Replacing Standing Rigging - Going From Swagged To Swag-less Fittings

[chowdan]

My standing rigging is 7/32 wire size. I'm going to be replacing the standing rigging over the course of the next few months, however, I'm planning to use swag-less fittings due to convenience.

Since I'm going from swagged to swag-less, I assume I can reuse the turnbuckles and the lower threaded stud?

Also, how do you determine which way the threading should be(left or right)? I see defender has a sale going on for the boat show">Miami boat show, so this might be the time to buy the 8 swag-less studs

Thanks!

[roverhi]

Stud fittings are threaded for what is necessary for the threads on a turnbuckle. There must be a convention that the manufacturers adhere to. Would have to go down to the boat to verify whether it's left or right hand thread. When I redid the rigging just bought Norsemen stud terminals on line without a problem. Mechanical terminals like Norseman, StaLok, and Hayn all work. Good idea getting rid of the swaged fittings, never have trusted them.

[Paul Annapolis]

If you are going to the work and the expense of replacing rigging DO IT ALL with the possible exception of chainplates which have been exposed to oxygen and have been polished and are in good shape after being inspected. As for turnbuckles--are you being penny wise and pound foolish? Check everything and replace it all if there is any question.

[david samuelson]

All swageless studs I have seen are right-hand thread. The 'norm' on turnbuckles is RH thread for the wire and LH for the toggle, using UNF threads. There are few exceptions (some French are LH for the wire and RH for Toggle with metric thread).

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by david samuelson

All swageless studs I have seen are right-hand thread. The 'norm' on turnbuckles is RH thread for the wire and LH for the toggle, using UNF threads. There are few exceptions (some French are LH for the wire and RH for Toggle with metric thread).

Thanks for that!

How do you determine that its a RH thread? I can't find any resource regarding it.

Is it the way the buckle turns? Do you look at the thread itself on the stud?

I know this is a completely idiot thread, I've always thought of it as "righty tighty" = right hand thread. But the main reason for me asking is because Ill be throwing down close to $700 or more on replacing fittings and I dont want to have a "oopsy" mistake.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by Paul Annapolis

If you are going to the work and the expense of replacing rigging DO IT ALL with the possible exception of chainplates which have been exposed to oxygen and have been polished and are in good shape after being inspected. As for turnbuckles--are you being penny wise and pound foolish? Check everything and replace it all if there is any question.

I've already replaced the chainplates. They were the first to go. Replacing the fittings to swagless ones will cost me atleast 700 alone in just fittings(including the buckles and such).

On top of that $700, ill be spending around $500 on wiring, which means this is going to be a SLOW process for me considering I dont have $1200 just laying around.

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by chowdan

Thanks for that!

How do you determine that its a RH thread? I can't find any resource regarding it.

Is it the way the buckle turns? Do you look at the thread itself on the stud?

I know this is a completely idiot thread, I've always thought of it as "righty tighty" = right hand thread. But the main reason for me asking is because Ill be throwing down close to $700 or more on replacing fittings and I dont want to have a "oopsy" mistake.

Looking along the axis of the (bolt/stud/whatever), if you turn the (nut/turnbuckle/whatever) clockwise and it moves away from you, its RH.