Boat Bikes -- Some Observations

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

Did you try swapping better materials?

The cables SS - shimano has available?

shifters don't know what is available in SS or Ti, but Ti nitrate coating at least?

chain SS is available - again shimano has

The rims too. Aluminum pretty 'standard' ?

.............

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

.............

We did the best we could, but exposed to the salt air, anything which can corrode, does. Brake alipers were also an issue. Everything on the bikes was Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed.

[estarzinger]

Just put a link here in case anyone is interested.

You can get a Ti nitrate coating on pretty much any steel part. There are shops which will do small lots, small pieces (done on individual gun parts for instance).

It is an excellent surface, quite hard, smooth, corrosion free, and thin (so usually does not effect fit).

BryCoat Titanium Nitride (TiN) Coatings

http://titaniumgun.com

[Dave22q]

Originally Posted by jheldatksuedu

[QUOTE
Continuing the thread drift : electric bikes are fascinating, but has anyone done a bike with a very light, very tiny internal combustion engine?

I rode from Arkansas to south Florida with weed eater powered bike, friction drive on the rear wheel. Home built.

Bike Kansas to Florida

I wore out a lot of tires. I'm looking for an alternative drive method, something with a clutch would be ideal, so the engine can be started by the motion of the bike, stop and pedal for a while and the start the engine when needed. I certainly don't need or want to stop the bike and pull a rope to start the engine.

Cannot recall name but one small vendor in Orange City Fl offered a kit- 50cc motor with lever arrangement to raise the motor off the wheel and remote throttle. You start the motor by building up speed then lowering the motor onto the wheel. I went gas because my very infrequent use meant a gallon would get too old and clog the carburetor long before I could use it up. You do get tire wear but not much unless you brake without lifting the motor first. I think it works better on standard bikes, mine was 20" folding Raleigh.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

With aluminum, carbon, titanium, ceramic (bearings) and stainless available . . . What part needs to be made from (rusting) carbon steel? Can't the whole thing be rust free?

Most of the cable ends, cable attachment hardware, the chain, the gears, and the "folding" related hardware and in fact almost all fasteners and any other piece that isn't the frame, stem, handlebars, etc. -- at least on ours -- are carbon steel.

Cain and gears are more easily addressed, these days... but the rest of the stuff is small bits and pieces...

-Chris

[jheldatksuedu]

Originally Posted by Dave22q

Cannot recall name but one small vendor in Orange City Fl offered a kit- 50cc motor with lever arrangement to raise the motor off the wheel and remote throttle. You start the motor by building up speed then lowering the motor onto the wheel. I went gas because my very infrequent use meant a gallon would get too old and clog the carburetor long before I could use it up. You do get tire wear but not much unless you brake without lifting the motor first. I think it works better on standard bikes, mine was 20" folding Raleigh.

That's exactly how mine worked, I probably went through 4 rear tires in 2000 miles. My bike was a 26 inch full size loaded down with front and rear panniers packs, camping equipment, laptop and everything else one needs to travel.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Yes. Cycling is the absolute superlative form of exercise in my opinion, if you do it right. It's the only form of exercise I know which can be done without pushing any single muscle into anaerobic mode. Get your cadence right, and if you have enough gears, and it's like flying. Or sailing.



I love it, and cycle at least 100 miles a week when I'm not at sea.

What are you all on about, and what's this cadence stuff.... I bet if I raced everyone in this thread who had mentioned cadence, I would be in the top 25% and biking is not my hobby. You don't need to know that stuff, it comes naturally to any sporty bike rider. It's like talking about counter steering on a motorbike, it's only important to those who can't really ride.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Fuss

What are you all on about, and what's this cadence stuff.... I bet if I raced everyone in this thread who had mentioned cadence, I would be in the top 25% and biking is not my hobby. You don't need to know that stuff, it comes naturally to any sporty bike rider. It's like talking about counter steering on a motorbike, it's only important to those who can't really ride.

If you do not know what this " cadence stuff " is all about, you probably couldn't ride for long with a bunch of old cyclists before you would drop out of the peloton from exhaustion ............

