Mahe 36: Original FP Mahe 36 Thread

[DtM]

I guess mine might be blocked. The only time I over filled it I got a bit of splash on the deck not out of any vent!!

Well now I have a couple of jobs for Friday afternoon.

d

[jean1146]

If I am not carefull mine will overflow every time....what a mess.I have had big following seas on our maiden voyage and never had any problems with water in fuel but I guess it would be a good idea to move it elsewhere.
JC.

[Cotemar]

Dear Friends,

We announced to you a few months ago, our second Fountaine Pajot Rendezvous, which will be held in the British Virgin Islands from the 28th April to the 1st of May 2010.
We hope you have received our program.
Please find additional information regarding this event:
· A cruise from Saint-Martin to Norman Island with clearance will be organized on
Monday 26th of April for all the participants: Contact: Peter Cohen, Caribbean Multihulls,
email: petercohen01@gmail.com Tel +(590) 590 872 652
· The US magazine Cruising World, will organize a treasure Hunt around Virgin Gorda from the Bitter Yacht Club on the 30th of April.
It would be great if you could join us at this unique Rendezvous in the Virgin Islands.
Would you first inform us of your participation intention and secondly what kind of Fountaine Pajot Catamaran you will plan to participate with.

Please send us all these information before the 20th December at helene.de.fontainieu@fountaine-pajot.com in order to finalize the parties with the suppliers.

Waiting you for the pleasure to meet you in the BVI,
Lucie-Anne Guyon for Hélène de Fontainieu

Hélène de Fontainieu
Communication & Marketing
+33 (0)6 16 44 86 98
helene.de.fontainieu@fountaine-pajot.com

www.fountaine-pajot.com/rendez-vous_va.pdf

Wednesday 28th of April 2010
Meeting at NormanIsland discovering day
Dinner and party in a special place
Thursday 29th of April 2010
Virgin Gorga The Bath, North Sound
Dinner and party
Friday 30th of April 2010
Treasure Hunt
Saturday 1rst of May 2010
Anegada
Rally
Special dinner

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s,

Here are some good pictures of a Mahe on the Beach.
Stern to instead of Bow to the beach.
Nice to know if you need to paint or do some bottom cleaning and maintenance.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i3.ytimg.com/vi/rGLT43MX_Uw/default.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.youtube.com/user/locationdecatamaran&usg=__PTrxuDzzTcH5ulQKtpIeZ7eU 1BA=&h=90&w=120&sz=2&hl=en&start=139&um=1&itbs=1&t bnid=hUjNp1DOyHTRVM:&tbnh=66&tbnw=88&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmahe%2B36%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa% 3DN%26start%3D126%26um%3D1

Mark

[lstyles]

Do you think it is a good idea to have that boat resting only on its keels and rudders? Is there some other support under there that I am missing?
Lori

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Hi Lori,
The ships are designed so that they only stand on the keels, the rudders are too fragile and pointed.
Fountaine Pajot have their new ships standing on their keels at the wharf and before launching. On wood. The sand is softer.
We have already put our ship on tidal sand a few times, the last time for cleaning the slime off the coppercoat, and to change the propellor anodes. Lots cheaper than hiring a crane!

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

We have the double water tank, but this has only one filling opening.
We found that if you fill both tanks fully, the boat becomes notably slower especially when close-hauled. So we only fill both tanks when we know that it will be difficult to get decent water. For instance when we went to St Petersburg last summer, the water there is reputedly very bad.

If you use only one tank, you might want to:
- Use one tank, then the other, then the first one again
- To close one with a bit of water and chlore in it, or other desinfectant (for instance wodka when going from Russia to Sweden, where alcohol is really very expensive)
For this you need a second filler port. I mounted one, see attached picture. Ouch it hurts to make a hole in your hull!

