Crimping issue with FTZ 1-2 AWG Power Lugs & 2 AWG Cable

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by GordMay

It turns out that the 2/0 Lug picture is used for all the cable lugs.

Exactly why I kept spec'ing the FTZ part#, download the parts catalogs for details, the online pics aren't helpful.

Won't repeat, stand by my posts above.

OP likely solved it by now, hopefully will give a post-mortem.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

Is the insulation marked as "Boat Cable", UL 1426? If not, it could be SAE cable which, on average, has about 12% less copper in it and, as a result, has smaller OD.

OP claimed genuine Ancor from a reputable source, right?

Pretty sure that guarantees BC 5W2, UL1426 105 deg 600 volt boat cable.

If Ancor puts its name on the 50V automotive rated stuff, SAEJ1127, I'd be very surprised.

But if that is the case OP got ripped off or ordered the wrong wire, ceratinly explains their problem.

[ayates]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

FTZ makes two sets of "pink H-H" lugs - the 9173x are rated for 2AWG, the 9174x are 1-2. I'd try to get at least one of the 9173x series and test it out.

Anybody have a source to purchase the 9173x series in retail quantities. The one link mentioned sells in quantities of 1,000


Thanks,


Allan.

[mitiempo]

It only stands to reason that a lug for 1 and 2 gauge will be loose on 2 gauge. Lugs should be specific to the wire gauge used. All the lugs I use are for one gauge only and fit perfectly.
Even with smaller gauges I use the larger of the 2 gauges - for example I use 10 gauge in a 12-10 connector, and 14 gauge in a 16-14 connector.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by ayates

Anybody have a source to purchase the 9173x series in retail quantities.

9103X are the other ones Alan @ bay-marine sells

also Fisheries Supply I believe

If you know you really want the 9173x, maybe give FTZ a call

[CharlieJ]

John61ct: Worth asking the question as the photo supplied by OP looked like the cable had been re-spooled and many don’t know of the difference between SAE “boat cable” and UL 1426 “boat cable”.

[john61ct]

Yes in looking back does not say that Alan sold the wire. Lots of scammers out there

[ayates]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

John61ct: Worth asking the question as the photo supplied by OP looked like the cable had been re-spooled and many don’t know of the difference between SAE “boat cable” and UL 1426 “boat cable”.

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

Is the insulation marked as "Boat Cable", UL 1426? If not, it could be SAE cable which, on average, has about 12% less copper in it and, as a result, has smaller OD.

The cable is definitely re-spooled. The cable is marked "Boat Cable", but nothing obvious I can see about UL 1426; just indicates UL. Does Ancor even make a non-UL1426 cable? Assuming the cable is not counterfeit.

Originally Posted by john61ct

If Alan is your supplier for everything give him a buzz in the morning, very responsive.

Nothing back from Alan yet (he is my supplier of lugs and crimper). Also pinged FTZ today.


Thanks,

Allan.

[ayates]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Yes in looking back does not say that Alan sold the wire. Lots of scammers out there

Lugs and crimper came from Alan @ Bay Marine, cable came from Powerwerx (I was getting a bunch of Anderson Powerpole connectors at the same time).


Allan.

[john61ct]

BC-5W2 is just the heat rating, subset of UL 1426, aka "boat cable".

Link to the wire source? There certainly are counterfeits out there if you just shop on price.

Pacer, EPM and Berkshire Wire are just as good as Ancor, less likely to be overpriced.

I buy from bestboatwire.com, sister website to genuinedealz, great for custom terminated lengths.

[john61ct]

Have you gone through these yes?
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/....php?p=2910028

[Dave9111]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge


I think the wire diameter changes based on the stranding. If the stranding is very fine, the wire diameter is smaller than if the wire stranding is coarse. The wire gauge is based on the equivalent copper cross sectional area compared to a solid wire. See the link.



So if the lug is designed for coarse power wire, then the ID will be larger than if the lug is designed for finely stranded or solid wire.



At least this is the only sense I can make of lug sizing! I try to fit the lug to the wire, make sure it is not too sloppy and then crimp it on securely.



The Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper does a nice job for heavy cables. And its cheap. The same tool is available on Amazon. Its also capable of swaging stainless fittings for life lines - when using hand swage fittings. :-)

[MVDarlin]

I solder these connections. Easy with torch and flux. Apply solder to lug opening a base of ring. Use forceps to hold. Heat at base of lug, apply solder and it will draw into the flux. Great connection.

[Dave9111]

Soldering is fine if you have no vibration, however in a vibration situation, crimping is actually more reliable. You just need to seal the connection with liquid tape or tape it up well so keep corrosion out.



Soldering creates a hard spot outside of the lug where the copper will tend to break strands with vibration.

[ayates]

Still haven't got to the bottom of this yet, but just made another interesting observation...


Bay Marine sold me all my connectors, including the power lugs and butt splices. They were all listed on their web site as AWG 1-2. However, in using a butt splice yesterday, I observed that cables fit nicely in it. Comparing the ID of a power lug and a butt splicer, the butt splice is noticeably smaller.



So either the butt splice is actually the 2 AWG version, or something else is amiss.




Allan.