Troubleshooting Solar 400W (4x100W) + Victron

[Cloroxbottle]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I think he means that he joins the output of the MPPT to the output side of the charger, and those leads go directly to the battery. Not elegant, but should work if the cable size is appropriate.

This appears to be what he did, using the posts on the Pallas as a jury rigged DC bus to bring the wires from the battery, chage controllers, and DC output from the charger together in one location.

Now, for the OP: have you recently checked each panel in full sun for open circuit voltage and short circuit current? That is a simple test that does not require sophisticated equipment... just a decent DVM that can measure the full output current of a panel. If it does not equal that shown on the panel's label, it could well be the panels that are the problem after all.

I removed all the panels and checked them with the meter in direct sunlight with the blanket test. All the open circuit voltages are 19ish, production Amps in direct sunlight 4.5-5.25. Installed in parallel, volts and amps are correct at the charge controller input ports.

But the battery monitor only sees between 0.5-3.2 ish amps depending on sky conditions when installed and adding loads quickly drops the charging state to -5 to -10 depending on how much you turn on.

I guess my next step is to install a proper DC bus and fuses attach the charging sources to it, and upgrade the wiring running to the house batteries.

[Cloroxbottle]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

What are the red and yellow load leads that are shown in the photo connected to?.

The red and yellow leads (inside the white sheath) come off the charge controllers and terminate as a set of wires in the forward and aft cockpit that the former owner said he used to run led lights.

Currently they are not hooked up to anything and their other ends are taped off so they aren't shorting. I was considering repurposing these to hook up two of these:

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/blu1016-blue-sea-dual-usb-charger-socket--2-usb-ports-w.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign =Shopping%20-%20All%20Products&utm_term=1100200315462&utm_conte nt=Shopping%20-%20All%20Products

To allow for easily charging tablets and phones in the cockpit...but I am not going to mess with that until the rest of this is sorted.

[Cloroxbottle]

As far as the wiring of the MPPTs, panels, and wiring...

I have 4 x 100W/12V panels.

I have 2 x 75/15 MPPT controllers

Each controller is receiving input from two panels wired in parallel which should be well below what they are rated for.

Shorepower is turned off.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Cloroxbottle

Currently they are not hooked up to anything and their other ends are taped off so they aren't shorting. I was considering repurposing these to hook up two of these:

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/blu1016...All%20Products

To allow for easily charging tablets and phones in the cockpit...but I am not going to mess with that until the rest of this is sorted.

Remove the load wires. If you want a usb charger in the cockpit or elsewhere wire them to the electrical panel, properly fused.

It makes no sense to have a usb charger that only works when the sun shines.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by tarian

Please read your victron mppt 75/15 victron instruction booklet , available on the inter web , it clearly states if loads are exceeded via solar to mppt you will have issues . 400 w of solar at 12 v does not go into 220 watts of maximum load for this mppt , you will need to upgrade your mppt for the loads your solar is putting out which is 400 watts
2 x parallel solar 2x100 x2 still gives yous 400w forget about amperage this is after the mppt converts watts. To amps 400 w does not go into 220 w which is the maximum load a victron 75/15 mppt will accept ,which may cause damage to your mppt and solar

Not sure where you are claiming to have seen this. All Victron MPPT controllers can be over-paneled. The only reference in the manual is:

"If more PV power is connected the controller will limit input power."

Many people over-panel solar controllers. I wouldn't as it mostly doesn't make sense but it will not damage a Victron controller.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

Remove the load wires. If you want a usb charger in the cockpit or elsewhere wire them to the electrical panel, properly fused.

It makes no sense to have a usb charger that only works when the sun shines.

When the load function is turned on and functioning if the sun is shining it powers the load. When the input is insufficient the battery fills the void. So even if you disconnect the panels it will still power the load until it reaches the low voltage cut out point.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by newhaul

When the load function is turned on and functioning if the sun is shining it powers the load. When the input is insufficient the battery fills the void. So even if you disconnect the panels it will still power the load until it reaches the low voltage cut out point.

True, and there is a load disconnect of 11.1, 11.8. or BatteryLife algorithm that does not reconnect until charging occurs.

