IP 38 Chainplate Question

[Stumble]

So I just took a look. Below is the chainplate for the IP 380. Front to back its 60" long. This made in G2 titanium (bolted as opposed to welded) runs $1100 a side.

[Dulcesuenos]

I would also factor in a new water tank. Many of the older 38s get pin hole corrosion leaks , especially if the owners use bleach in the tank. The tanks are also a major undertaking to replace necessitating the removal of a lot of flooring.

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[a64pilot]

Mack Sails are going to do mine, they gave me a price of $10,000. I have hull # 41, a 1987 boat.
Mine will be 30 yrs old when they are replaced, assuming the 316L will outlast the 304 that was originally used ( it will ), then likely I will be dead if and when they need replacing again, I don't see the need in titanium myself, but sure, if you want to, why not? Do many boats make it past 60? Chain plate maintenance which consists of keeping them sealed by periodic re-bedding is a known issue, and sort a solved one. Problem is of course you lose a chain plate, maybe you lose the entire rig at the same time.
The water tank concerns me, but I'm going to gamble with it, no way of knowing if it will last 10 more years or start leaking tomorrow, as has been said chlorine seems to be what eats them up. My boat seems to have been barely used, interior was in great shape and the engine had 500 hours on it, I hope that means the water tank is good. I run all water that goes into the tank through a charcoal filter to try to remove the chlorine.
Holding tank is aluminum too, but at least it is real easy to replace, I will have a plastic one made for it. Aluminum holding tanks aren't supposed to last long either, mine has been replaced once and is now 14 yrs old, Probably about to go.
I have never heard of an IP hull blistering, I would be REAL suspicious of that.
Definitely price the boat assuming 10 K for new chain plates, the current owner and broker should expect that, any older IP needs chain plate replacement, if you find one that it has been recently done, it is supposed to add 10K to the value of the boat.


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[UNCIVILIZED]

Look into various types of Non-Destructive Testing (NDT) in order to see what's going on inside of that section of the hull. That way you'll know what is or isn't going on with the chainplates.

I'm thinking that some easily available NDT methods would be x-ray, & thermal imaging. The former is commonly done on rigging, keels, & some rudders. The latter on many aspects of boats during some surveys. And there are lots of others as well. Many of which can be found on NDT Forums, & via other online sources.

Though bottom line, it sounds as if one needs to plan on replacing such chainplates. So unless you're a glutton for punishment, find a sistership that's already been fixed. Or use the knowledge of the problem as a big fiscal bargaining chip in price negotiations, after having some NDT done on the boat.

[01kiwijohn]

Ok thanks everyone. The Cascade plates are relatively accessible so I'll just cut out around the pocket they're in and through bolt the new ones with the backing plates on he outside. Should outlast me.

[sailorman7225]

I suggest you seek further information from IPHOMEPORT.COM and IPYOA.com. Tons of IP experience and knowledge on both sites.

Snead Island Boat Works near Palmetto, FL., has done a lot of work on IP's. They may serve as a good resource as well.