[newhaul]

My cadence is usualy between 45 and 55 lower and downshift below.30 in low I walk. And much above 60 in high I coast. ( 3 speed) and easily do 25 miles a day just for the exercise.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by newhaul

My cadence is usualy between 45 and 55 lower and downshift below.30 in low I walk. And much above 60 in high I coast. ( 3 speed) and easily do 25 miles a day just for the exercise.

I usually keep the cadence around 85-90 especially when I was riding with the bike racers and triathletes when I was in my early 50's. I'm still using my old Cateye Astrale 8 (wired) for cadence info

https://www.ebay.com/i/292109471352?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I'm still trying to hold to that now but it's taking me some time to get back into it at 60 plus.

To ride at speed and mx performance you have to keep the cadence at least above 80 rpm.

And your bike fit especially your seat height must be correct. Most of you guys have your seat/saddle height way too low

Btw, my best average was 22 mph for 66 miles in 2007 with hills on my ten speed Litespeed Vortex

Check here for bike fit /seat height etc. Go to bike fit

Wrench Science: Custom Bicycle Builder Online - Road, Mountain, Cyclocross, Track Parts

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by thomm225

I usually keep the cadence around 85-90 especially when I was riding with the bike racers and triathletes when I was in my early 50's. I'm still using my old Cateye Astrale 8 (wired) for cadence info

https://www.ebay.com/i/292109471352?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I'm still trying to hold to that now but it's taking me some time to get back into it at 60 plus.

To ride at speed and mx performance you have to keep the cadence at least above 80 rpm.

And your bike fit especially your seat height must be correct. Most of you guys have your seat/saddle height way too low

Btw, my best average was 22 mph for 66 miles in 2007 with hills on my ten speed Litespeed Vortex

Check here for bike fit /seat height etc. Go to bike fit

Wrench Science: Custom Bicycle Builder Online - Road, Mountain, Cyclocross, Track Parts

I am happy at my chosen cadences becides thats about as fast as my knee braces will tolerate. Becides im not out to race anymore that was when I was in my teens. On titanium frame bikes. Before the big wreck.

[Chris 249]

Thanks for the info about the SS chain, Estar - I'd never noticed them.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by newhaul

I am happy at my chosen cadences becides thats about as fast as my knee braces will tolerate. Becides im not out to race anymore that was when I was in my teens. On titanium frame bikes. Before the big wreck.

I've never raced bikes except when I was young ......teens and before, but I do believe in getting the most efficient setup on the bike and pedaling at a cadence that is also the easiest on my body and knees.

Cleats help also because then you get power on the up stroke as well as the down stroke

Seat height is very important for the knees also. To low is not good.

We have a new bridge here and I kept the cadence between 90-95 going up and over that thing about an hour ago. I was also trying to get over as quickly as possible due to the traffic and I didn't want to punish my knees and body a with a lower cadence

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by thomm225

I've never raced bikes except when I was young ......teens and before, but I do believe in getting the most efficient setup on the bike and pedaling at a cadence that is also the easiest on my body and knees.

Cleats help also because then you get power on the up stroke as well as the down stroke

Seat height is very important for the knees also. To low is not good.

We have a new bridge here and I kept the cadence between 90-95 going up and over that thing about an hour ago. I was also trying to get over as quickly as possible due to the traffic and I didn't want to punish my knees and body a with a lower cadence

Agreed on allmost all points . For me its not cleats its cages and slick pedals ( easier on my knees getting in and out )

[PuttingDoctor]

Originally Posted by newhaul

Agreed on allmost all points . For me its not cleats its cages and slick pedals ( easier on my knees getting in and out )

Newhaul, I hear ya. But as others have mentioned BIKE FIT is important for knee pressure AND as a former slower cadence rider let me say try it.

Find a level ride and make a pass with the same effort you normally do. Now come about and drop a gear and spin. It takes some getting used to but the effort is actually lower in higher cadences. Your knees may thank you.

That said you don't have to spin like you're riding in a race. Just lighten the load on your knees and translate it to the cardio system. You might be somewhat surprised as was I years ago when I made the switch.