Smartgauge vs Mastervolt Easyview-5 vs Simarine Pico

[Kenomac]

I'm wondering if the Simarine might be too much trouble to hook for the additional information I hope to obtain? We don't need additional tank volume monitoring, since we already have tank tenders and dip sticks. The solar production data from individual panels would be nice, but I can quickly obtain the same using my Fluke clamp meter from the solar cables which are easily accessible in the cockpit.

If the Mastervolt unit will be as simple to install as putting in the Mastervolt Smart Shunt, the Masterbus and the display.... I can do that myself.

I really just need to see SOC, Voltage, flow rate of amps in- amps out and status of house bank, engine start battery and generator start battery.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

Two chargers.

Mastervolt 24/50 and Mastervolt 24/75 providing redundancy and combined 125amp charging, and the Magnetronic displays a constant charger display of amps going into the batteries via generator, solar and alternator through the Magnetronic master shunt.

Ah. Nice system.

Without having done any research at all, my first choice (of the ones you mentioned) -- and pending examination of actual factoids -- would likely start with the Mastervolt EasyView-5 then. But that's more of my "buying philosophy" approach, not really an evaluation of specific products.

-Chris

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

If the Mastervolt unit will be as simple to install as putting in the Mastervolt Smart Shunt, the Masterbus and the display.... I can do that.

I think one danger of the Pico is that it will do so much there is a temptation of making the installation complex.

However, if you want to keep things simple you only need install one shunt and the display. I am not trying to talk you into the Pico, as I have not had an opportunity to evaluate the monitor in any detail, but I am just pointing out that it need not be complex, which might not be clear from what I have posted.

[noelex 77]

Thanks for the detailed post Rene.

Installing two "dumb" shunts in series is no problem.

However, battery monitors typically use "smart shunts" which means the shunt itself draws some power. If you install two battery monitors with smart shunts one of the shunts will not measure the power draw of shunt that is mounted on the battery side.

So one battery monitor will not be reading the total power draw out of the battery, which needs to be done for accuracy. The good news is the power draw of an active shunt is typically very small, but not always totally insignificant, especially if the monitor uses this to supply power to the display. The Pico display has a separate power supply so I suspect the shunt consumption is so tiny it can be ignored, but I have not measured this. It would be worth checking together with your other shunt.

[john61ct]

Braver man than I Gunga Din, trying to get that all hooked up away from home base supply sources.

I think it's safe to say modern AH counting SoC meters from quality vendors will be similarly accurate.

IF they are frequently reset at 100% Full **and** given periodic accurate updates on actual bank AH capacity as that declines.

What really piques my interest is the suggestion in another thread that Simarine has attempted to include SmartGauge-like functionality, which could in theory eliminate those two requirements.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/....php?p=2494016

I would love to be able to afford both a SG and the Pico.

In the meantime look forward to hearing detailed reports and reviews on the Pico over time.

Note the Bogart Pentametric is another coulomb counter with multiple inputs but a much lower count

[ayates]

Originally Posted by ReneJK

go to the fridge , cut the wires , put the 25amp shunt into place and done.

I've always wondered why the manufacturers haven't switched to hall effect devices for current measurement, to eliminate all that wire cutting.


Allan.

[FabioC]

I am interested in this thread as well.
I just installed a Smartgauge, it is too early to say whether it is useful or not.
I guess I simply did not do better and did not do enough research before purchasing (I bit at the Active Captain's promotion without thinking...)

[ReneJK]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

I really just need to see SOC, Voltage, flow rate of amps in- amps out and status of house bank, engine start battery and generator start battery.

This is all I want(ed) as well all the extra's is nice but I really just want to measure the output from the PV panels & wind generator and keep an eye on the 'users' (fridge, freezer etc) and of course SOC

all of that is easily obtained with a much simpler Simarine setup (shunts only) so I am curious as to what you decide as why

please keep us informed

[noelex 77]

Rene

I have checked the specifications for the larger Pico shunts. ie the 300 A and 500 A active shunts. These have identical consumption of 0.8 mA.

