When Ideal is not ideal - Cheap source of good hose clamps?

[The Way]

Originally Posted by deblen

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/clamps.html

Use 2 clamps with a bolt facing each way on each joint.
Cheers/ Len

I've often read this advice (screws should point in opposite directions on the 2 clamps), but never seen an explanation. Does anyone know the reason for this?

Thanks,
Jack

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by The Way

I've often read this advice (screws should point in opposite directions on the 2 clamps), but never seen an explanation. Does anyone know the reason for this?

Thanks,
Jack

It's so it takes 5x as long to replace or remove the clamps ... especially when the location is extremely uncomfortable... Both access and blistering heat...

+1 on McMaster or submersible plumbing sources...

[The Way]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

It's so it takes 5x as long to replace or remove the clamps ... especially when the location is extremely uncomfortable... Both access and blistering heat...

MdR -- yeah, that's been my experience too! Which is why I wonder what the upside is.

BTW, you forgot about poking yourself in the eye with the screwdriver!

Thanks,
Jack

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by The Way

I've often read this advice (screws should point in opposite directions on the 2 clamps), but never seen an explanation. Does anyone know the reason for this?

Thanks,
Jack

I believe it's to equalize out the tightening, if you believe that a hose has some give and friction between the hose and the clamp, then the part of the hose on the screw side is tighter.

Does it matter, I think not, it's more of a workmanship pride in "doing things right" like keeping the engine room as clean or cleaner than the Galley.
The nut drivers will make you life much easier though, and if you just won't use them, at least get clamps that will accept a Phillips screw driver, straight slot screws ought to be illegal, I hate the things.

[Zach]

I use these:

Scandvik Marine Inc. - list


Scandvik ABA in 316 grade... Paxton stocks them on the east coast, so they should be attainable from Florida to Virginia from anyone that has one of their books laying around.

Cheers,

Zach

[The Way]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I believe it's to equalize out the tightening, if you believe that a hose has some give and friction between the hose and the clamp, then the part of the hose on the screw side is tighter.

Does it matter, I think not, it's more of a workmanship pride in "doing things right" like keeping the engine room as clean or cleaner than the Galley.
The nut drivers will make you life much easier though, and if you just won't use them, at least get clamps that will accept a Phillips screw driver, straight slot screws ought to be illegal, I hate the things.

Thanks, pilot, that makes sense.

+1 about the slotted screws! But I've never seen a clamp with a Phillips screw. I just struggle along with a nut-driver and use a screwdriver for final tightening.

Jack

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by The Way

MdR -- yeah, that's been my experience too! Which is why I wonder what the upside is.

BTW, you forgot about poking yourself in the eye with the screwdriver!

Thanks,
Jack

I also guess than none of needed to mention the mandatory dropping of the driver when the handle end is being use opposite of you...

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I believe it's to equalize out the tightening, if you believe that a hose has some give and friction between the hose and the clamp, then the part of the hose on the screw side is tighter.

Does it matter, I think not, it's more of a workmanship pride in "doing things right" like keeping the engine room as clean or cleaner than the Galley.
The nut drivers will make you life much easier though, and if you just won't use them, at least get clamps that will accept a Phillips screw driver, straight slot screws ought to be illegal, I hate the things.

It's just the way I've always done it... Somebody taught me at some point I suppose...

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I believe it's to equalize out the tightening ...

A non-perforated (embossed) hose clamp (AWAB, ABA, Ideal, & Norma) translates the torque applied to the worm gear into a clamping force that is equally distributed around the circumference of the band.
Inexpensive hose clamps have bands with stamped-out slots, the edges of which dig in and drag against the hose, holding that part of the band in place — while the non-perforated edge of the band moves more easily, so it’s pulled in more. This results in less clamping force under the slots and too much where the band is smooth.

[The Way]

Originally Posted by GordMay

A non-perforated (embossed) hose clamp (AWAB, ABA, Ideal, & Norma) translates the torque applied to the worm gear into a clamping force that is equally distributed around the circumference of the band.
Inexpensive hose clamps have bands with stamped-out slots, the edges of which dig in and drag against the hose, holding that part of the band in place — while the non-perforated edge of the band moves more easily, so it’s pulled in more. This results in less clamping force under the slots and too much where the band is smooth.

Gord, thanks for this. What's the source? Sounds as if there might be more useful info where that came from.

Anyone know why embossed clamps should be more expensive? It would seem cheaper to do than making slots. (Or maybe this is getting too far from the thread topic.)

Jack