more Frigoboat fridge problems

[sv.antea]

Richard, thanks, you keep talking about a keel cooler. No keel cooler here, mine is air cooled. Also, I am in Tampa, Florida, it's super hot here. My airconditioning is not working this summer either, but that's another story. There would be no problem raising the temperatur in the ice box to 100degF. Not far to go, lol. Good info about the pump specs, I'll shop. You are great help.

[Anna Sail]

You have a moisture blockage, your trials have confirmed that. Your control module has nothing to do with the condition of your refrigerant, any more than your Guardian, which allows your to manually control the speed of the compressor, incorporates a digital thermostat, and has a LED compressor fault indicator light.

As Richard suggests, a deep vacuum (triple evacuation ) is necessary, no 4-5 hour single evac without a nitrogen teaser will do the job. Even the deep vacuum may not be successful at removing all the water molecules, but if you have the resources available it's worth a try. Ultimately, replacing the evaporator and installing a filter drier is your best bet. All components come pre-charged and are plug-and-play. I would not suggest replacing your whole system, that is a bit extreme since the compressor/control module/Guardian are doing their jobs.

I'm surprised that you've gone to CoastalClimateControl.com or Veco-na.com to download Frigoboat troubleshooting information, but not asked either of them for further clarifications or assistance, or at least you don't mention you've done this.

Now, your need to defrost your box every two or so months is about warm air getting in and condensing on the plate - perhaps your seals need replacing or a drain hole needs plugging. This has nothing to do with refrigerant level or the refrigeration equipment itself.

I hope this helps. You are wise to look beyond the electronics.

[sv.antea]

Yup, I have eliminated the module problem early on, I did well in themodynamics and fluid dynamics in my engineering schoold days, but where my ignorance really hurt me was that I had hard time imagining that a positive displacement compressor would draw less current when pumping fluid into a dead block. When your head plugs up, it's harder to pump, not easier. I now know that is exactly the case, though I am not sure why. Not a positive displacement? Bypass? Just for hoots, can anyone explain that?
My friend with the vac pump and gauges is not showing up and besides his plan of attack have been nixed here several times. So, I am buying a vac pump, Robinaire15150, I will study lot more and attempt it myself.
Anna Sail, thank you and please elaborate. Tripple evacuation? Nitrogen? I have found the filter/dryer for sale and it has those couplers, but it looks like my Frigoboat Capri35 already came with one of those. At least it looks like one. Somewhere I read it is not good to have two of those in series...
Stan

[Anna Sail]

The triple evacuation is briefly explained in the "Capillary Tube Troubleshooting Guide" found at CoastalClimateControl.com/Refrigeration/Troubleshooting, a short link to that page is below.

Troubleshooting | Refrigeration | Marine | Boat | Coastal Climate Control

The filter-drier, like most Frigoboat components, comes pre-charged with R134a and has the quick disconnect fittings attached and is installed on the suction side of the system, between the compressor and evaporator plate. You can see it in their catalog under Refrigeration/Frigoboat/Refrigeration Accessories.

[Richard Kollmann]

Anna Sail, Did you ever see any other type of refrigeration system where the filter dryer intended to protect capillary tube was installed in the low pressure side of the system? The only time I know of where a filter dryer is placed in low pressure line is after the first compressor failed. Repeated filter changes might absorb moisture and even acid sludge caused by moisture but did you check the cost of that pre charged filter assembly.

[Pelagic]

I recently received this alert from another manufacturer..... Perhaps it may have some bearing on some problems...


"Recently we have noticed that there can be some ‘clotting’ of R134a gas. We have tried gas several suppliers with the same result.

There is only a remote chance that this can be a nuisance but still is possible.

I would suggest fitting a model 032 flared ¼” solid core dryer to each system as this would prevent the possibility. The systems already have a filter dryer internally."

[sv.antea]

I have ordered a pump, freon and fill hose, but I had no luck finding suitable set up for nitrogen flushing. Is dry nitrogen only available in large bottles for profesional HVAC work? Nothing for a do-it-yourselfer?
Another question: Will I need some kind of adapter to connect the pump and the fill hose to the Frigoboat Danfoss system? I coppied this description somewhere:
"a male disconnect fitting that will couple to tap-a-can hose fitting with a standard ¼ female flare inside to convert the Frigoboat compressor servicing fitting to accept the 134a refrigerant standard."
What is it called and where can I buy it?
Thanks

[sv.antea]

OK, took me a while, but I finally re commisioned the rapaired Frigiboat 35 fridge. There were several big project to complete made easy by the removal of the fridge componenets.
Replaced the o-rings in the couplers (three each), the low side couplers apparently being the culprit that let the air and moisture in. The threadded part that is supposed to be tight and LocTited was neither, there was an oil slick around the assembly as well. Didn't get gauges, just a vacuum pump and a hose with a shut off valve on the high test point and freon fill kit attached to the low side. Put a small heater in the icebox, fidling with the thermostat untill I got the temperature in the box keep at 100 degrees F. The condensing unit I kept a the same temperature with a heat lamp, checking with one of those pistol digital thermometers.
Two stage, low volume vacuum pump was on for 8 hours before I turned of the heat, another hour before I shut off valve and let some freon in (until the pressure equalised). I turned the compressor on after that, adding a touch of freon every couple of minutes untill I got a steady hiss at the expansion point. When the hiss became intermittent, I have added few more sqirts of freon untill it got steady. Few hours later the empty icebox was down to 40F and it just happened that most of the evaporator was frosted over.
Guess I was lucky with the amount of freon I installed. When I loaded the fridge up with groceries today, the fridge ran steady for about 40 minutes before cycling off. At that point, there was some frost for few inches down the (coax) tubing exiting the evaporator. Sounds about right, no? Or should I fine-tune the freon content? How?

[Richard Kollmann]

SV antea, The first days run is not of much value in determining refrigerant volume and flow. Let refrigeration operate at least 24 hours cycling on thermostat. If after a day running evaporator has frost covering at least 90% of its surface area and no frost outside refrigerator on return line do not add any more refrigerant. These capillary tube small systems are always more efficient when slightly under charged. After unit runs for a week with no loss of refrigerant frost coverage will not change confirming no leak in high pressure side of system. Next leak test low pressure side by turning system off for a week so that complete system pressure will reach 60 to 80 psi depending how warm the weather heats the refrigerant. Final test is to restart and let evaporator frost cover return to your first test level.