Perkins 4.154 removal Electric motor going in

[cgm12mgc]

So I am having a hard time removing this rusty old diesel. It came non running and I have since decided not to rebuild and just pull it and the transmission to replace them with an electric setup.

Question is, Can someone tell me how to separate the transmission from the block? I have removed all bolts and it's not coming apart. I'm guessing that there are some hidden ones?

Here are a few pictures of her.

[sanibel sailor]

not sure. but you may have to remove the flat steel plate from the bellhousing. I assume you know that they have to come apart longitudinally as the output shaft connects to flywheel. That is, you cannot just unbolt them and lift the tranny vertically

[cgm12mgc]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

not sure. but you may have to remove the flat steel plate from the bellhousing. I assume you know that they have to come apart longitudinally as the output shaft connects to flywheel. That is, you cannot just unbolt them and lift the tranny vertically

yeah she'll have to come forward, i've got a setup braced to do that but I can't seem to get them to come apart. I have all the bolts out around the back side of the transmission and bell housing so from automotive experience it should pull forward and then I can hoist it up. then finish by removing the transmission from the shaft and move on from there?

[osprey877]

I assume you have already thought of this, but can you not remove the engine with the gearbox still attached? On my boat there is room to pull the engine with gearbox still attached forward until it is under the hatchway, then tilt the rear end up 90 degrees and lift it out the hatch gearbox first.

[evm1024]

That is a Borg Warner Velvet Drive transmission with a reduction gear. The 71C version weighs 145#.

I've just removed mine from a Perkins 4.236.

There are 6 studs or bolts that hold the transmission to the bell/flywheel housing, 3 on either side (kinda in place like cats wiskers).

It appears that you have removed the bolts that hold the adapter plate to the bell housing. I see one of the transmission bolts still in place also holding the shift bracket. That is the place to start.

With all 6 bolts out the transmission only needs to move back about 2 inches to fully disengage from the damper plate. With studs you will need to move the transmission back about 5" to clear the studs.

Also, The rear motor mounts are still in place and they are holding the transmission in place as well. You will need to either raise the transmission/engine rear high enough to clear the rear motor mounts or you will need to remove the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the engine bed.

In my case I constructed frame from 2x4s and mounted a portable winch on the frame. From there I was able to raise the engine/transmission to clear the mounts.

The one photo shows the position of the mounting studs/bolts on my bell housing. They are the top 3 on each side.

The second is the end of the Velvet drive which shows the mounting holes and the input drive spline.

Best of luck!

[evm1024]

Looking more closely I see another transmission mounting bolt in place. I can assume that all 6 are still there.

The transmission and engine need to be lifted off the motor mounts or the mounts unscrewed from the transmission and engine to get them to move.

All of the thrust from prop is transmitted up the prop shaft and to some thrust wearings inside the transmission. From there the thrust is transmitted to the boat through the motor mounts.

[evm1024]

One more photo. I've marked where the 2 transmission mounting bolts are on your photo. There are the top 1 of 3 on each side.

[cgm12mgc]

I didn't remove the 6 bolts just the ones going from the adapter plate to the bell housing. i'll remove those 6 and see if she budges. I have the motor mounts disconnected from the stringers (2 bolts either side of each mount) as the main top nut is solid rust. I have an engine bracing bar (for a fwd car) with a 2500lb winch attached to it so I can lift up and swing the motor forward off the transmission and leave the trans in place until I can swing it out by itself

I decided to do them separately as the transmission mount to the prop shaft is so rusty that I could not get it loose. with the engine out of the way i'll be able to get in there and really work on it.

The boat has solid bones and is a great candidate for electric power just really sad how bad the engine was allowed to get... my 58 bertram sportfish is 10 years older but spotless motors...

thanks all for the help

[evm1024]

Sounds like you are on top of it (RE the motor mounts).

My velvet drive came off easily but the bell housing had a gasket with sealant on it. I ended up taking a 2x4 to break the bell housing free.

My engine runs and the transmission is being rebuilt so I was gentle in removing it.

Sounds like you have more latitude in terms of applying force.

That is a great looking boat - What kind is it?

[cgm12mgc]

Originally Posted by evm1024

Sounds like you are on top of it (RE the motor mounts).

My velvet drive came off easily but the bell housing had a gasket with sealant on it. I ended up taking a 2x4 to break the bell housing free.

My engine runs and the transmission is being rebuilt so I was gentle in removing it.

Sounds like you have more latitude in terms of applying force.

That is a great looking boat - What kind is it?

Definitely some leeway on applying force when removing it. Only component I don't want to damage is the prop shaft.

She's a Bruce Roberts 45' ketch. The couple had let her sit for several years before hurricane Irma beat her up cosmetically. I've removed the teak rub rails and am prepping to paint her Stars and stripes blue.

the picture attached is pretty much what i'm going for but as a ketch

[wph36]

I have a similar project ...replacing 4-154 with electric in a morgan 416, and having issues . Curious as to what you're intending to install?

[PuttingDoctor]

Following with great interest.

[peter57]

Originally Posted by cgm12mgc

So I am having a hard time removing this rusty old diesel. It came non running and I have since decided not to rebuild and just pull it and the transmission to replace them with an electric setup.

Question is, Can someone tell me how to separate the transmission from the block? I have removed all bolts and it's not coming apart. I'm guessing that there are some hidden ones?

Here are a few pictures of her.

I'm interested in how much battery storage you intend to install and at what voltage you intend to run at?

To push the boat along would you need 10 Kw of power?

Cheers,

[cgm12mgc]

Originally Posted by wph36

I have a similar project ...replacing 4-154 with electric in a morgan 416, and having issues . Curious as to what you're intending to install?

I am giving some serious thought to this setup here, https://www.electricmotorsport.com/m...ve-system.html

15 peak hp with 6hp continuous... very low for a 45' boat I agree but I want it to get out of the Marina and through bridges when needed. I like this setup because I can do a 36vdc battery bank in which case I can create a very large battery bank rather easily. 3 200amp hour 12vdc batteries together to form the 36vdc and can do 6 if I want 400 amp hours.

I have a generator big enough to power the setup continuously if I do run low on battery and I can also charge the 36vdc via solar much easier than a 72vdc bank...

i'm not looking to set records for speed under power but i'm sure I can get 5kts pretty easily. I have a little 5hp outboard i've strapped to the back of her for giggles and she got to moving pretty well with that little guy.

I had a guy in another topic about this conversion say well good luck with nosing into the wind... it's a sailboat... if it's windy why am I not sailing? ICW maybe? okay well It's a fun boat for me not a full time cruiser and i'm sure anything short of gale force winds i'd still make headway through a narrow channel if I push her to full throttle. run the generator and bam i'm set.

a little bit of detail and a little bit of a rant, let me know what you guys think of that motor setup.

I am liking the aircooled so I don't have to add another full water cooling system to the boat... less maintenance. If I get the full electric bug I can always go with something bigger and more complex