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Heath68 · 19-09-2023, 22:23

As a new boat owner I am starting to feel that I am.too heavy handed for stuff on a boat. My boat is 20 years old so I am expecting these are not originals as I have already had to replace one of the Jabsco toilet Y valve as the handle just snapped off whilst I was tryingbtonturn it, now it has happened again!

So I am really not impressed with Jabsco, plus at £88 they are far from the cheapest. I have seen alternative makes such as Whale @ £80 or Trudesign @ £60 and I have even seen a basic looking but seemingly robust one at £20. But I don't want to keep handing out on the most expensive item if its no better than others.

Has anyone any experience with these items? or know what the failure rates of them are? I don't know if they are an item that needs servicing (open up and put in a bit of WD40 every now and then)? Has anyone replaced them with metal ones (if there is such a thing)?

Any comments and advice would be great as I don't want to keep just going round in circles replacing then because the handle snapped off again.

Cheers

krid2000 · 19-09-2023, 23:42

I have installed a Sea-Lect Y-valve, works well. Needs grease once per season.

HTH
Dirk

Tin Tin · 20-09-2023, 00:11

A metal 3 way valve by Groco would be difficult to break, see also https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...under-pressure

HeywoodJ · 20-09-2023, 07:38

We have had the TruDesign for about 6 years. I suspect you will find the handle not very solid as well. Have not broken it, but have felt it bend under my hands. The plus side is that the valve is very easy to service, so it gets cleaned and greased relatively regularly. If it does calcify in any way it will not move (which is when I feel the handle bend) and no point in trying too hard since I am certain the handle would break off.

I'd give it a 3 out of 5 for ease of service, but not particularly strong. Also have to explain the labeling to every person who inspects, not intuitive.

Cheechako · 20-09-2023, 08:45

Any plastic ones Ihad were very difficult to turn and easy to break. To end the issue permanently buy a bronze 3 way valve. Not a cheap solution though in large size like that.

Another option is to have waste go straight to a thru hull exit seacock. Install a T or Y fitting (not a valve) that feeds the holding tank. When you close the seacock the waste is forced to the holding tank. No Y valve to buy or operate.
A lot depends on the room available, water levels and tank location of course.

Antares · 20-09-2023, 08:53

A consideration is which valve design aligns best with the hose routing. I like the Whale valves if the hose layout works. With any it is important to turn the valves regularly. Letting them stay too long in one position allows stuff to build up and then any of them are difficult to operate.

CaptTom · 20-09-2023, 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Another option is to have waste go straight to a thru hull exit seacock...

Or straight to the holding tank. On the outlet of the holding tank, which will be on the side at the bottom of the tank, put a 90-degree PVC elbow. Run a PVC pipe from this up to a "T" just above the top of the tank. One side of the T goes to the macerator, which sits on top of the tank. The other side goes straight up to the deck pump-out fitting.

No Y valve needed. You have the choice to discharge via the macerator, or use a pumpout station. There's no flexible hose below the level of the tank to get permeated and stink. And if the macerator fails, it's above the waste water and easy to replace.

Bowdrie · 20-09-2023, 13:03

Depending upon the lay out of the hoses, (or if redoing things,) you can sometimes get a better operating system by simply getting a couple of ball valves and some pipe fittings and make your own setup, where placement and ease of operation fit your needs.
Having three big hoses coming together at angles to each other often uses up a lot more real estate than something where you can control the hose runs.

Heath68 · 21-09-2023, 04:53

Well plenty of options there, thanks to all who suggested. I didn't get an alert that anyone had responded yet so I didn't look til now.
I do seem to have plenty of space so I think a few of those options are definitely worth considering.. I think my main issue is that I didn't know they had to be serviced or greased etc. I will try and do this with the others.

I've already used up 1 maceration pump as well, even though we don't put anything down that shouldn't (we have bidet heads). I will definitely have a think about the system. Thanks once again

Heath68 · 21-09-2023, 04:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Any plastic ones Ihad were very difficult to turn and easy to break. To end the issue permanently buy a bronze 3 way valve. Not a cheap solution though in large size like that.

Another option is to have waste go straight to a thru hull exit seacock. Install a T or Y fitting (not a valve) that feeds the holding tank. When you close the seacock the waste is forced to the holding tank. No Y valve to buy or operate.
A lot depends on the room available, water levels and tank location of course.

Do you know a make?