I prefer to measure this myself (which I have not done), but assuming these numbers are accurate, if the second battery monitor shunt is installed after the Pico shunt the error over a week would be:
0.0008 x24 x7= 0.13 Ahrs

This consumption is so small it can be safely ignored. There will be some additional errors caused by the resistance in the connections but these will also not be significant. So you can install the second battery monitor shunt after the Pico shunt (in series) and the accuracy of both battery monitors will be essentially unaffected.

Installing two battery monitors should be an interesting comparison. So make sure you post your impressions of their relative performance on Cruisers Forum.

[Kenomac]

In my situation, adding the Mastervolt Easyview 5 will probably make the most sense, because in order to be able to equalize my batteries, I need to add the Mastervolt Masterbus USB anyway to have PC control. So it looks like I can order the Mastervolt Smart Shunt for around $250. This would complete the system with a minimum of wiring and remain within the same reliable manufacturers' products.

Plus installation will be almost idiot proof which suits me just fine. Just 3-5 pre-made cables to plug in like phone jacks.

System would then be comprised of:

Mastervolt 24/50 charger
Mastervolt 24/75 charger
Magnetronic DCC 4000 amp counter with bus
Mastervolt Smart Shunt
Mastervolt Master Bus USB
Mastervolt Easyview-5 monitor and control

[TNRivers]

Have had the Mastervolt system for a few months and am impressed. Switching from shorepower to inverter is so fast, our computer and coffepot don’t even turn off. We are still learning the monitor display, but a useful feature is the system calculating and displaying the number of days or hours of power left with DC amps out at that time and 280 watts of solar into our 650 aH house bank.

[sailcrazy]

Kenomac-don't want to hijack the thread, but can you tell me about your electric cooking. Do you use an inverter? what size? How many watts does ea burner of your your induction cooktop draw-can you run more than 1 burner? How big(watts) is your MW? We also cook with electricity, but our MW draws 1300 watts, and each burner draws 1500watts on our glass-top stove.......we are forced to run the genset to cook! Really curious about the induction cooktop.

[sailcrazy]

PS....we're using 2 Xantrax/Link 20 monitors, to monitor each of the 3 batteries in our house bank, and an isolated, separate starter battery of our genset and engine. and I use a digital VM on the house system after the 3 batts are combined. Coupled with 340 watts of solar and a small windgen, plus running the genset at least once each day (with the batt chgr turned On) for cooking and refer ops seems to keep us consistently topped up. Only problem after some 15 years of use....the Link 20s are no longer supported/made,so we're looking for a replacement, too.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by TNRivers

Have had the Mastervolt system for a few months and am impressed. Switching from shorepower to inverter is so fast, our computer and coffepot don’t even turn off. We are still learning the monitor display, but a useful feature is the system calculating and displaying the number of days or hours of power left with DC amps out at that time and 280 watts of solar into our 650 aH house bank.

That would be a nice feature, do you find it to be accurate? Do you have essentially the same set up as we do?

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

Kenomac-don't want to hijack the thread, but can you tell me about your electric cooking. Do you use an inverter? what size? How many watts does ea burner of your your induction cooktop draw-can you run more than 1 burner? How big(watts) is your MW? We also cook with electricity, but our MW draws 1300 watts, and each burner draws 1500watts on our glass-top stove.......we are forced to run the genset to cook! Really curious about the induction cooktop.

The inverter is a Mastervolt 2500w inverter to 110w ac (US boat). For cooking off only the inverter, we can use two NuWave induction cooktops at a time provided that neither is turned up to the 'high" setting, or one cooktop and the NuWave infrared oven at a time. When we use the microwave or the Nespresso machine, they need to be used separately and alone off the inverter, the other cooktops/oven need to be turned off. If we need more juice, we turn on the generator and then can use everything at the same time since they're on separate breakers, and we also make water at that time.

The micowave is the smallest size, the NuWave cooktop is 1300w on the highest setting.