60A or higher controller

[BlackHeron]

I have been more than happy with my EPEVER 40A MPPT controller. They have various 60A units under $300. Less if you don't need or want the remote.


We go 7-8 months at a time without so much as pulling out the shorepower cord, and don't even own a generator. I've never had so much as a blip of an issue with our smaller EPEVER 40A controller.

[skipgundlach]

In an absolutely perfect world, our 720w could produce 60A.

Yet, in the time we've had them, the very most, and at that only once, briefly, we've ever seen has been 50A. Otherwise, and that not very often, it's in the low to mid 40s.

What does a controller do if it gets more amps than it's rated for? Ignore them (put out the max rated)? Burst into flames (or equivalent)? Something else?

The sources I've looked at have Victron 50 and 60 amp controllers widely separated in price, and I need every available dollar for the other stuff going on in our electrical life...

[GILow]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

In an absolutely perfect world, our 720w could produce 60A.



Yet, in the time we've had them, the very most, and at that only once, briefly, we've ever seen has been 50A. Otherwise, and that not very often, it's in the low to mid 40s.



What does a controller do if it gets more amps than it's rated for? Ignore them (put out the max rated)? Burst into flames (or equivalent)? Something else?



The sources I've looked at have Victron 50 and 60 amp controllers widely separated in price, and I need every available dollar for the other stuff going on in our electrical life...

Nice to see someone else uses ammeters with their solar. I was starting to think I was the only one.

[Statistical]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

In an absolutely perfect world, our 720w could produce 60A.

Yet, in the time we've had them, the very most, and at that only once, briefly, we've ever seen has been 50A. Otherwise, and that not very often, it's in the low to mid 40s.

What does a controller do if it gets more amps than it's rated for? Ignore them (put out the max rated)? Burst into flames (or equivalent)? Something else?

The sources I've looked at have Victron 50 and 60 amp controllers widely separated in price, and I need every available dollar for the other stuff going on in our electrical life...

The "50" in a victron energy solar charge controller is the output power. Just like it uses power point tracking to get the maximum power out in low power conditions it will use power point tracking to limit the output power. If the available power from the solar array exceeds that it will just max out at 50A. So your output curve from sunrise to dusk will have a flat part around noonish at 50A.

A caveat is that separate from the output current a solar charge controller will also have to important INPUT limits a "Maximum PV open circuit voltage" and a "Max. PV short circuit current" that can't be exceeded. Exceeding these values will lead to "bad stuff" (TM) where bad stuff means anything from won't charge to blown fuse to you destroyed your expensive charge controller.

As an example here is spec sheet for Victron MPPT 100 50
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-100-50-EN.pdf

Maximum PV open circuit voltage 100V
Max. PV short circuit current: 60A

You can usually find those values on your solar panel spec sheet. If the panels are in parallel then add the short circuit currents together. If they are in series then add the open circuit voltage values.

I am pretty sure other MPPT solar charge controllers work the same way but I only have experience with victron energy. Check the spec sheets and owners manual to verify.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Statistical

The "50" in a victron energy solar charge controller is the output power. Just like it uses power point tracking to get the maximum power out in low power conditions it will use power point tracking to limit the output power. If the available power from the solar array exceeds that it will just max out at 50A. So your output curve from sunrise to dusk will have a flat part around noonish at 50A.

A caveat is that separate from the output current a solar charge controller will also have to important INPUT limits a "Maximum PV open circuit voltage" and a "Max. PV short circuit current" that can't be exceeded. Exceeding these values will lead to "bad stuff" (TM) where bad stuff means anything from won't charge to blown fuse to you destroyed your expensive charge controller.

As an example here is spec sheet for Victron MPPT 100 50
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-100-50-EN.pdf

Maximum PV open circuit voltage 100V
Max. PV short circuit current: 60A

You can usually find those values on your solar panel spec sheet. If the panels are in parallel then add the short circuit currents together. If they are in series then add the open circuit voltage values.

I am pretty sure other MPPT solar charge controllers work the same way but I only have experience with victron energy. Check the spec sheets and owners manual to verify.

Thanks for that.

Our OC amps are about 13 combined, and voltage ~70 (parallel)

So that looks encouraging.

At this point, based on replies elsewhere, it's looking like either Victron or Outback, and a 50A unit in either would be a significant savings over the 60A versions...

I have inquiries to both companies...

L8R

Skip

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Thanks for that.

Our OC amps are about 13 combined, and voltage ~70 (parallel)

So that looks encouraging.

At this point, based on replies elsewhere, it's looking like either Victron or Outback, and a 50A unit in either would be a significant savings over the 60A versions...

I have inquiries to both companies...

L8R

Skip

I currently have the Outback but the Victron is better because it doesn’t need the cooling fan. My 60A Outback Flex has the fan going at 25A already.

[smac999]

Mastervolt has a nice one but It may only be 50a. I can’t recall. Downside is you also need their pc gateway to program it.

[skipgundlach]

After consultation with Victron regarding my experienced and possible solar gain, I've ordered a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/50 50A Bluetooth Charge Controller FEDEX 2nd day shipping.

