What the heck is this for?

[silvercreek]

New to boat electronics, but not electronics in general. What is the purpose of this grey bank (highlighted in red)? Some of the slots have fuses, but most don't.

[Diamond-Esp]

That's an industrial terminal rail, mounted on a DIN rail. Very common in electrical cabinets, I am guessing the person who installed it was an electrician or technician and happen to come across some excess parts at work!! Looks great doesn't it!!

[silvercreek]

Yes, you are right! Now that you provided the name I was able to find this very helpful page (for anyone else who happens to come across this in the future): https://www.electricaleasy.com/2018/...ock-types.html

Is the input always on the top? I assume not… in my case I think the input is actually on the bottom.

[Diamond-Esp]

No, it doesn't matter, although it would be best to be consistent. At least it is all labelled up so easy to work your way through it.

[HeinSdL]

I recognize the Simarine circuitry, it's a nice piece of kit to have

[Nicholson58]

Our 1984 Camper $ Nicholson58 has several rows of this. Number correspond to circuit numbers on the manufacture’s circuit drawings. All of our wiring is numbered at each end.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Diamond-Esp

That's an industrial terminal rail, mounted on a DIN rail.

Exactly correct.

The Din rail is just a (usually) metal track where various electric devices can be easily clipped in place. There are a multitude of devices that are available for this standard rail system. Circuit breakers, timer units, fuse blocks and terminal strips of various sizes and number of wire connectors etc, etc. It is a very versatile system that is common on European boats.

The main purpose of the strip shown in this case is to allow the wires from the switchboard to be organised, and disconnected from the main wiring on the boat. It also helps with troubleshooting, as the voltage at each of the circuits can be easily checked.

I hope you have the number code .

It appears as if there is mixture of a AC and DC connectors so if working in this area on the DC side make sure none of the AC systems are energised.

[silvercreek]

Originally Posted by Diamond-Esp

No, it doesn't matter, although it would be best to be consistent. At least it is all labelled up so easy to work your way through it.

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Exactly correct.

The Din rail is just a (usually) metal track where various electric devices can be easily clipped in place. There are a multitude of devices that are available for this standard rail system. Circuit breakers, timer units, fuse blocks and terminal strips of various sizes and number of wire connectors etc, etc. It is a very versatile system that is common on European boats.

The main purpose of the strip shown in this case is to allow the wires from the switchboard to be organised, and disconnected from the main wiring on the boat. It also helps with troubleshooting, as the voltage at each of the circuits can be easily checked.

I hope you have the number code .

It appears as if there is mixture of a AC and DC connectors so if working in this area on the DC side make sure none of the AC systems are energised.

Thank you both. Good tip on the 120V. The wiring diagrams were not provided with the boat, but I’ll reach out to the yard to see if they can email them.

[silvercreek]

Originally Posted by HeinSdL

I recognize the Simarine circuitry, it's a nice piece of kit to have

I love it. My next project is to add some additional temp, tank level, and current sensors. Safiery has several useful sensors available including one for the LPG tank (ultrasonic).

The only problem is my water tank">fresh water tank reading has stayed at 100% even as I ran it dry. Simarine reports 178ohm constant. Resistance at the in tank level sender is different and slowly creeps up the longer I measure, and never seems to stop on a number. The dealer is dispatching a new level sender.

[caffel]

The 'input' , the power supply buss, is actually behind the array of connectors in the picture.
You will have to lever up one of the narrow output connectors to see the metal buss strip that supplies the power.
Very up-to date, diagnosable and maintainable, although I have not seem them with marine ratings before.

CA

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Diamond-Esp

That's an industrial terminal rail, mounted on a DIN rail. Very common in electrical cabinets, I am guessing the person who installed it was an electrician or technician and happen to come across some excess parts at work!! Looks great doesn't it!!

He was also smart enough to label wires and terminals.

[Shrew]

It's basically a terminal block. The older style uses screws which require that ring terminals be used on the wire end, then the ring terminal screwed onto the terminal block.

This terminal block allow you to simply strip the wire, give the strands a twist and insert them into the hole. There is a screw clamp in connector on the terminal block. When you use a small flathead screwdriver to clamp down on the wire end.

One end runs a circuit from the boat. The other side goes out to the electric device.

[Ramona]

It would be even better if the rails were mounted vertically and the wires came out downwards so any condensation drained away instead of in to the terminals.

[ilanortho]

Speaking of labelled wires, can any one recommend a wire labelling machine that is affordable? I have an old Brady whose batteries are extinct. Shrink wrap or stick-on labels?
Thanks.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Shrew

........

This terminal block allow you to simply strip the wire, give the strands a twist and insert them into the hole. There is a screw clamp in connector on the terminal block. When you use a small flathead screwdriver to clamp down on the wire end.
...........

Even better if the stripped wire is terminated with a bootlace ferrule before inserting into the terminal strip.

https://www.google.com/search?q=boot...client=gws-wiz