My ground tackle refit

[Hartleyg]

My $0.02:


Overall, a good plan, and should work for you. As others said, 275 feet of chain seems like more than you need unless your cruising area features deep anchorage areas. We carry about 225 feet (3/8" G43) and we've only once considered putting all of it in the water in cruising from Florida/Bahamas to Nova Scotia. But if the extra weight is not an issue, then the more the better
You have the right idea on a snubber - just one thought _ have you looked at putting your snubber on deck? We made the change last year, and we like it a LOT - the snubber (28' of 5/8" 3-strand nylon) is connected between an aft mooring cleat and a Dyneema strop that connects to the chain via a soft shackle. The strop connects to the chain about where the chain hits the water, so not much out front. We guide the setup with several aluminum "rapelling rings" and a low-friction ring to keep the setup out from underfoot and/or chafing on deck hardware.
Two major advantages: less likely to have the snubber wrap around the chain (& foul it) with tidal current & wind shifts, and the amount of tension on the rode is immediately visible to the helms-person (also if the anchor is dragging) in our center cockpit.



Fair Winds!


Hartley
S/V Atsa

[Adelie]

You should order 1’ of the chain now and verify it fits in you gypsy before paying for the whole lot.

I would put 100’ of the chain on the main anchor with 200’ of nylon to extend it. Put another 100’ of the chain in the bilge to extend the main in very deep water and for the backup anchor.

I would put 37’ on several hundred feet of nylon for the biggest Fortress anchor I can handle.

The other 38’ would go on the stern/kedge anchor.

Get a 2nd anchor same size but different maker than the main as a backup. I’d probably get a cheap Bruce. Sometimes a different anchor holds where one doesn’t.

[donradcliffe]

I'd go with all chain. There are bottoms around that eat rope for breakfast.

[Mike OReilly]

Unless you have a good reaon not to go with all-chain, like weight issues at the bow, I certainly would go all-chain.

[Scubaseas]

I would ask Lofrans what rope size fits that gypsy. I'd also buy 12" of chain to make sure it fits before ordering any lengths. Brait is much better rode than three strand, stronger, stows smaller, doesn't kink or twist. I'd go all chain or at least 120' of it. As far as anchor I'd go non roll bar if you will be anchoring in kelp. I currently have a steel Spade and think it quite good but I do use an oversize Fortress in mud if it's going to be windy. Sarca looks like it's good too. I have used a Rocna in the past but not happy with the roll bar getting snagged on stuff. The Spade which is one size up from the chart recommendation has been fine as a primary.

I would add a chain stopper to your list and a washdown pump is nice to have. Your snubber could be longer. Like 40' is about right.

[Don C L]

Well there is the built in snubber to a hybrid rode. I have a hybrid, but I have a little boat and no windlass. I have 100' of 1/4" and then about 1000' of nylon. (Not sure, I haven't ever unloaded the giant spool the PO mounted in the chain locker.) If I have less than 100' out I'll do as the Lat 38 Lee Helm said and attach a nylon dock line snubber. I usually let out 120' of chain + nylon. That way my length of nylon won't be on the bottom in most anchorages. But your boat lifting 5/16 chain probably won't ever see it go taught I'd guess. IN my own case I have about 200' of chain (I bought 300' from another cruiser who wanted heavier chain) plus my old 50' of overkill 5/16, stowed in the bilge and the extra weight there seems to help my little boat's tenderness. If I ever really need it I'll lug the load up to the foredeck and shackle it on. Don't know if that helps at all but it's just another voice in the mix.

[JPA Cate]

I can remember having to anchor in 80 ft. in French Polynesia. Jammer would have as much chain out of the locker as he could get, and it would not yet be 3:1. If he plans a circumnavigation, or even just open-ended exploration, for as long as it's fun, he needs to plan around the odd time where there is nowhere shallower than 65 ft. I'm sure others of us also have to plan around odd conditions. We once "anchored" on a stone bottom, the only place we would have dragged to was deeper water without hazards, and we did drag a little way. One finds odd things off the beaten track.

We knew a guy, a long time ago in Mexico, whose anchor was not secured, who then discovered that his windlass was not strong enough to life anchor and all the chain. He let it all go because he couldn't imagine how to get it back. Not suggesting either would happen to Jammer, but it is a cautionary tale.

