Paint type for the bilge

[David B]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

I recently started a thread asking for help with an old old diesel spill in the boat I purchase a month back. There were some great suggestions for cleaning. One person stated that the smell went completely away after painting the bilge.

In the past I have met a few people who have painted their bilges. One told me he used Por 15. A urethane product that I have used on machinery. It dries hard and it very durable. Another person on this form said he uses Rustloleum (with acetone thinner and Varathane accelerator) for his bilge and was satisfied with the results.
I have never been convienced that a product labled "Marine" is much different from a "Non Marine" product, other than an exorbitant cost.
I would like to hear what others have tried and the results.

For me it would always be flowcoat - pigmented two-pack polyester resin, as the manufacturers use.

[Celestialsailor]

We have a similar product here called Polycore. Essentially a white gelcoat with wax so i will kick.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

It is a marine product, but we have been very, very happy with Jotamastic 87. There are non-marine versions of similar epoxy mastics that I have not tried. Made to go over poorly prepared surfaces and stick. We did our engine rooms and cockpit lazarette lockers about 4 years ago and have been quite satisfied. Now if only I could find a source in the US as I have a couple of lockers forward that are in need of paint....

If you look at the link you provided there are 4 dealers in the US and 4 in Canada as well.

[KWISPEL]

A quiq response to Make My Day,

If you have condensation, special in a steel boat, is the solution to keep the condensation away not a dehumidifier like this one without compressor?

https://www.kokwatersport.nl/meaco-l...-junior/p62163

[rognvald]

Hi, C,
We painted our bilge with Interlux bilge Paint (grey) before we left Chicago en route to St. Lawrence River/Northern Quebec/ Gulf of St Lawrence in 2018. We did a meticulous prep/application and it lasted only 2 years before flaking. We're going to try Petit on our next haulout here in Florida. Safe sailing . . . Rognvald

[EllesBelles]

We upgraded the surfaces of our bilges (and engine compartment, lockers, etc) with Amerlock 400, which is a super-durable 2 part epoxy paint. It's designed for tough marine environments. We heard it was the paint of choice in nuclear submarines. A plus is that you can have the color customized to any shade you want.

https://www.ppgpmc.com/protective/po...g-amerlock-400

If you're doing it yourself, just be sure you use good respirator epoxy-grade breathing protection until it dries

[kapnd]

I’ll second Elles Bells recommendation for the PPG Industrial coatings.
They’re not cheap, but are absolutely the toughest coatings I’ve ever encountered.

[Make_My_Day]

Originally Posted by KWISPEL

A quiq response to Make My Day,

If you have condensation, special in a steel boat, is the solution to keep the condensation away not a dehumidifier like this one without compressor?

https://www.kokwatersport.nl/meaco-l...-junior/p62163

We do use a dehumidifier with a compressor from Eurom. It works quite well but not completely in the bilge and hull below the waterline where there is no insulation. Since we live onboard we try to keep the boat warm in the winter but the water is still colder. So some condensation does occur.

The Moist Metal Grip is also supposed to be a thermal insulator so we’ll see how it does this winter. So far so good. The water temperature is 10C and the air temp is kept around 20C. With the dehumidifier on of of course.

Still I may need to find a way to increase air circulation through the bilge.

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by Lepke

Bilgekote looks best and lasts for years.

Lepke!

Where the hell've you been, ya Wanderer!

Celestial, Lepke is one of the Saltiest of all Salty Dawgs on this Forum.

What he said.

Warmly,
LittleWing77

[Cadence]

I had read, back when, that latex paint gets along well with polyester lay ups. A good grade of flat latex house paint would work well in the bilge since you don't care about a mirror finish.

[Jdeuel]

To the OP-

You mentioned POR-15 had been recommended. Do you know if it was the 2-part urethane, or their rust coat? Product looks solid, and I was looking at both on Amazon.

It seems like the lightest color the latter comes in is gray, while the 2 part comes in lots of options.

Thanks! Jeff

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Jdeuel

To the OP-

You mentioned POR-15 had been recommended. Do you know if it was the 2-part urethane, or their rust coat? Product looks solid, and I was looking at both on Amazon.

It seems like the lightest color the latter comes in is gray, while the 2 part comes in lots of options.

Thanks! Jeff

I honestly do not remember.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by BlackHeron

Whatever you decide to try always think about plan B and what you will do when it starts peeling up and something else needs to be done.

Chips of paint and bilge pumps dont mix. And you can't just paint over a failing paint coating with just anything. Paints need to be compatible. Do your research and know what is compatible with what and what yiur future options are next time covering what you are now using.

Going back to that expensive but effective marine 2-part coating may not be possible over the cheap econo-failure without Completely sanding/grinding every trace of the underlying failed paint treatment. There are some special primers that can be used sometimes but if the underlying coat is peeling it's gotta be completely removed, a primer isn't going to help that no matter how good it is.


After removing failed paint attempts from really PITA areas I will never again go cheap or use a 1-part paint anywhere on a boat again. It just isn't worth it.

Also, read the damn instructions. If they are too hard to read on the can or the box then download the instructions and paperwork available online. Most painting issues are from doing stuff or mixing components that the manufacturer already told you wont work right there in the literature.

Very much agree with this! I like clean and bright bilge, but the only way to get to it is by a lot of prep work. Personally, I can only recommend an epoxy - I used Interprotect 2000E white that worked well on the original bilge paint and the results are great, as you can see in the pic here.

Now, after a year and a significant diesel leak into the bilge - still holding very well and the odors were gone after a good washing with pressure spraying of Palmolive citrus scent dish soap.

[MEC]

The gold standard for bilge painting is:
AWL-Grip D803 primer off white
AWL-Grip G8010 off white base topcoat
AWL Cat 3 brush catalyst for brushing and rolling
AWL-Grip TOO31 reducer
Read instructions carefully!!!!!


However, there is an alternative to Awlgrip for this application, that is also much lower toxicity/hazardous painting system produced by Alexseal Coatings. Uncured Alexseal paint can be cleaned up with fresh water. Alexseal paints are two part, polyurethane paint, that does not require a primer. Alexseal interior paint does not have anti-UV additives, perfect for bilge spaces.



I hope this is useful.

[jdecris]

I've used Interlux Bilgekote with very good results on several boats, both in the bilge and other projects warranting a durable enamel coating.

When refinishing the bilge, the prep however is very important. The areas most difficult to reach and attend to - inside corners, low spots, etc. - are the most import to reach and address.

Before painting:

1. scrape to ensure no loose surface remains - literally try hard to remove old paint

2. wipe repeatedly with solvent to remove all traces of oils, etc. - repeat, all traces of oils, etc.

3. sand to remove all shine

4. vacuum to remove all dust

5. wipe again with solvent

6. know and control temperature and humidity per manufacturer's instructions

7. prime per manufacturer's instructions

8. second finish coat - apply unless one finish coat is uniformly sound and proper thickness

9. between coats, sand / knock down any spots that aren't smooth - hard or sharp edges do not hold paint


After painting, give the paint time to set up and dry - this is usually days and days. The more ventilation and favorable temp and humidity the better the final result.

This is not easy work, and relatively thankless, because unless you bring the troops down into the bilges or engine room, no one will notice or care.

But we do enjoy a clean and bright bilge...