Looking for mast hardware

[jimjimmyjimjim]

I am looking for a gooseneck for my main boom. My boat is a 42' Formosa Ketch with wooden masts. I attached a picture with dimensions below. The width of the part of the gooseneck which fits between the "ears" of the bracket on the boom itself is 1-1/2". The holes for the vertical and horizontal bolts are 1/2" except for the reefing holes which are 1/4". All measurements are approximate. I'd prefer a bronze part but I'll settle for a stainless one. I'm currently in Oregon.

I've tried Rigrit and salvage yards but so far I haven't found the right part.

I am in the market for a lot of deck hardware - cleats, winches, travelers, mizzen hardware, etc. - so if you have other parts let me know.

I think I posted for this once before but life got in the way and I had to put the project on hold. I'm now resuming the work and I'm down to the rigging parts.

[psk125]

Would a SS fabricator or machine shop be able to weld you up something hefty with the right dimensions? That might be the fastest and most cost-effective way to go.

[hlev00]

Take a trip to Port Townsend WA and poke around. There are so many shipwrights and boat builders around there that I would expect someone to be able to point you in a good direction. Someone could probably cast you a new bronze part if needed. For one - https://ptshipwrights.com/

[Bowdrie]

Contact "Minneys Yacht Surplus" in Newport Beach, Ca.

[BenBowSirocco]

Its hard to tell without holding the part, but it looks like that original may have been investment cast.

I imagine two ways forward:

Send the part to a 3D designer who will reverse engineer it for you and then have the part CNC machined from billet: send cut send, or xeometry are likely the most affordable solutions for that. But you might have a good mold maker, or local machine ship with the right equipment.

As a second variation on the first, after you have it modeled, you could have it 3D printed and re-cast. Then the holes machined after.

Second option would be to hire a talented fabricator and be prepared to pay them handsomely for the many hours needed to make up a comparable part in stainless.

Perhaps a 3rd option: you could sand the entire part clean and smooth and then dye test it (weld dye), or have it x-ray for cracking. If its a serviceable part, have it electropolished (stainless only) or polished and move on with life.. It might not work, but if it does, this is definitely the most affordable option.

If the part is currently a copper based alloy, then it doesnt work harden like stainless and sanding smooth and crack testing is a great place to start.

[Bowdrie]

Do you have the rest of the parts that your fitting goes on?
Most all of the multiple hundreds of, "Bill Garden, et all" ketches from Tiawan used those fittings.
If that fitting of yours really went on the main mast it was most likely mounted to a "sliding car" that slid up/down on a track that was fastened to the mast, the sliding car being used as a downhaul.
However, that part looks way too small to have been a mainsail gooseneck on a 46/47' ketch of that era.
I can't imagine a 1/4" hole for a tack fitting on that size boat.

[Spot]

My guess is that it was cast as traditional sandcasting with a core to separate the wings and then drilled for all the holes in the tabs and wings. Recreating this as a lost foam casting would be relatively straight forward and could include the holes. Investment would work too (3D print and burnout) but the inside of this one shown does not seem investment quality.

Weight the part and ask your local bronze foundry what it would take to cast the part, with and without you making the patterns and go from there. I learned to make patterns and cast aluminum to make an occasional masthead or cleat to fix our old day sailors. Stuff like cleats can be molded from the originals using a follow board if you can tolerate a small percent change in size.

[jimjimmyjimjim]

Thanks for all the replies.
I have explored the fabrication option, but the cost is very high and my experience with fabricators in my area has been less than idle. If I can find one new or surplus I'd rather go that route. If not I will have to have one fabricated.

The piece I have is definitely cracked in several places and those cracks go through the entire piece. Many are in high stress areas so I would never trust it in the weather.

I may have to go to Washington and check out the yards up there. But most are at least 5 hours away. So, I figured I try this option first.

Again, thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

[Spot]

PS Here is a video of lost foam work done on a sailboat part. He surprised me both with the tutorial ( for his followers) and the part (which he sent me). He elected to use a non-CNC approach so the equipment outlay is next to nothing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O182iBLH14A

[Don C L]

You might try giving Ballenger down here in California a call. They are really helpful and might be able to direct you to a source close to you.
https://www.ballengerspars.com/

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by jimjimmyjimjim

Thanks for all the replies.
Again, thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

Many of those boats have had their wooden masts replaced with aluminum over the years.
Ring-up "Minneys", talk to a human being, send them a picture.
It wouldn't surprise me if they had more than one of the kind of part you're looking for.