Boat Bikes -- Some Observations

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by SecondBase

The weight comes from the high-end build quality and I wouldn't change a bit of the design except add a built in head-light. I kept it on the floating dock and so only folded and loaded it every few months.

Coffee runs, groceries, hills --and most of all parking in the most popular venues-- all become a pleasure. It easily extends your range to a 15 or 20 mile radius around the boat.

For me, the performance makes up for the weight.

Max out your visibility gear and take some time to really learn how to safely fly this airframe on public roads.

OK, noted. The thread is mostly about BOAT BIKES, not dock bikes, but it's still interesting. I have to fold and store my bike practically every time I use it, so that weight would not work for me.

Continuing the thread drift : electric bikes are fascinating, but has anyone done a bike with a very light, very tiny internal combustion engine? Lithium batteries have started to close the gap, but I believe power density of gasoline/petrol is still an order of magnitude greater, and surely there are small IC engines which are not heavier than electric motors of the same power?

[estarzinger]

^^ going into the shop this afternoon for a 2 hour 'fit' process . . . . and a bit of BSing about the tour and if Peter Sagan should really have been disqualified.

[Blue Crab]

Continuing the thread drift : electric bikes are fascinating, but has anyone done a bike with a very light, very tiny internal combustion engine? Lithium batteries have started to close the gap, but I believe power density of gasoline/petrol is still an order of magnitude greater, and surely there are small IC engines which are not heavier than electric motors of the same power?

They were common in my youth:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whizzer_(motorcycles)

[newhaul]

Here is one of th companies that make conversion kits .
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...67&cspheader=1

[estarzinger]

The 'Bike fit" process was interesting - had never done that before. We made quite a few adjustments from the stock bike dimensions. Related to some of the discussion above, one of the outcomes of the adjustments was to move my natural cadence up from 77 to 85 - had most to do with crank length but also some other dimensions.

Was interesting and 'nice' that in a lab setting they exactly agreed with my personal assessment of my efficient cadence (with the stock fit).

[jheldatksuedu]

[QUOTE
Continuing the thread drift : electric bikes are fascinating, but has anyone done a bike with a very light, very tiny internal combustion engine? [/QUOTE]

I rode from Arkansas to south Florida with weed eater powered bike, friction drive on the rear wheel. Home built.

Bike Kansas to Florida

I wore out a lot of tires. I'm looking for an alternative drive method, something with a clutch would be ideal, so the engine can be started by the motion of the bike, stop and pedal for a while and the start the engine when needed. I certainly don't need or want to stop the bike and pull a rope to start the engine.

I looked at the electric bike a page back, expensive but checked you can get a front drive electric wheel with all controls, basically everything but battery for about $150.

New 48V 1000W 26" Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Conversion eBike Kit Bike

I've already got a weed eater powered car alternator, but haven't played with it to see what kind of voltage I can get out of it. A friend gave it to me, and haven't got around to that yet. I've been planning on trying it with my trolling motor on my dinghy. Both of these ideas would be for extra long trips, not for ordinary everyday use. This wouldn't solve the pull the rope to start problem, but would solve the wearing out tires and you would have a clutch.

I probably would have 2 front wheels, one with the motor, one without. Assemble which ever one is needed for the days ride. I'll need to build this into my disassembling wheel, basically same tire and rim but different spokes and hub. Run off 4 small motorcycle batteries or the weed eater generator.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

^^ going into the shop this afternoon for a 2 hour 'fit' process . . . . and a bit of BSing about the tour and if Peter Sagan should really have been disqualified.

Cavendish was trying to squeeze through a gap which didn't exist. The French just want their guy to win for the first time in ?? years, so they eliminated the fellow who would have won the green jersey. Sagan, who also happens to be the world champ and five time winner of the green jersey. Now they'll probably still find a way to loose.

What... no Campy?

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

What... no Campy?

I know campy is really pretty, but I'v always been a Shimano guy, and always been happy, never let me down (yet).

Just ordered a set of titanium pedals (speedplay) for the bike

[Kenomac]

If you switch to Campy, you'll never buy Shimano again. Ergonomics, high quality Italian, plus you can repair Campy with small parts. All the wear parts are replaceable.

Shimano is throw away when it wears out. I used to ride 20,000km per year, Shimano wouldn't last. Many pro teams are on Shimano because they get it for free, plus the endorsment money. They change out the stuff constantly.

[estarzinger]

^^

mmmm . . . I'v never had to replace a shimano part. Guess I don't ride enough, only a third or quarter of your 20k.

[Chris 249]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

Cavendish was trying to squeeze through a gap which didn't exist. The French just want their guy to win for the first time in ?? years, so they eliminated the fellow who would have won the green jersey. Sagan, who also happens to be the world champ and five time winner of the green jersey. Now they'll probably still find a way to loose.

What... no Campy?

The French didn't disqualify him - it was a panel from the UCI, lead by a Belgian.

[Chris 249]

After that brief diversion - to repeat the question someone else asked, what can one do to stop a bike corroding? I've got no interest in a heavy e-bike and surely even a 20" folder is going to suffer the same corrosion issues as a 700mm bike packed into a bag?

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Chris 249

After that brief diversion - to repeat the question someone else asked, what can one do to stop a bike corroding? I've got no interest in a heavy e-bike and surely even a 20" folder is going to suffer the same corrosion issues as a 700mm bike packed into a bag?

Some thoughts on steps or stages toward that, maybe:

1) buy a bike with fewer (fewest?) corrosion-able (?) parts (belt, internal hub, alum, carbon, stainless, etc.)

2) replace as many carbon steel parts as possible with 316 stainless (but that can maybe introduce corrosion from dissimilar metals in contact with each other)

3) spray remaining corrosion-prone parts with Boeshield T9 or CRC 656 or similar

4) bag it

5) carry the bag in internal spaces (saloon, lazarette, etc.), not on deck

6) replace rusting parts when necessary (time probably varies for individual users); might suggest obtaining a spare parts bag, upfront, from the maker

7) use the bike enough to make all that worthwhile...

???

-Chris

[estarzinger]

With aluminum, carbon, titanium, ceramic (bearings) and stainless available . . . What part needs to be made from (rusting) carbon steel? Can't the whole thing be rust free?

Or put tI nitrate plating (like that gold surface on some drill bits) on carbon steel parts. (I'v done that on some other boat parts)

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

With aluminum, carbon, titanium, ceramic (bearings) and stainless available . . . What part needs to be made from (rusting) carbon steel? Can't the whole thing be rust free?

Or put tI nitrate plating (like that gold surface on some drill bits) on carbon steel parts. (I'v done that on some other boat parts)

The cables, shifters and chain are the biggest problem which suffer most. The rims too.

We tried keeping a couple of aluminum Cervelo road bikes on our Hunter in Southern California with limited success.