Icom 802 wiring through solenoid

[Sulaire]

My 802 is not wired direct to the batteries, but through a cole hersee solid state solenoid. I flick a switch on my instrument panel marked SSB to fire up the system before I can turn the 802 on.

Thing is, the solenoid has developed a fault, whereby it was only allowing 4.5 v through hence the SSB was not turning on.

I have hard wired the ssb to the batteries in the meantime and everything works fine. Just like it shows in the icom manual.

The previous owner had the 802 installed, can anyone tell me the advantage of the solenoid? I live onboard in europe and cannot find a dealer for this solenoid here, should i bother replacing it? Kind of like the idea of not having the ssb "hot" full time.

Thanks in advance

Charlie.

[svinshallah]

1. You need a way to turn off power to the 802 because the radio draws power even when turned off at the radio.
2. A 30-amp toggle switch isn't easy to find and is usually expensive.
3. Since 30-amp circuit breakers are relatively cheap and very easy to find, there is the tendency to hook the radio up to a CB on the panel.
4. This is usually a bad idea because the wiring to most CB panels isn't heavy enough to properly power the radio, hence Icom's recommendation that the radio be connected "directly to the battery."

The simplest but most expensive way is to use one of the Blue Sea remote controlled battery switches. You can control it remotely with a simple momentary toggle switch. Costs about $130 in the US. It's a mechanical solution without the problems of the CH solid-state switch.

The cheapest way is to buy a high-current automotive type relay (Panasonic makes one rated at 70 amps). I use one in my refrigerator and the replacement from Digi-key was under $8. This has a coil that draws about 200ma when the radio is turned on. It can be installed in place of the CH and probably use all the same wiring.

If you can't find it, send me a private message and I'll see if I can find the complete part description.

[btrayfors]

Depends how long the run is to the batteries.

For runs less than 15-20 feet one way, you need AWG6 cable. For longer runs, use AWG4 cable.

These cables need to be fused very near the batteries, and only 3 types of fuses have a high enough ampere interrupt capacity (AIC) to meet ABYC specifications: ANL, MRBF, or Class-T.

BTW, only one type of circuit breaker meets these specs: the new BSS type which has an AIC in excess of 5,000 VDC. Fuses are better, I think.

The specs call for installation of these fuses in BOTH the positive and the negative cables very close to the batteries. ABYC recommends within 7 inches for unprotected cables, or up to 40 inches if in a conduit or if shielded.

I usually install a 12VDC cutoff switch near the radio. The Blue Sea Systems #6006 is perfect for this. It's small, can handle 300A, and it's inexpensive...just over $20.

Bill

[noelex 77]

I would not wire the radio long term, without a means of disconnecting the power.

A relay (or solenoid) is the best way of doing this as it minimises the wiring run and therefore voltage drop.

Any high powered relay is fine. If you have difficulties finding one an anchor winch solenoid should be easy to find.

A solid state relay is is a better as it consumes very little power.
These are expensive, but are the best alternative. (When you buy one check it suitable for DC).

Another alternative is one of the Blue seas remote battery switches. This is really overkill for the application, but therefore will be very durable and may be easier for you to get as many chandleries deal with Blue seas products. This is a latching relay so like a solid state relay very low power consumption.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7700..._-_12V_DC_500A

[smac999]

something like a blue sea 7138 would work. acts as a breaker and the switch. requires manually turning on and off. but a lot cheaper then above stuff. and no power used.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7138...face_Mount_40A

[Sulaire]

Thanks for the ideas, i think i will fit one of these somewhere easy to access, allowing me to stop all power when not using. 100amps rating.

And at around $10 agrees with my budget!

Charlie

[Sulaire]

Not sure pic is working so it is a simple battery isolation switch with red key.

C.

[noelex 77]

The picture is working and your iPad needs charging

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Sulaire

Thanks for the ideas, i think i will fit one of these somewhere easy to access, allowing me to stop all power when not using. 100amps rating.

And at around $10 agrees with my budget!

Charlie

That will work, but a solid-state relay will not be much more expensive, and will be vastly more convenient. That's what Im using.