Expected Chain Lifespan

[PriscilaNienov]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Just been through this here in Hobart. Three year old PWM chain quite rusty in the parts that typically lie on the bottom (we live full time at anchor, save t he past three months where we've been in a marina). Time to regal... but the quote from the only galvanizaria in Tasmania was 5.60 AUD per kilo, plus shipping two ways to Launceston. Made buying new chain roughly equal in cost, so new chain on the way from the gold coast (at great expense, btw).

Not amused.

Being the only game in town leads to rapacious pricing. And it is ironic, for we are in a marina that is right next to a giant zinc smelting works!


Yotting is so fun...

Jim

Which shop from the Gold Coast? I’m in Syd and need new chain! Thanks

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by PriscilaNienov

Which shop from the Gold Coast? I’m in Syd and need new chain! Thanks

Priscilla, it was Muirs in Coomera:

T +61 (0) 7 5555 2222

M +61 (0) 400 390 081

E darren.warner@Muir.com.au

www.muir.com.au



15/75 Waterway Drive Coomera Qld 4209

Darren was friendly and helpful. This was the third time I've purchased chain through these guys. Each time I did the research they came out as the best deal. YMMV, but give Darren a call!

Jim

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Priscilla, it was Muirs in Coomera:

T +61 (0) 7 5555 2222

M +61 (0) 400 390 081

E darren.warner@Muir.com.au

www.muir.com.au



15/75 Waterway Drive Coomera Qld 4209

Darren was friendly and helpful. This was the third time I've purchased chain through these guys. Each time I did the research they came out as the best deal. YMMV, but give Darren a call!

Jim

Darren also has a store called Ozzi Marine

[Lepke]

In normal times, I anchor about 6 months, spending about a month in each place. I have 5/8" galvanized USA made. It will show some rust at the end of the first season. I usually touch it up with a torch and a stick of zinc. I get 10 years+ before I regalvanize. But I'm not picky.

When it needs regalvanizing, if you can schedule it when you're out of the water, I back my PU to the bow and lower the chain into the bed. I have to make 2 trips.

[sailcrazy]

Following. We bought new chain in Turkey (Marmaris) back in 2013, 100m, and have been using it ever since(that's some 9 years/seasons use in the Medd, and now 7 seasons in the Caribb-we did end-for end it once) . We anchor almost exclusively, and sail the season in the Caribb. I've noticed a little rust on the chain, but no pitting, no flaking, no "red" when the chain is in the water, and it still works perfectly in our gypsy. I'd consider regal if I could find a place in Puerto Rico or USVI, but it seems to be standing up pretty well.

[jt11791]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

I was with SV Delos when they got their chain back from Baltimore Galvanizing. We spent an hour or so smacking it with hammers to free up all the links....... They did an incredibly poor job.

I saw Delos's video and was prepared to so the same when taking in my chain, but as it turned out I had maybe 3 stuck links in 300 feet of chain. I don't know what the difference was, but my experience was much better.

[BillKny]

When you dive into chain a bit, you quickly discover there are two types of galvanizing.

Electrolytic (cheap, and thin)

OR

Hot dip. (expensive and thick)

It seems that the inexpensive chain, no matter what it's country of origin, is almost always electrolytically galvanized. This results in a thin, even, and smooth coating of zinc. Looks pretty, BUT... the operative word here is "THIN". For anchor chain it is, IMO, just not suitable. It is barely better than a a couple of coats of "cold galvanizing" from a spray can.

[BillKny]

Originally Posted by jt11791

I saw Delos's video and was prepared to so the same when taking in my chain, but as it turned out I had maybe 3 stuck links in 300 feet of chain. I don't know what the difference was, but my experience was much better.

Thank you everybody who recommended Baltimore Galvanizing. For 300 feet of 3/8 G4 chain plus a Mantus 105 lb anchor we paid US$350, including tax. Since the alternative was AT LEAST $1500 for new chain, we are very happy.

They did a good job. The zinc coating was thick and well adhered. We had fewer than a dozen spots where a few links were stuck together, but a quick whack with a hammer while loading the chain on board with the windlass and all was good.

The hot dipped coating is a lot rougher and thicker than the original electrogalvanized coating on our chain. The only downside to this is that it means the chain doesn't "flow" as well and piles up in higher cones in the chain locker. This isn't an issue for us, the bottom of our chain locker is about 4 feet below the exit of the chainpipe. But if you have a shallow chain locker, you might end up knocking castles over manually.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by BillKny

.



