Teeing into a pair of #6 wires

[Sailorman Ed]

Thanks Gord, I actually have a few of these in my electrical parts drawer for the house. I hadn't considered it, I wonder if I can "tin" it. I have some "tinning solution" left over I will try.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Sailorman Ed

Thanks Gord, I actually have a few of these in my electrical parts drawer for the house. I hadn't considered it, I wonder if I can "tin" it. I have some "tinning solution" left over I will try.

Burndy’s Type “KSU” Split Bolt Connectors, with spacer, are Tin Plated, and are available with a plastic cover.
➥ https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/Pr...BBolts%253EKSU

[Bruce K]

Get a cannula needle that your T wire will fit into. Strip abour 2" off T wire and lightly solder with a hot iron. Put some heatshrink on the T wire. Feed cannula into #6 wire carefully with lots of wriggling so as not to break any wires. Feed T wire into cannula and through #6, withdraw cannula leaving T wire exposed with long end of T wire protruding. Heat end of T wire with hot iron or small torch, this melts solder inside #6 wire. Cut off excess. Shrink heatshrink. then wind self amalgamating tape over and around both wires to make air/water tight. This will last at least 10 years (from experience) probably for life of wire.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by thinwater

If you want to add two terminals, do it with a terminal strip and jumpers or buss bars, and do it inside a watertight box. Done well, there is no risk, no increase in resistance, and all the terminals you want in the future. The terminals are also protected from accidental shorting contact.

^ This.
And as another poster pointed out, you can make your own terminal block with a pair of bolts and a chunk of HDPE/Starboard, or any one of a dozen other materials.
All the screwing around with solder, tape, and split-bolts with covers and/or more tape is just Rube Goldberg amateur hour.
Not to mention that you'll find yourself accursed by a future owner.

[pcmm]

Please don't "T" into your windlass wire, Just don't or stp away from the DC wiring projects and let the pro's do it for you. If you need to get power to some other device that happens to be along the route of the power wire to your windlass. Run it all the way back to the panel so you can fuse/breaker it properly and so that it doesn't create a future potential failure point for the windlass supply. Because you know, things like this don't fail on a nice sunny day. It will decide that the solder joint will corrod and or break in the middle of a crappy stormy night when you're dragging or need to reanchor somewhere else.

[vanderd]

I grew up with a master electrician and saw a lot of wiring Fo-Pa’s over the years that we had to correct. What you’re considering is very unconventional and I would strongly suggest not doing it. Run a separate circuit with the appropriate breaker. Adding a breaker mid circuit would be weird and over time probably forgotten and not breakering the smaller wire would be dangerous.

[P3sailor]

Do not perform this particular procedure, it's a farmduck method and could create more issues. Do what others have recommended and use a terminal strip.

[At Peace]

You really should search ABYC Electrical Standards. I wouldn't be surprised if they recommend terminal strips.