My inverter-charger will also be here Monday, so we're on the way to being repowered.

In the meantime, my bank has recovered via a 2-battery 20A charger from West, but it has confused the heck out of my TriMetric monitor. The Balmar Smart Gauge shows it up from 43 to, now, 73, and mid-13s voltage.

The separate legs (instructions have it that I put one set on each of the 12V pairs (2x6V), leaving the jumpers paralleling in place, started at 10A each and have now floated off to about 5A each; the lights on the plug-in-the-wall charger indicate that boat batteries are charged, and all is well.

We're continuing to run only the barest minimums other than refrigeration; I'd put the freezer up to minimize the draw, but have now returned it to close to where I had it before. Today, if all remains as before, I'll drop it to where it was when we started.

Restoration continues apace. Bloody nuisance, but the boat is fine, the admiral is shell-shocked, and the captain is just getting on with business, but both are unharmed other than an interesting bruise on her leg, and we'll see how we get on.

Thanks for all the support and info. At least for Victron, my 20% max potential over-enthusiasm is a non event, though the most I'll, now, ever get from my array, will be 50A.

L8R, y'all.

Skip

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

At this point, based on replies elsewhere, it's looking like either Victron or Outback, and a 50A unit in either would be a significant savings over the 60A versions...

I have inquiries to both companies...

L8R

Skip

I think that would be a mistake. I have 640W solar and it heats up my Outback Flexmax60 enough to kick in the cooling fan in the afternoon with 40 amps output. While your solar bank works math wise for a 60A controller, it is close. If it were me in your place (with a battery killing history ) I would get the 80A controller just for the extra cooling margin in the belief that this would be longer life for short money boatwise.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

In an absolutely perfect world, our 720w could produce 60A.

Yet, in the time we've had them, the very most, and at that only once, briefly, we've ever seen has been 50A. Otherwise, and that not very often, it's in the low to mid 40s.

What does a controller do if it gets more amps than it's rated for? Ignore them (put out the max rated)? Burst into flames (or equivalent)? Something else?

The sources I've looked at have Victron 50 and 60 amp controllers widely separated in price, and I need every available dollar for the other stuff going on in our electrical life...

A controller fed more power than it can use simply just clips at max output. It’s like plugging in a table lamp to a 20 amp circuit, the lamp only uses one. The controller is like that lamp.
Outback has a fan, I rarely ever hear ours, it’s mounted behind the settee cushions, ours is an 80, and I think the, fan May come on about 50 or so. Battery acceptance usually won’t take 50 amps by the time of day that the panels can make or exceed 50, so the fan is rare to hear.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Yesterday, when we arrived there were brilliant flashes and some smoke (not much left, likely) coming from the now-dead Blue Sky Solarboost 6024 controller.

I could not tell you, so would have had to spend precious time looking, where my tools for the MC4 connectors were.

Fortunately, I'd also not put on more shrink-wrap when I put blocking diodes in line on the positive legs, as it would have further delayed me.

But I was able to depress the clips far enough, one at a time, with my fingers, to allow the legs to disconnect.

I'd have had to cut the lines if it were hardwired...

2 points for connectors

In the meantime, the search continues apace; a friend is, unfortunately in the beginning of the auction for his OutBack Power FM60-150VDC FLEXMax 60 Charge Controller (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outback-Fle...y/402350566607, if you're interested), so it won't be available for a while.

Outback and Victron are my leaning currently; I sure wish that BS still made the 60A charger...

I would have just opened my combiner box and opened the fuses, they lever open, no tools required

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I would have just opened my combiner box and opened the fuses, they lever open, no tools required

I don't have a combiner box

I'll wait until I have the new controller installed, and after dark, to install/reconnect the CM4s.

As I virtually never went into the ER to look at the LCD panel, but did notice the light blinks as seen from the ER door, the lack of that information likely will not distress me on our new controller (Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/50 50A Bluetooth Charge Controller).

I have not yet dug into my files to recall how the wiring for my prior unit laid out, but I'm hopeful that I can use it without modification on the Victron...

L8R

Skip

[BlackHeron]

You have 720w of solar panels all wired in parallel without a combiner box or fuses protecting the individual panels from each other?

That's a fire waiting to happen IMHO.

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by GILow

Nice to see someone else uses ammeters with their solar. I was starting to think I was the only one.

The Outback units have a digital display and you can see the amps output. I suspect the Victron would have that too but don't know.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

The Outback units have a digital display and you can see the amps output. I suspect the Victron would have that too but don't know.

The only view you get from the Victrons is via the app. My old Votronics had remote display panels, and I missed them when I went to Victron.

So I run my two Victron 100/30 controllers through shunts with analogue gauges. The biggest advantage of the two analogue gauges side by side is you quickly spot if you have a shading issue, particularly on the bimini.

I had the same effect with the digital displays but it was less obvious, you had to look properly, read the numbers displayed, and think about it a moment. With the analogue gauges you get instant clarity.

Of course, running the controllers through shunts gives you a small voltage drop, but the Victron smartsense on the battery bank gets around that by telling the controllers the voltage that is actually arriving at the bank.

Overall, a pretty good system.