The hot dipped coating is a lot rougher and thicker than the original electrogalvanized coating on our chain. The only downside to this is that it means the chain doesn't "flow" as well and piles up in higher cones in the chain locker. This isn't an issue for us, the bottom of our chain locker is about 4 feet below the exit of the chainpipe. But if you have a shallow chain locker, you might end up knocking castles over manually.

That gets better with use.

If you have space and it's a problem, lay out maximum chain on the bottom, drag it around and it will smooth out on a sandy bottom

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Please send the $20,000 to do so to......

Chain is measured with digital micrometres and there is no evidence of size change, but there is something different going on, it gets the twisties but rest assured, size is the same .

And the used affected section, that is, the chain up to the snubber is condemned.
The chain after that had never been used so is unaffected.

No, the chain would not be measurably thinner at this degree of overload. Yes, the chain is being overloaded.



13 mm grade L has a WLL of 4500 pounds, which is right on the ABYC line for working anchors, but given the weight of your boat, too small. Perhaps a longer snubber would help, or better grade chain.


However, you are satisfied with a chain that has provided you with visible warning that it is being overloaded. It probably won't fail.

[BillKny]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

That gets better with use.

If you have space and it's a problem, lay out maximum chain on the bottom, drag it around and it will smooth out on a sandy bottom

I know, understand, and agree. For us this is not at all a problem. The little knobs, lumps, and spikes will wear off in short order.

In the meantime, we are enjoying having the shiniest chain around!

[BillKny]

Originally Posted by thinwater

It probably won't fail.

Oh, that makes me feel better... "PROBABLY won't fail." Not the way I run my boat. But to each his own.

If you prefer to "probably be OK", just anchor downwind from me, Please?

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by thinwater

No, the chain would not be measurably thinner at this degree of overload. Yes, the chain is being overloaded.

If there is no measurable difference how do you know?
13mm is 13mm

Originally Posted by thinwater

13 mm grade L has a WLL of 4500 pounds, which is right on the ABYC line for working anchors,

ABYC is but one rule and not used in Australia

but given the weight of your boat, too small. Perhaps a longer snubber would help, or better grade chain.

Evidence that it is too small
She was a working commercial trawler in a previous life, she had to pass survey.
I imagine chain size came into it?

As for snubber when we got her and, had that storm, the snubber was 25mm silver rope so little give
It was also a 180 degree wind shift so she had a 100m run up in80 knots before getting to the end of the chain, not a typical event.

Since then we have put a full drum of 20mm nylon on board and new snubbers are made every 2 years.

However, you are satisfied with a chain that has provided you with visible warning that it is being overloaded. It probably won't fail.

Did you miss the bit where I said that it was replaced?
It was in the same post that you actually quoted

Originally Posted by Simi 60

.
And the used affected section, that is, the chain up to the snubber is condemned.
The chain after that had never been used so is unaffected.

I do this every few years anyway as I consider chain to be a consumable.

[moseriw]

Originally Posted by thinwater
13 mm grade L has a WLL of 4500 pounds, which is right on the ABYC line for working anchors,

###################
I do not think this is correct.
I have seen a 10 mm chain wit 5600 kgs Max.Load that is 11.200 lbs.

[BillKny]

Originally Posted by moseriw

Originally Posted by thinwater
13 mm grade L has a WLL of 4500 pounds, which is right on the ABYC line for working anchors,

###################
I do not think this is correct.
I have seen a 10 mm chain wit 5600 kgs Max.Load that is 11.200 lbs.

Moseriw,

You seem to be confusing WLL (Working Load Limit) with Breaking Strength.

Breaking strength is the force required to pull a chain apart in laboratory testing. Steel chain would have stretched and been irreparably damaged at laods significantly before it actually fails.

Working Load Limit is the maximum force a new and undamaged chain should be exposed to in normal use. It is not a value that is actually tested, but rather is one calculated by taking the breaking strength and applying a standard safety factor. The size of the safety factor depends on the material of construction, the grade rating of the chain, and the use to which the chain is being put.

For the kind of chain usually used as anchor chain the safety factor is normally 33% of the breaking strength. A typical 10mm Grade 43 chain will have a breaking strength of 27,900 lbs and a working load limit of 9,200 lbs. Grade L chain is significantly weaker, in the 10 mm size it will have a breaking strength of 11,200 lbs (as you noted) but a WLL of 2800 lbs.

And to be VERY clear: The breaking strength is NOT the maximum load capacity of the chain. Any chain loaded above the WLL suhould be considered suspect.