Protecting Dyneema lifelines at stanchions

[Matt Johnson]

If you go to a marina only every once in awhile, then lashings are an option. But for daysailers, I bet that they'd eventually get to the point that they'd haphazardly secure or not do it all. Sometimes convince wins out. Like a three point seat belt - not the best overall design, but it's ease of use means it will actually be worn.

We taped our shut and then eliminated them completely on the next boat, but we only used marinas occasionally anyway.

[sanibel sailor]

Here’s how I secure my pelican hooks. Zip tie thru the split ring which locks the plunger in place. I don’t see this as an insecure connection. With the taping of the hook shown in the PS article, if the plunger gets pulled only the poor tensile strength of the tape holds it closed. A zip tie in that spot would be insecure, tending to slide below the overlapping parts.
Interesting that the PS article shows the lashing going to a welded bail without comment. The welded flat bar is probably a better idea.

[Matt Johnson]

I wasn't too enthused about using the welded bails either. So we just reversed the door and had the dyneema cow hitched to the pushpit. The first stanchion had the lifeline end in a thimble. The pelican hook connected to the thimble.

This also keeps the lifelines tensioned even when open.

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So they do allow Dyneema lifelines for racing now?! Good news

Mostly "no." They are allowed for monohulls (no railmeat stressing the lifelines and no chafe from headsail sheets) and inshore (cat 4) races, where risk of harm from failure is minimal. See page 12 (3.14.6 a) of current regs.
https://www.sailing.org/tools/docume...ons20222023v2-[27823].pdf

[singlespeed]

You are over thinking it. It depends on the size of both the Dyneema and the clearance on the stancion ferrule. I replaced my plastic coated SS wire with a comparable sized dyneema and never noticed any excess wear at any stancion. Sun damage was and is a continual long term problem, but considering how easy dyneema is to splice and you can easily reuse the pelican hooks and thimbles, making it renewal an easy choice.

[svIkani]

Dynema life lines are fantastic. Much softer on the hands and body as you grab and lay on them for typical sailing tasks and life. To protect them you could be even MORE salty and sew leather or canvas chafe guard in place...

[carlwk3c]

I replaced a broken stainless lifeline (a segment about 10’ long) with dynema. Our stanchions’ holes are not particularly rough, but not particularly smooth either.
I put a double layer of heavy duty shrink tubing about 4” long over the part that goes through the stanchion. That was about 6-7 months ago, and it looks fine. No visible deterioration.

[twofingerpoi]

I have not tried these split grommets but thought it may be a good solution.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/gr...it-grommets-5/

Since they are split, they can be readily replaced. UV stable. Might need to trim the locking tabs and use a dab of sealant to hold in place. Should be a neat fit.

[Nicholson58]

Your pass-throughs at stanchions should look like this. Us SS tube and a flailing tool.

[Mina2]

I replaced my SS lifelines with Dyneema about five years ago (if it was good enough for the Vendee Globe it was good enough for me). As suggested by some above, I used dyneema sleave over the bits that went through the stanchions and stiched them to the dyneema lifeline to stop them from slipping. Five years on and there is no sign of chafe so I probably didn't need the anti-chafe sheaf but better safe than sorry.

[Russ]

Been using this exact setup from Colligio for 10 years No problems

Colligo Dux Lifeline Kits
from $210.46
Kits available with and without gates.

https://www.colligomarine.com/produc...-lifeline-kits

[bharney]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

I am replacing my Dyneema lifelines and am looking for suggestions about how to protect them where they run thru the stanchions. The holes have ferrules and smooth edges. I used vinyl tape before and had no chafe issues but it looked like crap. Any great replacements?
And I know Dyneema is a bit controversial. It is unsafe, unseamanlike and I am endangering my crew and I will almost certainly die a horrible death, so if you are of that opinion, I don't need to be informed.

I use dyneema chafe sleeve over the dyneema lifelines at the stanchions, it comes in various sizes and is very tough.

[paul2884]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You do not need anything. Even without ferrules, as long as there are no sharp edges, you are good to go. There will be no chafing.

What is important is which Dyneema you use. UV degradation is the main consideration and I recommend Samson Amsteel Blue in 6mm for the upper lifelines and 5mm or 6mm for the lower lifelines.

Here’s a couple pictures of our lower lifelines showing ideas for attachments. The splice at the lashing end should be shortened a bit because the lashing is too short after pulling out the constructional stretch. There is a low friction ring in that splice and the lashing is 2mm Spyderline which is a Dyneema core with polyester cover.

I have considered dynema to replace our guard wires and we use quite a few soft shackles onboard.


But, somthing that I am a bit concerned about is how to know when the UV has weekended them? Is there a way to predict when they are due for replacing? On the genoa sheets we use two soft shackles so if one snaps we still have the other sheet attached and can furrel it, but the guard wires are only a single strand and there is no way to provide a backup so it needs relacing before it has weekened too much to be safe.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by paul2884

I have considered dynema to replace our guard wires and we use quite a few soft shackles onboard.


But, somthing that I am a bit concerned about is how to know when the UV has weekended them? Is there a way to predict when they are due for replacing? On the genoa sheets we use two soft shackles so if one snaps we still have the other sheet attached and can furrel it, but the guard wires are only a single strand and there is no way to provide a backup so it needs relacing before it has weekened too much to be safe.

If you use Dyneema from unknown source then you can’t count on a good UV resistant coating. For Samson Amsteel Blue you can count on 10 years or more. You can simply test it using a winch. I have my mizzen capshrouds at the gates and simply step up on the Dyneema, stamp it etc.

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

I also want to change to dyneema lifelines. We now have stainless wires, that rusts, with PVC over it, that becomes ugly and yellow, after only 6 years. The original stuff from 2003 was much better, as with most stuff you buy for boats nowadays.


A friend installed dyneema lifelines with a black hose over almost the complete length of the dyneema. I find that a very attractive option; we get chafe of the lifelines from the code 0 sheet. This sheet needs to go inside the lifelines for upwind courses, and outside the lifelines for straight downwind. Quite often it will touch. The PVC cover of our steel lifelines is worn through there.

I have seen black hose that is 1/4" inside and 3/4" outside, made of polypropylene. From McMaster-Carr in the USA.

Regretfully my friend doesn't remember what his black tubing is made of..... polypropylene, ABC, polyethylene, EPDM....
A 5 or 6 mm dyneema would nicely fit into this 1/4" / 3/4" tube, and the holes in the stanchions are 10mm.



I would appreciate a recommendation for what type of hose to use.
Thanks