Protecting Dyneema lifelines at stanchions

[sanibel sailor]

I am replacing my Dyneema lifelines and am looking for suggestions about how to protect them where they run thru the stanchions. The holes have ferrules and smooth edges. I used vinyl tape before and had no chafe issues but it looked like crap. Any great replacements?
And I know Dyneema is a bit controversial. It is unsafe, unseamanlike and I am endangering my crew and I will almost certainly die a horrible death, so if you are of that opinion, I don't need to be informed.

[Orin]

I’ve been contemplating switching to dyneema.
I was thinking about running a piece of tubing with heat shrink at either end of the tube. I honestly haven’t put much thought into it yet.

[sanibel sailor]

I have read that heat shrink on Dyneema is not a great idea. It is pretty heat sensitive and I think the polymer chain structure changes and weakens it significantly.

[Orin]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

I have read that heat shrink on Dyneema is not a great idea. It is pretty heat sensitive and I think the polymer chain structure changes and weakens it significantly.

Just looked this up. You’re absolutely correct. It looks like you can’t exceed about 50C(122F) with HMPE lines where heat shrink needs about 90C(200F) to shrink.

Granted there are other sources that put HMPE(Dyneema) higher but still not high enough.

[hlev00]

Could you create a sleeve of larger dyneema or poly double braid cover and whip / stitch it? It would be nice to be able to replace it occasionally which might be possible depending on how you terminate the lifelines. You do have to account for UV degradation too when considering longevity.

[Randy]

Colligo has a bracket that looks like it attaches to the outside of the stanchion.

[Randy]

Originally Posted by Orin

I’ve been contemplating switching to dyneema.
I was thinking about running a piece of tubing with heat shrink at either end of the tube. I honestly haven’t put much thought into it yet.

Flared tubing would avoid the chafing issue. Figure out a clean way to attach it in the stanchion.

[marcjsmith]

How about a rubber tube, thinking clear fuel line....That’s large enough to wrap around the dynema but small enough to pass through the stanchion. Make a slice in the tube so you can get it over the Dynema. Which would allow you replace it as needed...as well...

[Orin]

Originally Posted by Randy

Flared tubing would avoid the chafing issue. Figure out a clean way to attach it in the stanchion.

I think this a winner for my philosophy going forward. Modify the stanchion by adding the tubing or low friction bits to the stanchion instead of to the line eh?

I think it would be really easy to machine some delrin to fit in the stanchions and provide a bit a fillet on the inside diameter.

Alternatively pushing a UV stabilized ABS tube thru the stanchion and then heating and flaring the ends to lock it in place would do nicely. It’s minority difficult to heat ABS to the point of being malleable without getting surface bubbles… but totally doable.

[Boatguy30]

https://usonedesign.com/dyneema-chafe-sleeve-5mm/

[Snore]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

https://usonedesign.com/dyneema-chafe-sleeve-5mm/

What he said. Had them whipped onto mine when I sold the Tartan

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

I am replacing my Dyneema lifelines and am looking for suggestions about how to protect them where they run thru the stanchions. The holes have ferrules and smooth edges. I used vinyl tape before and had no chafe issues but it looked like crap. Any great replacements?
And I know Dyneema is a bit controversial. It is unsafe, unseamanlike and I am endangering my crew and I will almost certainly die a horrible death, so if you are of that opinion, I don't need to be informed.

You do not need anything. Even without ferrules, as long as there are no sharp edges, you are good to go. There will be no chafing.

What is important is which Dyneema you use. UV degradation is the main consideration and I recommend Samson Amsteel Blue in 6mm for the upper lifelines and 5mm or 6mm for the lower lifelines.

Here’s a couple pictures of our lower lifelines showing ideas for attachments. The splice at the lashing end should be shortened a bit because the lashing is too short after pulling out the constructional stretch. There is a low friction ring in that splice and the lashing is 2mm Spyderline which is a Dyneema core with polyester cover.

[Striker]

I have been running 5/16 sta set lifelines for over 2 decades now, ever since the advantages were pointed out. No issues with chafe.
Dyneema is ,or so I hear, way better than sta set, so I can’t believe chafe will be a problem.
Before the “silly “ starts, 5/16 sta set has a breaking strength of 3500lbs. I can’t see how I could even apply near that.

[s/v Jedi]

About Dyneema lifelines being unseamanlike… I find it the opposite and it actually is steel wire being unseamanlike. Use of J hooks and turnbuckles only makes it worse.

The old traditional methods of using rope are back now that we have the high tech fibers that outperform steel wire. The only valid reason for having steel lifelines is participating in races that demand the use of steel, a requirement that hopefully disappears sooner rather than later.

[new-to-sailing]

I recently replaced my lifelines with Dyneema and my intention was to use the sacrificial cover linked below for parts running through the stanchions and stitch it in place after the lifelines had stretched. Only problem is I forgot to add it on my first lifeline so I then scrapped the idea so make sure you get it on there before splicing both ends. I have the product though and I think it would have looked great.

They don’t have a sizing chart on West Marine but the New England Ropes site has one so I’ve included that as well.

https://www.westmarine.com/new-engla...1_006_503.html

https://www.neropes.com/products/gra...-chafe-sleeve/