Tips:
- Order the identical filling port from Plastimo.
- When you receive it, try to find well-fitting A4 stainless steel screws. This was difficult, the angle of the screw head was different.
- Buy 75 cm's of 1.5 inch reinforced hose, preferably a supple on since it has to make 2 sharp bends.
- Buy 4 stainless steel hose clamps of suitable diameter
- Borrow a professional drill from the shop where you purchase the filling port. If I remember correctly it's 57 mm
- Drill a hole exactly symmetrical to the starboard filling port.
- Drill the 3 holes for mounting
- Clean the gelcoat with acetone. Apply white sealant of your preference to the filling port. Sikaflex is not UV-resistant and will become yellow on the edges. Silicone does not hold very well.
- Screw in the filling port. Remove excess kit when half dry with a plastic knife.
- The second tank has a filling pipe which is closed at the top. With a really sharp knife, cut through the filling pipe about 8 mm below the top. This takes some patience.
- Heat the filling hose in hot water to bend it twice
- Fit the hose with the hose clamp.
- There is a plastic key on the market (locally 8 euro) for opening . closing the filling cap. Prevents over-tightening and damaging of the aluminium filling caps by over-enthousiastic people.

Nice thing is you'll now have a perfectly round sample of your hull's sandwich construction.

[Cotemar]

Jef,

Great Idea adding the extra Port water tank deck fill.
I will add it to my todo list.

That is also great for those of us that have to winterize, because you have to put a lot of antifreeze in the Stb. tank before any goes into the Port tank.

Mark

[DtM]

On closer investigation over the weekend I found a diesel leak that had been slowly dripping onto the engine and pooling in the bilge.

It is a return line that had corroded. Replacement on the way.

Thank you all for your help.

The weather was great, beautiful warm days and nights and a good breeze on Sunday.

Checked the fuel vent. clean as a whistle.

[Whimsical]

Originally Posted by Jef & Marin, Netherlands

Nice thing is you'll now have a perfectly round sample of your hull's sandwich construction.

I do hope u did something to seal the core where you have cut the hole and where any screws are used into the core.

Mike

[Wayward Wind]

My Furunos have stopped displaying True Wind, Depth and Water Speed. The manual says it could be sensor or cable. I opened the panelling above the stove and checked that the cables were secured. I also noticed that the two displays are linked by a cable, but there is no cable attached to the sensor link on the display.

Anyone know where else I can check the cables?

Cheers!

JohnC

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Wayward wind, we have had exactly the same problem. The tridata sensor (depth TSW and water temp) and the wind instrument are on NMEA 2000, autopilot and GPS are on NMEA0183. Inbetween them is a Simrad NMEA2000 / NMEA0183 conversion module. It is located behind the fridge in a big space, accessible from the starboard hull, just behind the bathroom door.
What is most likely wrong in your case is that the module's translation from NMEA2000 to NMEA0183 is defect. The other direction might be OK, as was in our case. So you might be able to see SOG, from the GPS, on your tridata readout.
The wires of this module are connected inside a small grey connection box. Reconnecting required soldering in my case. There might also be connectors that are single-use, so you might require screw connectors.

Our module was replaced under warranty.
The defect might have been caused by lightning, I'm not sure about that

See attached photo of the module
Good luck, regards,
Jef

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

John, I might have jumped to conclusions about the module because I did not read your problem well enough. But still the problem might be over there, if not in the module then in the wiring.
Seeing that both sensors do not display, it is probably not the wind instrument. Also, if the tridata sensor malfunctioned you would still see the wind data, so I am a bit puzzled. So maybe it is the wiring or something connected to it. This something could be the interface module I mentioned.
Alternatively the termination resistance of the NMEA2000 network could be at fault. One of the instruments is programmed to have a termination resistance. On the other end of the long cable, inside the grey box, is the other termination resistor.
I would suggest you disconnect the Simrad interface module on the NMEA2000 side, it might then work again if the module is defect. If this does not help, try to disconnect the tridata instrument.
If you want to discuss send me a private email to exchange phone / skype details.
Jef

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Mike I did seal the screws, but not the side of the hole. It is basically inside the boat, where no water should come. And it is a closed cell foam. But still I agree it is always better to prevent water intrusion. I'll see if I can still do this without taking it out again.
Thanks, Jef

[Cotemar]

Wayward Wind,

As Jef said this is all NMEA 2000 and all your electronics are connected by a NMEA 2000 cable.
Attached is a diagram of your electronics showing the cable.
These NMEA 2000 plugs have 5 pins or holes for male or female.
This cable must have 12 volts of power also, so check your fuse box.

Mark