Danish Rose 39 owners

[MBraile]

Many thanks, maybe next week I have the place free than I write you back

[MBraile]

https://imgur.com/a/f1cDjzV

[MBraile]

Last time at sand, 3 months ago

[Fore and Aft]

MBraile that is a lovely hull shape for a steel yacht and not at all what I imagined. I hope you were installing anodes after you took that photo? Where did you beach her, the tide looks like it goes out for miles?
If your tank is integral it is not all bad, the photo below is the inside of a 42-year-old steel yacht integral diesel tank that I surveyed. The steel still looks in excellent condition.
Cheers

[hpeer]

FWIW I agree with everything Trentpieds has said.

I have no knowledge of environmental law but in many places a diesel spill will bring some big fines and clean up cost.

That may be your biggest potential liability.

[MBraile]

Dear Sirs, there is no Diesel more inside the Tank, only saltwater and sand.
The boat is at Marina Aven: https://marinaaven.com.br/
The firt Job I made was the Zinc Anods change: 6 x 3kg each at the Keel and 1 at the propeller: https://imgur.com/a/KhJmJs2

[MBraile]

https://imgur.com/a/oSkFTtz

there we took only 1 screw out, and water flows from the tank withou stop

but this only happens if the ocean water level is very high. maybe the water inlet isnt at the botton

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by MBraile

...
The Danish is made of nautic steel, very good one, almost 15 ton, for a 39ft boot..

What is "nautic steel"?

[MBraile]

Rumpf- und Decksbauweise: Schiffsbaustahl Güterklasse A mit Zertifikat, sandgestrahlt, grundiert und lackiert, Außenhaut 5 mm, Aufbauten 4 mm, Kielsohle 10 mm, Stevebereich 8 mm, Spanten T-förmig 50x50x6 mm

Hull and deck construction: shipbuilding steel, quality class A with certificate, sandblasted, primed and painted, outer skin 5 mm, superstructure 4 mm, keel sole 10 mm, steve area 8 mm, T-shaped frames 50x50x6 mm

[MBraile]

file:///C:/Users/marci/Dropbox/PC/Do...gem-Yacht.html

[MBraile]

That is the only infos I fond about Danish Rose in the internet, a Reportagem from 2002 from YACHT Magazine

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by MBraile

https://imgur.com/a/oSkFTtz

there we took only 1 screw out, and water flows from the tank withou stop

but this only happens if the ocean water level is very high. maybe the water inlet isnt at the botton

Thank you for the additional info, it helps.

It does not matter where the hole is. The water inside is equalizing the water level outside. Hole could be anywhere.

Imagine a tank 1 meter high. If it has a hole in the bottom the outside water will come in and the tank will completely empty on low tide.

If the tank has a hole 1/2 way up the tank will completely fill at high tide but only 1/2 empty in low tide.

Using this info if you can dip stick the water level while on the sand it will give you an idea where to look for the hole. If the tank has 1/3 meter of water, sitting upright at low tide, then that is the level of the hole.

If the tank completely empties, then the hole is in the very bottom, or around the shoe weld.

BUT, as said above you need some way to do a VERY QUICK patch. As you hole for the holy it is VERY LIKELY you will make it bigger. Bigger hole is harder to patch.

Do you intend to weld on a patch while careened on the sand?

If you are going to take it to a yard to haul to then patch then why not do it now?

Nothing here is gonna get better the longer you wait and have yet more water and sand in the tank.

The least expensive solution to haul the boat and fix it NOW.

The how will be readily visible once the boat is on stands. Pour some water into the tank and it will come out.

I believe it likely you will have to take the tank lid off, if nothing else to inspect and clean the tank. But also to paint the weld on the inside. Hopefully you can do that without lifting the motor.

On my big boat the tank top is under the motor and there is no clean out port, I need to pull the motor. Genius.

[MBraile]

Thanks Hpeer,
I believe I have the same problem, Tank just below the motor, with no access. next week we will try to find more

[Fore and Aft]

MBraile I can't see why you cannot fix it on the sand as long as you have a grinder, generator and welder ready. Then some paint to cover the new steel, fingers crossed it drys quick enough.
When you think about it, I am sure you would have seen a hole in the hull, so I wonder if it is the bottom of the keel/hull weld that has corroded? Right now, in our boatyard there is a steel yacht that has that problem. About 300mm of weld has corroded so badly that diesel was leaking out of it.
Thinking some more, make sure you have enough water in the hull in containers or buckets so if the leak is not visible at least you can fill the tank to find the problem.
Cheers

[MBraile]

Dear Fore and Aft,
Thanks a lot for the infos

one more question: it is only from outside welding ? is not another stainles steel plate inside the outer steel ?

because on the top of the tank is it stainless steel.

I thought I would need to weld the outside steel and also another stainles Steel inside. But if there is only 1 steel to weld is much easier.

at the sand we have all utilities: water, energy 220V. It is not on the beach, I am going to use a Pier of Catamara on the beach

Thanks
Marcio