Running a windlass off of inverter

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Lasivian

the 12v-24v converter is your best bet. There are a lot of other things on a boat that you will want 24v for, and the efficiency is slightly better than an invertor.

I'm actually considering running a 24v system, then converting down to 12v for those things that need it. As most power hungry things seem to use 24v.

No need to make it more complex. A voltage to voltage converter is a complexity you don't need. Proper wiring is a one time expense and not likely to fail. A voltage to voltage converter to handle that heavy of a load is prone to failure when you need it most.

[Marrigoround]

Thanks for all of the replies! I think that I am going to use the 10% voltage drop allowance and shoot for a 2 AWG to land around 5-7%. This should save me $300 or so and will be much easier to run the cable.

As far as the original question, I still don't understand why no AC windlass, but I like the safety/shock issue posted by Cheeckako. If the case is grounded, which it would need to be, that could be a major problem if it faulted when wet. Either way, I have given up that path and moving on.

Thanks!

[betwys1]

Originally Posted by lituya1617

Windlass or any other high load but low voltage electrical system is unreliable over the long run. Electricity + copper wire + salt water = trouble. I suggest you do what the commercial boats do, use hydraulics. A hydraulic pump and motor with wench head costs less than a fancy electric windlass and is more powerful and more reliable. If you have need of other high-torque services in the future, you can easily tap into the hydraulic system. It is easy to mount a pump on the engine with an electric clutch and the hydraulic lines, filter, and reservoir are all OTS and inexpensive. I have done this installation on my own boat and never had a minute of trouble with it. I liked it so well that I put in a wench on the stern too just in case I want to pull a crab or shrimp pot once in a while.

I liked the idea of rigging a hydraulic winch/up-haul. Then I looked at the costs. Couldn't find a hydraulic winch under a grand. Then the pump and hoses. I would like to be shown a lower end hydraulic system pricing.

Brian W

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by stormalong

I have 30 year old windlass wiring and a ten year old windlass - 12 volt. Haven't touched it since I installed the windlass.

Used the right kind of electrical end fittings and sealed them with heat shrink with glue. Sprayed the connections with Boeshield T9. Will probably last another 30 years.

Yes!

And I wired my boat myself, including batteries, battery switch, nav station, and windlass, over 30 years ago with whatever wire I could get at the time, which included 2/0 welding cable. I was not and am not an electrician. I installed the ends (crimped or swaged) and used heat shrink when I had it. My use case is as a world cruiser, liveaboard, and racing boat and I can say that at times, everything in the boat has been wet with salt water. In over 30 years I have not had any problems with the cables. Some of my end fittings without heat shrink have gotten corroded or frayed, and developed high resistance, and I have replaced them.

I don't think that high end tinned wire or other marine grade electrical gear is required or worth it.

I also don't recommend adding a battery forward for reasons of weight nor do I recommend going to hydraulic drive. I want my boat to be simple and light, not an industrial vessel.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Marrigoround

Thanks for all of the replies! I think that I am going to use the 10% voltage drop allowance and shoot for a 2 AWG to land around 5-7%. This should save me $300 or so and will be much easier to run the cable.

As far as the original question, I still don't understand why no AC windlass, but I like the safety/shock issue posted by Cheeckako. If the case is grounded, which it would need to be, that could be a major problem if it faulted when wet. Either way, I have given up that path and moving on.

Thanks!

It is an initial torque issue. AC motors don't have it. Just the nature of the beast.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by stormalong

I have 30 year old windlass wiring and a ten year old windlass - 12 volt. Haven't touched it since I installed the windlass.

Used the right kind of electrical end fittings and sealed them with heat shrink with glue. Sprayed the connections with Boeshield T9. Will probably last another 30 years.

I've never had an electric windlass failure. One windlass was new, the others were 8-13 years old when I acquired the boat. I did charter a boat with a defective windlass foot switch once.

[dickhein]

Several years ago on a prior boat I faced the same situation. I solved it by using welding cable. Not only is it much cheaper but it’s very flexible and makes the install easier. Had I not been in Mexico at the time i probably would not have thought of welding cable but it worked well.

Heinsite DF 43
Lying New Bern

[saillr]

Do not go manual. You will regret it when a windy dark night has you out of the bunk to possibly re-anchor. Manual windlass' are rarely used because they are so slow. As I recall I think it is about 6" per stroke and the strokes are long.
We found while cruising that quite often when anchoring in a new location we would sometimes choose the wrong place due to current holding the boat opposite the slop and need to re-anchor. With an electric it is an easy decision. With a manual you really think about all the extra work specially when very tired.
Also for what it's worth. We have an island Packet 40. It was prewired with 1/0 wire to the forepeak. We have been running a Simpson Lawrence 1200W windlass for 25 years without trouble.
Always start the motor first, power over the anchor to break out, then use the windlass to raise.

[mvweebles]

Originally Posted by Marrigoround

Thanks for all of the replies! I think that I am going to use the 10% voltage drop allowance and shoot for a 2 AWG to land around 5-7%. This should save me $300 or so and will be much easier to run the cable.

Assume you mean 2/0 cable? Pretty big difference....2/0 should be more than enough for you.

Peter

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by mvweebles

Assume you mean 2/0 cable? Pretty big difference....2/0 should be more than enough for you.

Peter

I agree. Go with 2/0, not 2awg. 2awg will work but 2/0 is better. If you are on a budget go with welding wire for flexibility and just keep it away from corrosive items such as the bilge.

[rla]

A 60 amp/hr starter battery at $65 in the forepeak and a pair of charge wires through a Durite VSR from the main batteries. Cheaper safer and has lasted years. The same set up as most bow thrusters now. If you have one, the winch and thruster can share the same battery.

[Sailmon]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

Just go with a good manual windlass and be done with it.

I’m with Mike. We cruise FL Gulf Coast & Keys on Freedom 38 with 44# Rocna. I am 71 and we have never had a problem lowering or raising our anchor with our manual Simpson Lawrence windlass.

[Mauruuru]

Your solution is much simpler and much cheaper---buy a battery and locate it up in the bow. buy a suitable small charger and run AC from panel in stern up to the bow mounted charge. Keep the DC leads as short as possible to the winch.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Cadence

It is an initial torque issue. AC motors don't have it. Just the nature of the beast.

An AC motor can do it, there is no shortage of AC motors in overhead cranes for instance, I suspect there are no or very few AC windlasses as AC adds another point of failure, either inverter or generator would be needed.

However the inverter size isn’t trivial. If we assume a windlass can pull 150 amps at 12V, then that’s 1800W, so I would want a 3000W inverter in case there were other loads and for a safety margin

[Auspicious]

Originally Posted by rla

A 60 amp/hr starter battery

What pray tell do you think an ampere per hour is?