Ann

[sv_pelagia]

We changed from 300' G4 5/16th to 230' G4 5/16th AND 170' 3-strand 5/8" line.

Last Summer in Northern BC/Haida Gwaii, we often used 225' of chain, and a few times additionally about 20-30' of the line. This was for scopes of 3.5:1 to 5:1.

I don't think Jammer has "too much" rode.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Since the existing rode is unsuitable we will replace it with 275' of 5/16" HT chain. I am planning on getting Peerless chain from Defender but have not ordered it yet...

A Crosby G-209A alloy shackle and 120' of 3/4" 8-plait nylon rope will complete the rode.

We do not have a chain counter. I am planning on installing the Imtra plastic chain markers (that fit inside the links). Suitable primer for marking the chain with paint has become hard to find. I expect that I will tie some short pieces of colored cord also but will experiment with this after everything is installed.

I've gotten a better price -- compared to Defender, once shipping costs are included -- on ACCO chain from a local chandlery. (Just getting ready to order 200' of 3/8" G4.)

I'd have thought 5/8" 8-plait would be sufficient for the rope segment of your new rode.

We've had OK luck just using zip ties for chain marking.

-Chris

[Knotical]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

I've gotten a better price -- compared to Defender, once shipping costs are included -- on ACCO chain from a local chandlery. (Just getting ready to order 200' of 3/8" G4.)

I'd have thought 5/8" 8-plait would be sufficient for the rope segment of your new rode.

We've had OK luck just using zip ties for chain marking.

-Chris

Chris, does that chandlery provide shipping? Can I have their name?

Thanks

(sorry for the thread drift)

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Knotical

Chris, does that chandlery provide shipping? Can I have their name?

I'd guess so, but don't know for sure.

It's Fawcett's in Annapolis. https://www.fawcettboat.com/

FWIW, the price I've been quoted for chain -- by phone, with email follow-up -- is better than what they show "per foot" on their website.

-Chris

[Jammer]

Thanks, all.


I have called several local chandleries and a high-volume midwest chain supplier and have been unable to find a better delivered price for Peerless chain. There are several sources that have slightly lower delivered prices for Titan chain but the difference is about 10% and I am not as confident of the supply chain for Titan.


The chainwheel is marked "5/16 HT" in debossed letters from the factory and if it won't work with Peerless/ACCO 5/16" HT chain then I'll have to get another chainwheel.


We have sailed some in Lake Superior and Lake Michigan but are far from experienced experts at this point. That is where we will be for a few years. From my limited experience and some chart reading, my observation is that good anchorages are few and far between in many important areas. Shoreline is sheer in many cases with rocky bottoms. The bottom topography is similar to the fjords in northern Europe. We also scuba dive and would like to anchor near some of the wrecks. Many of these are in deeper water and unlike the more popular Florida/Caribbean/etc dive destinations do not have mooring balls.

[rslifkin]

Even on Lake Ontario I've anchored in 30 - 50 feet plenty of times. Not because there wasn't a shallower option available, but because I judged a deep area to be a better spot and everyone else was avoiding it due to wanting shallower water.

Being prepared to anchor deep is useful, as it gives you more choices and sometimes can get you away from the crowds.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by Jammer

We have sailed some in Lake Superior and Lake Michigan but are far from experienced experts at this point. That is where we will be for a few years. From my limited experience and some chart reading, my observation is that good anchorages are few and far between in many important areas. Shoreline is sheer in many cases with rocky bottoms. The bottom topography is similar to the fjords in northern Europe. We also scuba dive and would like to anchor near some of the wrecks. Many of these are in deeper water and unlike the more popular Florida/Caribbean/etc dive destinations do not have mooring balls.

I spent a decade or more plying the waters of Lake Superior -- mostly the Canadian shores. There are tons of good anchorages along most of these shores (north and east). The US shores are generally tougher and fewer. This is why so many American friends would head north for their summer cruising.

I used both a mixed rode (in a previous boat), and full chain. I much prefer the full chain for security and holding power. But most of the anchorages we would use were not deep. Mostly under 40', and often under 20'.

[Jammer]

Thanks, Mike. We we be on the western end of the lake and in the Apostles, at least at first, due to commitments on shore in the Minneapolis area.