, others may take a month.
That said, this is the right tool , but , like welding, or wrenching, the right tool can still get you into trouble.

[lancelot9898]

Why not use an electric hand peeler to remove the gelkote? I spoke to a fellow working at a yard in Oriental, NC who says he can make one pass with that peeler and remove all the gel in a day's time. That was on a 37 foot Tayana.

My thought is to have that gel removed and then let it dry out over the winter. It seems that washing the bottom with warm soapy fresh water periodocally will help get rid of the blister fluid during this dryout. Contrary to what many people do by drilling down into the Chopped Strand Matt and filling that void with epoxy resin, I would think that just letting the CSM dry out would be sufficient and then using the "neat" epoxy resin such as Interlux Epiglass to pentrate the matt. A plastic squeezie would seem to aid in getting that epoxy into the resin starved CSM. Since the CSM has little if any structual component, I do not see any disadvantage plus it removes a step in drilling and filling holes. Next after the epiglass is set properly then the epoxy barrier coats can be applied be it Interprotect 2000 or 3000. Not sure as to the advantage of using the 3000, but it does have a higher solid content than the 2000 and would probably require less coats?? Any comments from the folks who work with this stuff would be appreciated.

[albergsailor]

It was on the tip of my tongue to ask u guys about the peeler as i saw in in the west system video, but i figured i was asking enough questions. I will be calling around tomorrow to try and find a price on one, probably 1000-2000 bucks, we will see. Ok i got 1 more question. It seems that right under the gelcoat of my boat their is a thin YELLOW/Brownish bumpy, rough layer of fiberglass which seems to have takin the brunt of the blister damage. Where the blister has eaten thru this yellow layer it exposes a green layer. The Green layer appears to be very smooth. So what is this yellowish layer called? Or is this yellow layer just a normal layer of fiberglass that has been so degraded? weird huh

[sabray]

Soda blast if there s not moisture in the laminate. Otherwise a good peel would seem in order. Vinyester barrier is standard and not as costly as epoxy. There is a vinyl filler that sands well. Last barrier add wax so it's sandable.

[albergsailor]

well i epoxied the hull with west system it turned out great but i have one question about the next step of primering. I have quite a few small blister holes that the epoxy did seal. But im thinking the interprotect 2000 wont fill these as good as?? So im thinking i should use 3000 or 1000 or should i just sand and then refil everylittle single hole with west resin. I dont really wanna fill these with filler. This has been alot of work and dont want a ton of holes showing on the final product. Thanks

[CharlieCobra]

It's always a lot of work. That's why it cost so damned much to get done. If you want it fair, ya need to mix some micro-glass balloons with the epoxy to get it like peanut butter, apply and sand fair later. We had more than 350 shop hours in fairing the bottom of that SC-50.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by CharlieCobra

It's always a lot of work. That's why it cost so damned much to get done. If you want it fair, ya need to mix some micro-glass balloons with the epoxy to get it like peanut butter, apply and sand fair later. We had more than 350 shop hours in fairing the bottom of that SC-50.

Yeah, you should have filled any divits before putting the epoxy on, But now is fine done as CC said. you are going to need to rough up inside those little divits now though.

[albergsailor]

That was exactly what i have been pondering' how the hell am i going to rough up the inside of those little divits? I have a little wire brush set i just bought from harbor freight it mite help. I guess noone has any input on interprotect 3000. ive never even used 2000 but still im havin west marine order in a gallon of 3000. then of course i know i have to finish off with 2000.