Sewage Spill Bilge Cleanup

[DoubleD]

This post is about cleaning the bilge, especially inaccessible areas, not repairing the plumbing. I had a catastrophic failure of my head plumbing, such that freshly deposited excrement spilled into the bilge in the forepeak between the holding tank and head, plus drained down the bilge under the floor about 6’ to the sump behind the mast. The area between the forepeak and the sump is not accessible via floorboards. Somehow I need to flush and clean this inaccessible area. I can scrub some at each end with long handled scrubbers, but only up to the next stringer. My thought is to use our marina’s portable pump out unit which the hose will reach the sump via the forward hatch. I would then use fresh water, plus some cleaning fluid (?) to flush from the forepeak to the sump and suck this up with the pump out system. Peg Hall in one of her reply posts mentions Raritan C.P. to remove the odor from sanitation hoses, but I’m not sure if this would work for flushing the bilge. There are lots of posts regarding cleaning bilges, but I didn’t see one regarding cleaning up of excrement.

Thanks,
DD

[sailingharry]

Not a fun situation!

The one comment I would make is that "solids" are not particularly solid. If you can get a fair amount of water flow, everything will break apart and easily flow to the bilge. The more and higher powered water sources you have, the more luck you will have with this.

[Chotu]

When this happened to me on my old charter boat with other peoples excrement which is even worse, I used copious water, soap and water and a shop vac.

A little bit of bleach mixed in wouldn’t hurt either. But just make sure that the cleaning water follows the same path that the explosion followed to begin with.

Just keep on flushing it and flushing it and diluting it.

Eventually it will go away

[DoubleD]

Originally Posted by Chotu

When this happened to me on my old charter boat with other peoples excrement which is even worse, I used copious water, soap and water and a shop vac.

A little bit of bleach mixed in wouldn’t hurt either. But just make sure that the cleaning water follows the same path that the explosion followed to begin with.

Just keep on flushing it and flushing it and diluting it.

Eventually it will go away

My dock neighbor’s comment was “dilution is the solution”. I’ve always worked hard keeping water out of the boat, so pouring water in just feels wrong. But likely the right thing to do.

DD

[Pete7]

Can you reach in there with a pressure washer with a soap fitting?

I have used bilgex or something, from the UK chandlers on a previous boat that leaked diesel and oil from an old Ford Dover engine. Bilgex did a superb job if left for a while whilst the boat was being used, eg bounced around, then pumped out. The boat was trailable so able to take it home to do this then finish off with the pressure washer and liquid laundry soap in a bucket of very hot water tipped in for good measure.

Pete

[JPA Cate]

First, let me say I am sorry this happened to you. It isn't going to be fun, but be glad it is not horrible poison, but a natural product, and the sort of thing Mom's do for sick babies all the time.

I would add bleach to the cleaning water if the Raritan product is not recommended for this application. Anything to do with excrement, it will kill the bacteria. I agree with Pete7 about using hot water, it will make a difference, and whatever water pressure you can deliver, to get it all to the lowest point, from which it can be sucked out. It will probably take more than one effort, to be sure the whole area is clean and sanitized.

Incidentally, you could make openings in the floorboards, with access hatches, if you think you might want to be able to inspect that area conveniently. You would need to reinforce the edges with stringers, and install flush latches.

Today's misfortune is tomorrow's adventure, but you won't dine out on this one!

Ann

[SV Confianza]

Another vote for adding a little bleach and flushing with tons of water. And get to it quick before the smells start to set into things. We've been in the same spot before...

[peghall]

Before you start, buy a gallon of PureAyre, available from Amazon, pet supply stores or directly from the company. Any version will work equally well. I’d also buy a good quality 1 gallon garden pump sprayer jug (you COULD use a trigger sprayer, but your hand will get very tired). When used as directed, PureAyre will completely eliminate the odor....the only product I've found that will.

DIRECTIONS
You cannot eliminate any odor unless you first eliminate the source of that odor! So first you must clean up the spill--the entire bilge completely, using only detergent and water, NO bleach!! Dawn Ultra dish washing liquid is a good choice of detergent. Be sure to clean every surface, nook and cranny in the affected area. If you don't own a power washer, try to borrow one because it can reach places you can't by hand, even with a long handle brush. If you can't borrow one, they aren't expensive and prob'ly on sale this time of year. It's a tool worth owning because it can come in handy for all kinds of jobs.

After you’re sure you’ve cleaned up every bit of the spill--the entire bilge--with plenty of detergent and water, remove all the excess water with a shop vac, sponge and bucket, whatever works. When everything is pretty much dry--no more than just damp--lightly coat every surface, nook and cranny in the affected area with undiluted PureAyre. DO NOT RINSE! Just let it dry, leaving all hatches open--even turn a fan on if you can--for at least 24 hours. If you still have any odor, you missed a spot.

You can also use PureAyre to eliminate residual odors left in lockers by permeated hoses after you’ve replaced them...remember to clean first! If cushions or other soft goods were affected, clean them and then saturate (not dripping wet…just enough sprayed into the foam from both sides to penetrate to the middle of the cushion) with PureAyre., then leave outside in the sunshine to dry all day.

And by the way, PureAyre is safe for use around children and pets...and food. So it’s also the best way to get rid of residual odors (the meat that spoiled when the power to the fridge died, the sandwiches you forgot to take out of the cooler) in bait boxes, iceboxes, musty wet lockers and anywhere else that stinks. It’s also the only product I’ve found that eliminates diesel odors—after you’ve cleaned up THAT spill!

Any questions? I'll be glad to answer 'em.

--Peggie

[peghall]

Pete, I wouldn't use the "soap" reservoir and fitting...it dilutes the "soap" too much. And as for the soap, use the strongest grease cutting dish washing detergent. Here is the US, that would be Dawn Ultra.


--Peggie

[rslifkin]

Regardless of how you clean it up, I'm of the opinion that the bilge should be cleaned with bleach after the spill is otherwise taken care of. This is to ensure any lingering sewage bacteria are removed for safety's sake.

[JPA Cate]

No, clean is clean. It shall have been mechanically removed.

Peggy knows more about this stuff than I do, anyway, and I would trust my bile's welfare to her maintenance standards. Besides, bleach is not so good for the environment.....

I would think the OP would be wise to glove up, though, for the process. That way his skin will be protected in case there are any little nicks or cuts.

Ann

[Jammer]

Turn off bilge pump. Fill your water tanks. Rinse the bilge using water from ashore leaving the rinsate in the bilge. Go offshore to where you can legally and responsibly pump effluent overboard and turn pumps on. Spray water from your tanks to get the worst of it out while continuing to pump the bilge overboard.

After that any residual material will be de minimis and can be cleaned and flushed accordingly following the advice upthread.


It's just ****. It's not like it's something really dangerous or problematic.

[peghall]

Thanks for your vote of confidence in my advice, Ann...and I second your suggestion to use gloves.
Apart from any environmental concerns, valid though they be...bleach is corrosive and damaging to rubber, which is the reason toilet mfrs warn against its use--along with household chemical bowl cleaners--in sanitation systems.


--Peggie

[peghall]

The one comment I would make is that "solids" are not particularly solid

Nope...in fact, solid waste is actually 75% water. So "dilution is the solution" works here just as it does in municipal sewage treatment



----Peggie

[rslifkin]

I certainly wouldn't recommend putting bleach through any of the head systems. For environmental concerns, disinfecting the bilge doesn't require dumping tons of bleach in the bilge. If you've got sufficient access, a simple wipe down with bleach water and allowing it to dry should do the trick once the rest of the cleaning is done.