ENO Cooktop not working

[com5984]

I have this cooktop ENO 4323 2 Burner Marine Built-In Cooktop in the boat I just purchased. I connect gas to it pressurise it and there is no flow, I disconnect and I can hear a release of pressure. I searched and discovered there is a safety aspect that will not allow the gas to flow if there is no flame. Also the igniter appears to be disconnected and without a battery, does this need to be connected for it to work? If you look at the photo you can see 2 blue wires with connectors on their ends, I'm assuming one goes to the igniter button but I can't figure out where the other one goes

[OldGreyB]

One blue wire normally goes to one side of the ignitor button. Then from the button an additional wire goes to the AA battery holder. The other blue wire goes to the second terminal of the battery holder.
Holding the button completes the circuit , you'll hear and see the spark at the hob.

Yes the stoves are designed to stop gas flow unless there is heat being generated at the pitzo sensor at the burner.

If you dont have the button or battery holder, they are available as seperate Eno parts at local chandlers. Or you can just buy for less $ a BBQ all in one replacement unit, or just use a long match.

[com5984]

Originally Posted by OldGreyB

One blue wire normally goes to one side of the ignitor button. Then from the button an additional wire goes to the AA battery holder. The other blue wire goes to the second terminal of the battery holder.
Holding the button completes the circuit , you'll hear and see the spark at the hob.

Thanks for replying, there must be a pin broken off the button as there is only one on it now. I've added some more photos, my electrical woes aside if I apply a flame to the spot where the igniter is on the burner should it work then?

[GordMay]

Don't confuse the (spark) igniter with the (flame failure) thermocouple.
The igniter is merely a convenient way to light the flame, but is not required, for the stove to work.
The safety thermocouple shuts off the gas supply, to the burners. if the flame goes out.

[Sailmonkey]

You bypass the thermocouple (flame failure device) by pushing in on the gas control knob. Once the burner is alight (use a match or other flame producer) hold the knob in for a 10 count, then let go. The flame should stay lit. If it doesn’t the thermocouple is likely bad.

[meirriba]

As already mentioned the electric start is a bonus, to easy the lighting up. Not required for the stove to work.
To ignite the stove you need to turn the flame governing black knob and press it in. The pressure on the button allows free flow of gas to the burner.
After lightning the burner, keep the pressure on the knob for several seconds. This allows the thermocouple to warm up and open the valve. You may let go of the knob after 5-10 seconds.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

You bypass the thermocouple (flame failure device) by pushing in on the gas control knob. Once the burner is alight (use a match or other flame producer) hold the knob in for a 10 count, then let go. The flame should stay lit. If it doesn’t the thermocouple is likely bad.

Or the thermocouple has inadvertently been moved to far from the burner.

[Dougtiff]

Gordmay has it correct, my Force 10 pitzo ignitor has been dead for year's, i use a barbecue wan to light the flame.

[com5984]

Thank you all, now I understand (always had electric appliances). So is the thermocoupler the one at the front?

[Sailmonkey]

Yes it is

[Jono as 2234]

I find the igniters pretty useless. I've never had one that worked for more than a few months. They get fat splatter then stop, even when cleaned. Best answer is a gas match. Put a neo mydium magnet on the stove side to hold the match handy. Can also use to heat shrink and fire up a stogie

[com5984]

Originally Posted by meirriba

As already mentioned the electric start is a bonus, to easy the lighting up. Not required for the stove to work.
To ignite the stove you need to turn the flame governing black knob and press it in. The pressure on the button allows free flow of gas to the burner.

The problem must be in the knob controls then, if I blow through the inlet pipe and hold the knob down I can feel that there is no flow.

[AussieCat]

Apart from the on / off valve on the gas bottle there will also be 2 stop cocks in the gas supply line just before the cook top & oven. These are usually located in a cupboard on the right or left hand side of the units. Follow the flexible hose back to the copper line and that's probably where you will find them. They are usually a white "T" switch which needs to be in turned in line with the pipe. Hope that helps.

[com5984]

Originally Posted by AussieCat

Apart from the on / off valve on the gas bottle there will also be 2 stop cocks in the gas supply line just before the cook top & oven. These are usually located in a cupboard on the right or left hand side of the units. Follow the flexible hose back to the copper line and that's probably where you will find them. They are usually a white "T" switch which needs to be in turned in line with the pipe. Hope that helps.

Thanks, I found one but didn't think there would be 2. I ended up taking the gas bottle and reg to the galley and hooking it straight into the cooktop.

[AussieCat]

Did it work OK? Usually 2 taps. One each for the oven and cooktop.