Teeing into a pair of #6 wires

[Sailorman Ed]

I would like to tee into a pair of #6 wires going forward to the windlass about half way along, Is there a way to do this without cutting into the wire and adding 2 more terminals (want to avoid adding more resistance/possible corrosion points).

[donradcliffe]

What size wire do you want to T in?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Sailorman Ed

I would like to tee into a pair of #6 wires going forward to the windlass about half way along, Is there a way to do this without cutting into the wire and adding 2 more terminals (want to avoid adding more resistance/possible corrosion points).

If you want to add two terminals, do it with a terminal strip and jumpers or buss bars, and do it inside a watertight box. Done well, there is no risk, no increase in resistance, and all the terminals you want in the future. The terminals are also protected from accidental shorting contact.

[SailingHarmonie]

As thinwater suggests, there really is no magic shortcut here that is better. Well made terminals and terminal strips are not a source of problems.

I say that with the understanding that most boats do not have onboard the tools to make good terminal connections to 6AWG wire.

[Jammer]

Yes. You can carefully strip about 1" of the insulation with a knife, wrap the new wires tightly 4-5 times, and solder using a high-wattage iron and 63/37 rosin-core solder. I have a nice 175w iron that I use for stuff like that. Then tape the completed connection. The tap wire should run along the 6 gauge wire for several inches and be securely taped to it for mechanical strength.


Someone will be along shortly to point out that:
1) You have to be good at soldering, this is probably not the project to learn on
2) Whatever your purpose is for doing this, there's probably a better way to achieve the results you want.


But I thought I'd just answer the question for you with no lecture, so there you go.

[Sailorman Ed]

thanks Jammer, I was thinking that but I've never soldered that large wire.


Harmonie and Thinwater, I do have a large crimper ( and small one) so I will do it that way. I was under the impression that every juction adds a slight amount of resistance.


Don - will attache some #10 to power a small electric water heater in the head

[wholybee]

Don't forget that the smaller wire will need a fuse. Having a fuse hidden in some cabinet halfway along that run might make it worthwhile to run a separate wire to avoid it.

[GordMay]

Split Bolt Connector
➥ https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/Pr...-SC2/p/1701161

[dlj]

After just spending three days tearing apart a large section of my wiring harness to find and then correct a less than ideal electrial connection, thinwaters suggestion would be the only way to do this if you want to keep the boat for any length of time.

dj

[thinwater]

For me, the give away was "2 terminal points." This just cries for a small sub-junction box. Troubleshooting and future work will benefit. It can be very simple, perhaps even a pair of studs in a box.


It is tempting to define and empty space as a box, but if there is ANY chance something could fall into the space and either damamge the wires or cause a short it is not an enclosure. The installer the PO used to put an anchor windlass on the PDQ did a neat job, except the solenoid backup up into a locker that the PO kept an umbrella in. When I inspected the boat they were inches from a disaster. I installed an enclosure around the back of the solenoid.

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Split Bolt Connector
➥ https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/Pr...-SC2/p/1701161

Great solution Gord. This is how my house AC service entrances ie wired. Just tape the hell out of it.

[Jammer]

Split bolts will work; I have used them occasionally especially for bonding/grounding/earthing. They are prone to high-resistance connections especially if the wires are subject to movement. Often I will use three of them in a row, or use one and then solder.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Great solution Gord. This is how my house AC service entrances ie wired. Just tape the hell out of it.

And just use "self amalgamating " tape. It's rubber tape you stretch and wrap and it self adheres into an unloosening glob of rubber.

[Montanan]

The properly rated fuse or breaker for the low current wire of the T should be near the junction, say within a foot, preferably in the recommended junction box and be readily and speedily accessible.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Montanan

The properly rated fuse or breaker for the low current wire of the T should be near the junction, say within a foot, preferably in the recommended junction box and be readily and speedily accessible.

Absolutely.