Still an odd arrangement that is missing on Victron's larger controllers.

I would not use it.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

True, and there is a load disconnect of 11.1, 11.8. or BatteryLife algorithm that does not reconnect until charging occurs.

Still an odd arrangement that is missing on Victron's larger controllers.

I would not use it.

I used to run my entire power load off of my 30 amp load circuit on my pwm controller.
It was to calculate my daily power needs .( it tracks ah in and out of the system when hooked up that way)

[noelex 77]

The load output of the smaller Victron controllers is quite versatile. It can be adjusted via the software to be always on, always off, on only at night, and on only if the battery voltage is above a certain level (this level is even user adjustable) along with other options. The power will be drawn from the battery if the solar output is inadequate. The function can be changed via Bluetooth so it can also be used as remote switch, such as turning on a light without getting out of bed. The power consumption of the load output is reported separately on the app so it provides extra monitoring of the connected device.

Some other brands of controllers only have very limited options and some can be programmed to perform sophisticated functions, such as turning a pump on for 5 minutes if the battery voltage is above a certain level.

Keep in mind that the load output is limited regarding the current it can supply (often the same as the overall current rating of the controller, but sometimes less). Be conservative with devices that have high start up current (such as fridges). A relay can be used to increase this amount, but unless it is a latching relay the power consumption of the relay is a potential nuisance.

The load output is rarely used on boats, but it can be useful in some installations such as simply turning an anchor light on at night, or for more complicated functions. For example it could be used to turn on an auxiliary fridge used for cold drinks in the cockpit, but only providing the battery voltage is high. There are many other possibilities.

Keep in mind that a simple electrical system tends to be more reliable in a marine environment. Every time I think of a clever function that could be automated with the load function, I have ultimately decided that the complication is not justified, but I still think it could be usefully used in some situations.

[Cloroxbottle]

So I figured I'd take a look more closely at the charge controllers while I waited for the bus bar to arrive.

I got a VE direct cable and hooked it up to the boat computer and downloaded the Victron Connect software. The first thing it wanted to do for both was update them from firmware 1.19 to 1.54 which I let it do.

Then I went to the status screens for both controllers and saw the following for each (right now I only have one 100 watt panel attached to one of them).

However the current for both appears to be zero or near zero. Adding loads appears to do nothing.

[Nord Sal]

One controller looks like it has had no output at all since Dec 13. Did something change then?

Both controllers show load output switched "on". I presume the PO set this to run the LED lighting.

There are many parameters which can be set on the Victron MPPT charge controllers for load output, perhaps resetting the charge controller to its default might take care of the gremlins?

[Adelie]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Why on earth would anyone run solar through a battery charger ?

They didn't, they ran the leads from the controllers to the battery side of the charger which connects to the batteries. Power doesn't go thru the charger, they just share the posts.

Did the OP pull all the connections and clean them?
OP indicates pairs of panels in parallel go to each controller. Are the panels in each pair both on the same side of the boat. If they are on opposite sides and one side gets shaded by the boom or sails then that shading will pull down the production from both panels. A photo from atop the boom might help understand the layout.

[Adelie]

Originally Posted by tarian

Please read your victron mppt 75/15 victron instruction booklet , available on the inter web , it clearly states if loads are exceeded via solar to mppt you will have issues . 400 w of solar at 12 v does not go into 220 watts of maximum load for this mppt , you will need to upgrade your mppt for the loads your solar is putting out which is 400 watts
2 x parallel solar 2x100 x2 still gives yous 400w forget about amperage this is after the mppt converts watts. To amps 400 w does not go into 220 w which is the maximum load a victron 75/15 mppt will accept ,which may cause damage to your mppt and solar

He's got 2 controllers, 2 panels for controllers. He should be fine.

[Adelie]

If the "Load" output can be programmed to only come on at night, I might wire the Nav lights thru that. Automatically go on and off as needed. All the nav lights for sail/motor/anchor.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Adelie

If the "Load" output can be programmed to only come on at night, I might wire the Nav lights thru that. Automatically go on and off as needed. All the nav lights for sail/motor/anchor.

Personally I like to run my refrigeration via the load output set to turn off at approx .25 volts above the refrigerator s own safety shutdown .